3 pin plug socket for cooker?

30 Nov 2006
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United Kingdom

I am shortly moving house and refitting the cooker.

Currently it is wired directly to the socket at the back of the cooker and there is a switch to power it on.

The next house only has a 3 pin plug socket and the seperate on/off switch...

Do I ignore the 3 pin and plug it directly into the on off switch, meaning I have to cut a channel in the bottom of the socket for the wire or what?!?!?!?!?
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Can you give us a bit more info on the cooker? Power rating, electric/gas etc? Was it on its own circuit originally i.e. via a cooker control unit?
Just re-read your post and is sounding more and more like electric, turn off the electric and just pop the cooker control unit switch forward, how many wires are there behind it?

It's an old (10 Years+) Creda Starlight Electric cooker. When I fitted into this house I purchased a length of 10mil electrical cable and simply wired it from the back of the cooker directly into the 'blank socket?!' behind the cooker.

To turn it on and off I flicked the red switch on then turned the dials to the heat setting required.

The new property does not have one of these 'wiring plates'. All it has is a 3 pin plug socket (behind the cooker) and the usual on off red switch at the side.

I am no genius at electrics, but I guess that I can't wire 10 mil electric cable to a 13 amp plug.

Hope this helps,

P.S its been 10 years since but I think there were 3 wires to connect.


I'm not at the new location at the mo, when you say pop the cooker control unit switch forward do you mean the Red power switch?

Sorry for my lack of knowledge on this!
the new place sounds like it has only provision for an electric oven, since these are usually plugged into a normal socket.

as you are moving why not buy a gas cooker.

what did the previous owners have?
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So you want to fit a traditional cooker (oven and hob) into a newly built kitchen? The new kitchen only has 13A sockets. You have a choice: get an electrician to wire in another, appropriately sized cable, or buy a hob and an oven and power them from different sockets.
kevnurse said:
... or buy a hob and an oven and power them from different sockets.

Oi! You can't power an electric hob off a socket!
(or did you mean a gas hob?)

Also: If it is a new build it can reasonably be expected to have a cooker circuit unless it is a very cheapskate builder.

Have another careful look round the kitchen.

Also look at the consumer unit and see if it contains a cooker circuit (probably at 32 or 45Amp).

If you have a digital camera take a pic of any switches or unusual looking outlets in the kitchen and we may recognise them.

(we like pics :LOL:
that red switch might be a cooker switch, and the double socket is there in place of a cooker outlet. might be worth checking behind this socket for what size cable is there and how many.
I'll have to get back to you around Dec 23rd. I'm moving Monday morning, and i'll be offline until the mentioned date.


(looking forward to salads at x-mas.)
O.K I can't get to my camera 'cos it's in one of the dozen or so boxes full of life clutter.

Anyway I took the red box off and it's very tightly wired (too much for a novice like me to attempt at).

I took the three pin socket off the wall and it looks like I can wire directly into there. I have created an MSPaint attempt (from memory) of what it looks like.

If there are two wires I THINK it will work. If there are three there doesn't seem to be a spare for earth...

It says 13AMP on the rear of the socket.

Remember it's only an old cooker, oven, 4 rings, and a toaster section.

We would be interested to know:

- how thick are the wires in that "cooker" socket? (compared to 2.5mm that is used for socket rings)

- Does the consumer unit have a "Cooker" circuit, and how many amps is it?

- Does that socket go dead if you turn off the "downstairs sockets" circuit MCB; or if you turn off the "Cooker" circuit MCB (if there is one)
Yeah, as John says, we need to know if you have a dedicated circuit for a cooker. It may "only" be an old cooker with 4 rings, an oven and a toaster section, but it is too big for a circuit wired in 2.5mm2.

It needs to have its own circuit (min 32A) back at DB., wired in min 6mm2 cable, with its own isolation switch. If this is so, you can't use the socket as a means of connection.
the electricity box (for the entire house) has a seperate switch which will power the the cooker off and on. Or trip if faulty
OK, when you switch this off does the socket outlet behind the cooker turn off? What is behind the unit to the right of the cooker i.e. directly below the switch?

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