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Knowing where the soffit stops and epdm

Discussion in 'Roofing and Guttering' started by Bowlzi, 15 Aug 2017.

  1. Bowlzi

    Bowlzi

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    Im further on now and wondering where the lead should go. Is there any chance of water getting under the lead or between the lead and the EPDM?
    Was thinking lead type saddle behind fascia and on top of full tile and then stick epdm to lead...
    Thanks
     

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  2. catlad

    catlad

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    I suggest using some 6x1" rough sawn timber as your fascia board' not
    a baton.
    You can clad it in pvc. afterwards.
     
  3. Bowlzi

    Bowlzi

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    Thanks but its done already from 3x2 the bits you saw in the other picture was to bring it in to nearer the ridge. Looks worse than it is...

    Can you offer any advice on where to flash or cut rubber?

    Thanks
     

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  4. chappers

    chappers

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    you need to run all your tiles up the pitched roof with soakers right to the top and then cut a lead saddle which will either cover the top set of soakers so that you can leave the angled cut of the fascia a way from the pitched tiles slightly or send the fascia right into the pitched tiles and cut a saddle that goes from just over the flat roof and comes down over the top of the fascia at an angle cut back towards the pitched roof (so water can't run behind it and onto the flat of the pitched tiles.
    then you can fix your arris rail onto the flat roof and fit your edpm and flat roof verge pieces
     
  5. Bowlzi

    Bowlzi

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    I prefer the sound of your first option of lead over soakers but as the distance of overhang from the cheek sheathing to the fascia is 150mm I assume I would need to bring the lead between the top of the actual flat roof ply and the added fascia top ply. So the lead would come up through a thin slot. Am I mis understanding your description?

    Also the arris rail looks like it is built into the Epdm trim supplied and sits over the top of the epdm. Is that still ok in this situation?

    Thanks
     

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  6. Bowlzi

    Bowlzi

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    Should the rubber that comes onto the pitched roof be covered by the last tile or top/eaves tile to prevent water getting under. There isn't going to be room for a top/eaves tile on the flat roof part as it is up quite high.
     
  7. Bowlzi

    Bowlzi

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    In an attempt to clarify, I've drawn some pictures of what I think I have and where I'm unsure of the cutting and joining of rubber plus position of lead saddle.
    Thanks
     

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  8. chappers

    chappers

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    yep I think you have most of it, but just looked back and noticed that you already have the boxing built for your fascias and soffits.
    As before run all your tiles up the pitched roof with soakers and where you ask "what to do here" cut a piece of lead that covers the upstands on the soakers, following the pitch of the roof and then lap it up to underneath the bottom of the roof deck, no need to slot it through the deck.(right from the ridge so that it will begin under the ridge tile down about 2 or 3 soakers, make sure your soakers go right to the very top too) .
    Then build your fascia and soffit box to cover it but leave it a couple of inches short of hitting the tiles on the pitched roof, again make sure that the pointy end of the fascia will end under the line of the ridge tiles. fit your fascia and soffits(closing off the end into the pitched roof will be tricky, but make sure you do or you will get all sorts of creatures nesting in your roof)
    Then fit the edpm as you have drawn, you won't need a separate arris rail.
    At the ridge, yes run the edpm over the top but just enough so it won't show once the ridge tiles are on.
    I believe you are tile hanging the dormer cheeks, if so then obviously get those on before the fascia and soffit, which you may have to build down slightly to cover the nails.
     
  9. Bowlzi

    Bowlzi

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    Thanks for the detailed reply.
    I have already fitted the soffit on the two sides as that was how a double glazing person told me I should do... I was going to do as you said for that reason but he said otherwise. Looks like I'll need to buy some trim to cover the nails then. Fascias are black ash upvc so every thing is 3 times the price...

    As the epdm goes over the fascia edge then do you think I will need to cut it at the fascia point, ridge and pitched roof junction . (At The what to do here bit on the drawings.)

    Thanks
     
  10. Bowlzi

    Bowlzi

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    I was tiling the cheek and corner out today. Not a lot to show for 12 hours though. Only did about 8 courses of the bottom corner. Hoping it gets quicker when there are more tiles that do not need cutting.
     
  11. chappers

    chappers

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    I see why you're asking, where the fascia ends and there is the stepback to the lead flashing you may well have to cut it so one bit folds round the end of the soffit/fascia boxing, which will leave the other bit that comes straight down over the flashing and soakers short. I would then glue those bits down and then form a gusset, from a bit of scrap edpm, glued over the whole joint.
    I know it's too late now but is there any reason why you have continued the soffit around the sides. The principals are the same but it's just made it all that bit more complicated
     
  12. Bowlzi

    Bowlzi

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    :D inexperience; to cover counter battened plain tiles; aesthetics ;poor advice.

    It does seem to be causing me a problem but as you say, its a bit late now.
     
  13. chappers

    chappers

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    we normally only soffit the front as its the easiest way to create ventilation. Though to be honest we only do that where head height is an issue as otherwise its warm roofs and no soffit.
     
  14. Bowlzi

    Bowlzi

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    Ah... Mine is a warm roof. So none of it was needed then... I should look better with one though, I hope...
     
  15. chappers

    chappers

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    gives you a bit more weather protection if nothing else.but as you have found is a lot of work
     
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