wheel barely spins, Droning noise, hot caliper , what is the problem here ?

Rightboy91 · 25 May 2020

Burnerman said:
I haven’t replaced one of these hub / bearing assemblies (yet) but have done many pressed types such as Renault, Citroen, Ford and VAG......at my age I think it’s increasingly unlikely but I’m still prepared to give things a go.
John

They look quite difficult to press in/out from when I saw my mechanic friend do it on my other car once. If it was the press in/out type I think I would take the hub to a garage and ask them to do it for me but it looks as thoguh on these vectras they are inbuilt into the unit which is good, also the abs sensor is apparently built in too.

Somebody has suggested track rod end which is a good possibility but I feel as thoguh it is a wheel bearing issue over than but I am not sure. I would ideally take it to a garage for a free quick check such as at kwik fit but the handbrake on my car not working so putting it on their lift may not be not be an option

Burnerman · 25 May 2020

Its perfectly fine to be able to turn the track rod through a few degrees.....it’s the action of the ball joint in the track rod end that allows this, although there shouldn’t be any play in the joint at all.
Don’t forget though, when you spin the wheel you also have to take transmission drag into account.
It’s also very true what leegsi says about tyres.....I fitted Maxxis tyres once and the road noise was astonishing, just like a droning bearing.
John

leegsi · 25 May 2020

As you removed the pads so there was no friction material on the disc it has to be wheel bearing.

They are bolt on (Large Torx bolts) so quite easy to replace if you have the tools.

From memory I think you can undo the driveshaft nut and it will move far enough back (Into the gearbox) to allow you to get to the bolts.

Also there are 2 types depending on what colour the ABS sensor plug is and engine size.

Also you want to make sure the pads and caliper are free as thats possibly what over heated the wheel bearing.

If your anywhere near Portsmouth give me a shout and I can have a look

sxturbo · 25 May 2020

Change the bearing.

Sometimes if you push and rewind the piston a few times the caliper will free itself (be extremely careful not to press the brake pedal so hard the piston pops out).

I don't want to re-read the thread again but didn't you say the piston dust seal was damaged? If so I'd just replace the caliper as it's all apart and saves it causing more issues down the line.

Regarding the track rod end it sounds ok, difficult to advise from a distance.

Rightboy91 · 25 May 2020

leegsi said:
As you removed the pads so there was no friction material on the disc it has to be wheel bearing.

They are bolt on (Large Torx bolts) so quite easy to replace if you have the tools.

From memory I think you can undo the driveshaft nut and it will move far enough back (Into the gearbox) to allow you to get to the bolts.

Also there are 2 types depending on what colour the ABS sensor plug is and engine size.

Also you want to make sure the pads and caliper are free as thats possibly what over heated the wheel bearing.

If your anywhere near Portsmouth give me a shout and I can have a look

Hi there
thanks so much for offering to look this over for me in person, however I am far north from Portsmouth, I'm up in Lancashire near Manchester/Liverpool area in Skelmersdale. I appreciete it all the same, very kind of you.

I replaced the wheel bearing on my 06 ford focus so I assume it is a similar process to that ,right ?

It is not on the gearbox side it is no the opposite side so will undoing the drive shaft nut on this side still be applicable ?

I didn;t know there were 2 dfferent types so thanks for informing me, I will ensure I get the corrrect one. I don't recall the abs being any colour other than black or grey ?

I think if it is the wheel bearing it will be related to it covering very almost 200 k miles (assuming they haven't been changed yet ) but it could possibly be caused by sticking brakes so I will look out for that. However when I rewound the caliper piston they went back no problem and the pads were an easy fit in the caliper, not feeling jammed in e.t.c.

Rightboy91 · 25 May 2020

sxturbo said:
Change the bearing.

Sometimes if you push and rewind the piston a few times the caliper will free itself (be extremely careful not to press the brake pedal so hard the piston pops out).

I don't want to re-read the thread again but didn't you say the piston dust seal was damaged? If so I'd just replace the caliper as it's all apart and saves it causing more issues down the line.

Regarding the track rod end it sounds ok, difficult to advise from a distance.

Hey, thank you
I do not think the caliper piston is stuck, it is not giving any symptoms of being stuck as far as I am aware. It didn't get hot todaty like it did yesterday. the issue remained without the brakes being ni the car so I don't think the brakes are the issue here, but I will investigate further with them to be sure

No the dust seal on the caliper is fine, not torn or anything.

leegsi · 25 May 2020

Really easy on the Vectra:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=szYAM3GNsVo

Mottie · 25 May 2020

There you go. Easy - just 12 minutes and 15 seconds to do it.

Rightboy91 · 25 May 2020

leegsi said:
Really easy on the Vectra:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=szYAM3GNsVo

thank you, I will have a watch of that. I beleive it is basically the same procedure on any car ?

edit : It does look easier on the vectra, I don;t think the hub needs come off as it does on the Ford focus

Rightboy91 · 25 May 2020

Mottie said:
There you go. Easy - just 12 minutes and 15 seconds to do it.

hi
They always make everything seem so quick and simple, in reality it's usually nowhere near so straight forward.

I also will have to try and remove the rounded off brake caliper bolts ( which is why I didn't change discs with pads as couldn't get bolts off ) I will try those rounded off bolt extractor tools, are they any good ? I think they are basically sockets that are designed to go over the rounded off bolts, grips them and pulls them off.

cheers

Mottie · 26 May 2020

Are you using a six sided socket?

Rightboy91 · 26 May 2020

Mottie said:
Are you using a six sided socket?

hi
I am not sure how many sided socket the the sockets are that I was using but they are the right noes as I undid one of th 4 bolts, the other 3 rounded off. I see online they sell the rounded off socket removers which are sockets to fit rounded off bolts, was just wondering how good they are for jobs like this ?

thanks

Burnerman · 26 May 2020

For jobs like this, when you have to get it right first time its always advisable to use hexagon sockets rather than bi-hex.
You may shift yours by using a wall drive socket.
Which removers had you in mind?
John

Rightboy91 · 26 May 2020

Burnerman said:
For jobs like this, when you have to get it right first time its always advisable to use hexagon sockets rather than bi-hex.
You may shift yours by using a wall drive socket.
Which removers had you in mind?
John

hi
I was thinking of something like this

11pc Twist Sockets Locking Wheel Nut Remover Non Slip Broken Studs Rounded Bolts

I noticed today that both road wheels spin freely when the car is in neutral but whenever it is in a gear is when the wheel does not free spin , is this normal ?

I also noticed when I rock the wheel side to side the strut moves as well, is that normal ?

thanks

Rightboy91 · 26 May 2020

Mottie said:
Are you using a six sided socket?

hi
I was thinking of something like this

11pc Twist Sockets Locking Wheel Nut Remover Non Slip Broken Studs Rounded Bolts

I also noticed when I rock the wheel side to side the strut moves as well, is that normal ?
I noticed today that both road wheels spin freely when the car is in neutral but whenever it is in a gear is when the wheel does not free spin , is this normal ?

thanks

wheel barely spins, Droning noise, hot caliper , what is the problem here ?

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