Accidental nick to socket cable

[TryAgain1]

I have accidentally nicked a 2.5mm2 twin/earth cable going from the 2 gang socket downward under the floorboards to the consumer unit. The consumer unit did not trip and I think the neutral wire (located about 8cm below the socket) was nicked and I did not get electrocuted and the socket works.

The bottom of the socket is about 35cm from ground (as is all the other sockets in the property except above worktops) and 7cm from doorway edge. The property is a 90s build.

Electrical regs say that for new builds the sockets need to be 45cm or higher above ground.

I think I have 3 options 1) relocate the gang socket from 35cm down to 28cm which I can do as both the to/from wires are from below the socket, 2) add a 1 gang socket with front plate with a 30 Amp connector which allows access for maintenance, or 3) Use a socket tester wrap PVC tape round it and leave as is

I don't think I can use option 3) as I have no idea if just the neutral was cut or the neutral and earth and I might get trip faults in the future.

For option 1) can I relocate the socket down to 28cm (bottom of socket)? I think for older properties minimum height is 15cm which is fine.

For option 2) I have cut/pasted the kit from another post but I need to:
fit one of these 8cm below the socket
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MTMDLB1.html

Join cable with some of this
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MTMDLB1.html

Use some of this on bare earth wire
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CAGS3slash10.html


and then use one of these to cover it
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG904.html

Which one should I go for, option 1) or 2)?

 

[mikehammer69]

Probably repair with a maintenance-free joint

 

[Sureitsoff?]

Is there any slack in the cable that might allow the nicked cable to be pulled up?

 

[TryAgain1]

Is there any slack in the cable that might allow the nicked cable to be pulled up?

Just tried no afraid not

 

[TryAgain1]

Probably repair with a maintenance-free joint

I've read that electricians don't like hidden maintenance free joints behind plaster and that one should use visible plates for access.

Also, as the ring main is 32A I would use a Spring Lever Connectors 3 Terminal 32A (https://www.toolstation.com/in-line-spring-lever-connectors/p78346) which is better than the 30A chock blocks

 

[mikehammer69]

I've read that electricians don't like hidden maintenance free joints behind plaster and that one should use visible plates for access.

Also, as the ring main is 32A I would use a Spring Lever Connectors 3 Terminal 32A (https://www.toolstation.com/in-line-spring-lever-connectors/p78346) which is better than the 30A chock blocks

I wouldn't fit one in my own place., No

 

[TryAgain1]

I wouldn't fit one in my own place., No

So, out of the options below:

1. Connector Strips 30A, https://www.toolstation.com/connector-strips/pAE651
2. In Line Spring Lever Connectors 3 Pole 32A, https://www.toolstation.com/in-line-spring-lever-connectors/p78346

which one would you pick and why?

 

[mikehammer69]

So, out of the options below:

1. Connector Strips 30A, https://www.toolstation.com/connector-strips/pAE651
2. In Line Spring Lever Connectors 3 Pole 32A, https://www.toolstation.com/in-line-spring-lever-connectors/p78346

which one would you pick and why?

2. but wago brand ,not unbranded

 

[TryAgain1]

2. but wago brand ,not unbranded

View attachment 409242

There is not enough flex in the cable for 180 degree turns.

So I would use this wago instead x 3 (one live one neutral one earth):

WAGO 221 2-Way Inline Lever Connectors 32A 0.2-4mm²: https://www.toolstation.com/wago-221-2-way-inline-lever-connectors/pAC293​

is this ok?

 

[mikehammer69]

There is not enough flex in the cable for 180 degree turns.

So I would use this wago instead x 3 (one live one neutral one earth):

WAGO 221 2-Way Inline Lever Connectors 32A 0.2-4mm²: https://www.toolstation.com/wago-221-2-way-inline-lever-connectors/pAC293​

is this ok?

I was assuming you’d replace the short piece to socket if necessary to allow jointing

 

[TryAgain1]

I was assuming you’d replace the short piece to socket if necessary to allow jointing

No I'd rather just cut the nicked cable 8cm (where the nick is) then join live/neutral/earth together with the 2-way line wago connectors (wago connectors would be inside an accessible 1 gang backbox with front plate). Not going to replace the short piece to socket.

Sounds ok?

 

[Ragnar_AT]

Of course there‘s also the option of using Wago 2273-2401 inline connectors and heatshrink tubing. They‘re explicitly designed for maintenance-free repairs in walls.

 

[TryAgain1]

Of course there‘s also the option of using Wago 2273-2401 inline connectors and heatshrink tubing. They‘re explicitly designed for maintenance-free repairs in walls.

I have no experience with heat shrink tubing and the 'WAGO 221 2-Way Inline Lever Connectors 32A 0.2-4mm²' (https://www.toolstation.com/wago-221-2-way-inline-lever-connectors/pAC293)

is lever compressed (no soldering/special tools/heat shrink) needed so I (as a DIY'er) can do this myself without needing to be skilled at heat shrinking materials

I don't mind having an extra 1 gang plate showing just below the 2 gang socket not bothered about the aesthetics.

Would it matter if the 1 gang plate was 28cm from ground? The UK electrical regs about sockets being 45cm above ground apply to sockets NOT junction boxes (as far as I know)

 

[EFLImpudence]

Would it matter if the 1 gang plate was 28cm from ground?

No, of course not.

The UK electrical regs about sockets being 45cm above ground apply to sockets NOT junction boxes (as far as I know)

There is no such regulation.

 

[TryAgain1]

No, of course not.


There is no such regulation.

My mistake the 45cm socket height is recent guidance not a requirement