BAXI Barcelona woes

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10 Dec 2008
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Jersey Marine
Country
United Kingdom
had 3 logic boards blow over a 5 year period on a standard condensing Barcelona.

Replaced most recent 4 weeks ago .. and had to change out teh wiring harness as board design now changed (hopefully more reliable)

Since swap out I have had intermittant fault - every few days, boiler stops and signals 'Ignition Lock-out/ overheat' ... turning off/on resets it and it works OK until next time.

On old board the advice was to remove both Blue bridges.


On new board .. there are now 4 bridges (J1-J4)
When I received new board I called BAXI and they advised remove all 4 ... but since then found a Tech note that states:


System upto J1 In J2 In J3 In
75,000 Btu/hr


System upto J1 Out J2 Out J3 Out
100,000 Btu/hr


Thermal Store J1 In J2 Out J3 In
compatibility



Anybody know what purpose of J4 is ... and what it should be set to ? in case this is causing my intermittant problem.

Boiler is connected to Thermal store.
 
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Jumper 4 (yellow) is for low ignition rate, used on vertical and extended flues.
If you do have a thermal store set your jumpers as per the thermal store settings!
 
When I first had 'new style' board I phoned Baxi and they said remove all bridges ... but Ihave replacened 1 and 3 as it is connected to thermal store.
I'll monitor to see if that was causing the intermittant fault.

can you explain more about jumper 4 ? .... not sure what you mean.

I have a standard balanced horizontal (almost) flue less than 0.5m long.
 
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The fan runs at a lower speed on ignition sequence thus drawing less gas, giving a lower rate of ignition!
 
so for normal through wall short flue ... should jumper be OUT - that is way I have it set currently.
 
OK ... jumpers 1,3,4 in place. ... no difference

recoup - Boiler runs happliy some times for a few days, sometimes a few hours (gone 3 times today) ... then it stops with RED light on ... which is the "Ignition Lock Out / Overheat"

I have swapped main logic board

Checked ignitor gap is correct, adjusted slightly to - 3.5mm

Removed condesing water trap, cleaned it all out


Switching off, and back on 'resets' and it works again, but this is becoming a pain.

Any suggestions ?
 
OK ... jumpers 1,3,4 in place. ... no difference

recoup - Boiler runs happliy some times for a few days, sometimes a few hours (gone 3 times today) ... then it stops with RED light on ... which is the "Ignition Lock Out / Overheat"

I have swapped main logic board

Checked ignitor gap is correct, adjusted slightly to - 3.5mm

Removed condesing water trap, cleaned it all out

Switching off, and back on 'resets' and it works again, but this is becoming a pain.

Any suggestions ?

Change the overheat sensor?

If there enough flow through the heat exchanger?

Heat exchangers full of gunk can restrict flow and retain heat in the wrong place, both causing a hot spot in the heat exchanger causing the overheat to cut in.

It heats a thermal store. Does it do it direct? If there a Magnaclean filter on the rads return to the store?

If changing boiler go for a Broag. They also do a vented boiler and system boiler.
 
Check your condensate pipework is not blocked with debris or ice.
 
Removed condensate trap and poured water down pipe - it's running free.

Boiler is pump connected direct to Thermal store (28mm primaries), and when running plenty of differential between flow & return so no blockage in Thermal store.
Pressure in loop is correct at 1 bar.

Looks like I am going to have to start changing things as elimination... is there a logical sequence (this is going to be expensive)
I may be able to borrow any standard parts (not Baxi specific)

No Magnaclean (and no rads) invloved
The primaries pump full contenets of thermal store around boiler, so not going via heat exchanger.
 
No Magnaclean (and no rads) invloved
The primaries pump full contenets of thermal store around boiler, so not going via heat exchanger.

So UFH. Perfect, then no ferrous. Looks like an electrical problem. Change the overheat thermister as a first attack. Make sure the connection is sound and that any leads are OK.

Is there a pump overrun? The pump may be switched out the same time as the burner causing the heat exchanger to overheat, as it is not getting rid of the heat as the boiler switched out on 80C. What is the store and boiler temperature set to?

If the store stat is switching out the boiler and external pump (not controlled by the boiler, only the cylinder stat), it may be worth your while fitting a cheap overrun timer for the pump - have it run on for 2 to 3 minutes after the cylinder stat switches the burner is off.
 

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