Bathroom Refurb

hi all,

So, I’m looking to do a bathroom refurb, new bath sink etc.

Already in there is a 700 x 700 shower with a door frame, one side is the main bathroom wall and the other is a tiled stud wall.
My plan is to take the stud wall and shower tray out, and the door & frame. The current bath is situated behind the other side of the stud wall and goes to the opposite wall and fits in flush between the two.

By taking the stud wall out, I understand there’ll be a line of tiles missing. My problem is when I take the bath out, the tiles stop at the height of the bath.
My plan was to put cladding over the full wall, so i need advice on how to fill the gaps where tiles should be in order for the cladding to sit flush?

The end goal is to place a bigger whirlpool bath under the existing thermostatic shower and create more space.

How difficult will it be to create an electrical point for the new bath? I imagine it’ll be a spurred point that the electrics from the pump will go to, will the main feed come from a plug socket near by. It’s not something I’d dare do myself obviously, it’s just I’m trying to establish how it can be done and what kinda complications it could cause.

Secondly, I have replaced the extractor fan that was broken, two dilemmas here.
1st being the new extractor is smaller, so when it’s on the wall, there is a gap between the extractor and the tiles that where originally cut to fit the previous fan, between the surrounding tile and new extractor edges is a plastered wall. Any ideas to fix this?

second dilemma is the new extractor doesn’t have a timer so now I have a non switched live wire that is screwed into one of those little white plastic screw boxes for attaching wires, and taped up with electricians tape just for the short term. There is an isolating switch outside the bathroom for the extractor, in theory, if I take the non switched live wire out of there, does that mean the current non switched live wire taped up will not be live anymore, or will it be coming from the pull cord switch in the bathroom?

Any advice is appreciated.

Cheers

Mick

 

If the isolator switch has been wired correctly then removing the permanent live from the *isolator* switch terminal will mean that the permanent live at the extractor fan will indeed be disconnected. However, assuming that the cable is fully insulated within the choc block, there is no issue with the method you have used for terminating the cable within the new fan (albeit I wouldn't have used any insulating tape).

 

That’s great, however when I originally fitted the fan the I connected the non switched live, and as you’ve guessed it, it wouldn’t turn off when the light went off. So with that in mind, the cable is still going to be live unless I turn of the isolator switch. Is there way of disconnecting the live wire to the extractor permanently just to put my mind at ease that’s all.

Cheers

 

As to the timer, why didn't you get the same size fan, or at least a timer fan. And if you can't refit the same soze fan, then you're going to have to retile that section - as well as most of the bathroom I suspect.

As to the panels; why aren't you removing the tiles first so that there isn't an issue.

As to the whirlpool bath; you want the isolater and electric outside of the bathroom, not in it.

A picture and possibly a diagram would help the explanation you've given.

 

Yes, sorry I have edited my post as I can see that it didn't necessarily read correctly. I have tried to provide a more detailed response below...

If wired correctly, the isolator switch outside the bathroom should be a final connection before the fan. This then allows you to isolate the fan to work on it without isolating the whole circuit and therefore working in the dark. If this approach has been taken, as you quite correctly suggest, removing the permanent live wire from the output side of the isolating switch will mean that the permanent live wire within the fan will be fully isolated/disconnected.

Do you have a multimeter or tester to confirm this?

 

So the idea is to put the cladding over the back wall tiles to keep work and time without a bathroom to a minimum.

I’ve spent nearly two weeks looking for a tile and I can’t find a single one the same,

 

No multimeter I’m afraid, thought about licking the end though.

 

Probably best not to

You could remove the wire from the isolator (after switching off the relevant circuits) and then check there were no other negative affects once the power is back on (e.g. bathroom light not working). Although, as stated above, the current termination method you describe in your original post is fine.

 

Cheers for the advice, Appreciate it mate!!!!

 

Well when I ordered the fan at the time I’d never thought of that...

Just thinking how easy it is to take a tile off the wall I’m going to take out and replace the one where the exctractor is

 

As long as you've got a spare one, then you just whack it with a hammer, and then clean it off.

Edit: Just spotted the ealier pictures, and as you haven't got a spare, then I'd get a bigger fan to cover the hole. And as to the tile height mismatch, you could use gyproc one coat plaster to build up the height to take the panel.

 

So the time situation has come up trumps, iv gently cracked round the tiles I needed from the stud wall that needs to come out.
They came of brilliantly and in tact, got three just in case.
Then iv soaked them in warm water for an hour and the adhesive has softened so comes off the back of the tile really easily.

Happy days ..

 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.

Please select a service and enter a location to continue...

Plumber / Gas Engineer Electrician Builder Decorator Builders' Merchant Plumbers' Merchant Tile Supplier Flooring Supplier
Start Search

Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local