BAXI Barcelona woes

Is the inner combustion door seal ok and the door tight.??

They were orginally white and broke up then caused the products to leak locking out hte boiler on the fan stat.

New ones are red, and much better.

This is however getting past what a DIYer should be doing however as this is classed as gas work.
 
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Is the inner combustion door seal ok and the door tight.??

They were orginally white and broke up then caused the products to leak locking out hte boiler on the fan stat.

New ones are red, and much better.

This is however getting past what a DIYer should be doing however as this is classed as gas work.

A DIYer can do it as long as he is competent. You don't know the level of competence of RickH.
 
yep full UFH (and to date it has been great)

Just ordered a Flow Temperature Thermistor (Red) - will be in tomorrow morning.
Thnx for the help.
 
Is the inner combustion door seal ok and the door tight.??

They were orginally white and broke up then caused the products to leak locking out hte boiler on the fan stat.

New ones are red, and much better.

This is however getting past what a DIYer should be doing however as this is classed as gas work.

A DIYer can do it as long as he is competent. You don't know the level of competence of RickH.


I know the issue ref CORGI regtd .... I did install it originally, and the full UFH system ... I had (and annually continue) a gas safety check ... so keeps things legit.

I'll order seal as well. However, doesn't feel like heat is escaping.
 
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Is this replacement pcb the one used in the Promax? The Promax is the Barcelona with the problems nearly ironed out.
 
Is the inner combustion door seal ok and the door tight.??

They were orginally white and broke up then caused the products to leak locking out hte boiler on the fan stat.

New ones are red, and much better.

This is however getting past what a DIYer should be doing however as this is classed as gas work.

A DIYer can do it as long as he is competent. You don't know the level of competence of RickH.


I know the issue ref CORGI regtd .... I did install it originally, and teh full UFH system ... I had (and annually continue) a gas safety check ... so keeps things legit.

He sounds competent to me. He asks intelligent and relevant Qs too indicating so.
 
I assume the thermal store has backup electric. If this boiler has to scrapped consider fitting two cheaper boilers, then backup.
 
Original PCB was 241837... with single relay and 2 blue bridges.

Latest board is 247794 ... with twin relays & 4 bridges
 
With full UFH you can remove jumper 3!
This will also help to identify or eliminate an overheating issue as the flow temp will be reduced to 63°C.

Good advice about the pump overrun, but from what I read this is a newish problem?
 
what will that give ? ... the BAXI tech note on jumpers was:

Baxi Barcelona

System upto J1 In J2 In J3 In
75,000 Btu/hr


System upto J1 Out J2 Out J3 Out
100,000
Btu/hr

Thermal Store J1 In J2 Out J3 In
compatibility



It would be good to know what the bridges do ?

Currently set to J1,3,4 IN J2 OUT




Pump overrun is not enabled.
 
With full UFH you can remove jumper 3!
This will also help to identify or eliminate an overheating issue as the flow temp will be reduced to 63°C.

Could be that it needs to run at 75C as DHW is also incorporated in the thermal store, as most are. Reducing the boiler flow temperature to 76C or even better reducing the store temp to say 70-72C and always having boiler just set to 2C above store setpoint may solve it.

Good advice about the pump overrun, but from what I read this is a newish problem?

I am not familiar with the Barcelona (well not these days as there are so few left after frustrated scrapping), but does it need the pump switch from the boiler?

If this pump was switched independently from the store's stat I would have put an overrun on from new. I would also have put on two stats with latching relay to prevent boiler cycling.

The problem is when the new pcb was fitted. This may be just poor contacts somewhere, or is the existing thermister compatible with the new pcb? Or have many problems surfaced at the same time?

The problem is repairable, as the Promax is basically the same boiler. People just get ****ed off with continually ironing out the faults and downtime and then scrap it.

Lets face it, if this boiler only does long burns and does not cycle as it is is on a store, a cheap simple BIASI or Heatline would do the job just as well as any other boiler. The anti-cycling control of the store ensures minimum wear of the boiler parts and longevity. But, Broags are high quality and well priced (may not last for long if they take off), so their range is very appealing price, quality and spec wise.

I would be inclined to fit a Broag boiler using a 3-way diverter valve and have Surrey flange on the UFH flow pipe to the store. When DHW is called the boiler ramps up and sends 80C water the top of the store for DHW, when satisfied the diverter valve sends weather compensated low temperatures to the bottom of the store for UFH. The stat(s) may have to be moved up into the DHW section and a be a clamp on version.

AFAIK, thermal store compatibility on the Barcelona pcb was just having a fixed rate burner and modulation disabled.
 
just for clarity ..

Boiler is connected to whole contents of Thermal store via 28mm pumped primaries
DHW and UFH have their own heat exchangers inside the store.

DHW is via a 3 port thermostatic valve, and is also on a pumped (timer) loop to give instant HW.

UFH is pump fed to 14 zones each with own zone actuator & digital thermostat.

Control is via NuHeat system controller.

Pump overrun is not used.

All worked well until this boiler issue ........ initially logic board problem, on board fuse would blow as soon as power applied to boiler.
Replaced board (new type needed new wiring harness) .. fault fixed.

About 2 weeks later intermittant fault started.

Boiler stops ... GREEN led ON ... RED led ON.
Manual refers to this as either "Ignition lockout" or "Over Temperature"

Turning boiler off & then back on at potentiometer (on/off sw) reset boiler and all OK until next lock up.

Frequency of lockups increasing to 8 or more times a day.

Have so far :

Changed logic board again - no difference
Removed & reseated all connectors
Removed and reseated all earth connectors
Removed & cleaned condensate water trap
Checked condensate drain pipe
Initially all 4 jumpers removed - no set to 1,2,4 IN 3 OUT

Have ordered new Flow Temp Thermistor & combustion box door seal for tomorrow.
 
Is the pump sticking or running too slow? This can cause localised over heating in the heat exchanger.

I would check the pump. Is it on the flow or return? Best on the return as it runs cooler for most of the time.
 
pump is on return and a 2 port electrical valve on flow ... this is there as an ant-thermal syphon valve to prevent hot water flowing by thermal loop back to bolier when boiler not on burn.
 

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