Baxi Barcelona - ignition lock out

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There was a previous long thread on this - asked to start explanation again - so new thread.

Initially had a total failure on boiler .. control board fuse kept blowing on power up, replaced the control board & harness, harness had to be changed as board had been superseded.
All OK for several weeks. (this may or may not be relevant)


Fault then started ... boiler would stop working, ... ignition lock out/over temperature LED (RED) is illuminated.

Simply turning boiler to off (via temp control knob) and then back on ... clears fault and it is then OK until next failure, which could be days.

I obtained another control board ... no difference.


The faults started getting more frequent ... sometimes a few times a week, on one occasion around 12 times in one day.

I removed water trap & cleaned, checked drain pipe is clear.
Reset electrode gap.
On advice I replaced flow temp thermistor .... and after changing that had no failures for at least 4 weeks.

It has now returned with a failure once or twice a week ... usually after being off over night.


Installation is Baxi connected to a Thermal store, so volume of store to cycle through (not just volume in a heating loop).
In the 28mm feeds to boiler there is a bypass loop, a pump on return and an anti-thermal syphon 2 port valve.
As this may not be easy to describe ... I have put a simplified sketch on line:
http://tinyurl.com/afx6ur

The fault always clears by switching off & on ... which would (to me) suggest that it is not a sticking pump or zone valve as if they had stuck, why would they have unstuck, every time when all I do is turn off & on (I may be wrong on this)
 
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why not take a bg breakdown contract once youve been accepted its oue problem till its sorted. could be someting as simple as the gas pressures being out of kilter after the board replacement. this issue really seems to be somethingn thats not gonna get solved over a forum.
 
boiler would stop working, ... ignition lock out/over temperature LED (RED) is illuminated.

If the red LED is on constant, this is not an overheat porblem.

The problem is failed ignition.

The electrodes and flame sensing probe need to be checked and cleaned. The spark gap should be at least 4mm.

There should be a brown outer sheath covering the ceramic part of the electrode.

To eliminate problems with the condense trap, temporarily pull off the white wire from it and insulate the end.

Check Ignition PCB for signs of scorching, replace if necessary.
 
Have set electrode gap (& cleaned) whenever I stand in front of it .. it fires up on first spark ... I know it can have multiple attempts.

I'll disconnect the water trap connection for a while and see if that makes a difference.

I noticed that it is about 3/4 full. ... both sides
Since I removed and cleaned it fully ... left hand side wasd empty and right hand side 3/4 full.

I assume that is what it should look like in service?
 
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It's an EnergyMater II but not relevant to the problem, as boiler does not know anything about it.
 
does the flowswitch not interrupt igntion on this? for a week try turning boiler off overnight and watch it start up in yhe morning....

still suggest you give up and get someone more experienced...you've certainly tried your best with this.
 
flowswitch where ? .... is there one in the boiler ?

I could switch it off at night ... but waht am I looking for in morning, I would not know what to look at.
 
I dont get the impression that he should have been doing gas related work on this boiler!

Tony
 
If in doubt I always change electrodes, never clean/reset gap.
 
I rarely change ignition electrodes unless it a job for a manufacturer where costs are not important and reliability is.

But then I have a 0-30,000v generator ( JP30A ) for lab tests on ignition electrodes!

Tony
 
amazing.

yet you still use your finger to test for a ****ed pump.
 
I have a DT2234A laser optical tachometer to contactlessly measure pump rotational speed.

However, as few boiler engineers have them I certainly dont expect DIYers to have them either.

In any case the "finger test" is a measurement of the torque!

How do you test your pumps then?

Tony
 
i use a lump of tissue and gubbins developed in the early 70's. in the rare times that this test equipment fails me i use the BG supplied limpet, not always accurate but if you know how to use it its handy.

failing that i just change the pump and see what happens, if it doesnt work i put the old one back on.
 

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