Bungalow Re-Wire - Chase up to loft or up from suspended floor void?

[BigClick]

Is there a preferred approach to routing twin and earth for ring circuits in a bungalow with suspended floors?

If I come from the top I would have to do a fair bit of chasing down to some sockets. I have pulled down the old ceilings so currently no insulation or cramped spaces to tackle in the loft.

If I connect from under floor I only have to chase a little. The floor void is about 750mm deep with some honeycomb dwarf walls. Some boards are coming up for new CH pipes.

The kitchen isn't suspended floor so I have to come down the walls here in any case.

It's free labour, as I will be doing the cable bashing, but I am not sure what the ideal approach would be in the context of a quality electrical installation.

What would generally be the preferred method given the scenario described?

Also no chasing required for light switches as I am using kinetically energised wireless switches

Cheers

 

[crystal ball]

My personal choice would be the method that causes least damage and least graft

 

[Tigercubrider]

if it was me, and I am not trade, I'd use the floor. plus add some supports and string lines to help pull stuff through later.
IMHO sticking shelves up is harder if there are hidden wires in walls

Presumably the floors will have heating pipes etc run in them.

Running a few lines to enable cat 6 won't take long either but don't go mad "future proofing" with stuff that will date.
keeping easy access is better

 

[EFLImpudence]

Is there a preferred approach to routing twin and earth for ring circuits in a bungalow with suspended floors?

No. It's up to you. I.e. what do you prefer.

 

[Screech20]

As said already, it’s up to you how it’s done, but in my opinion, why would you chase all the way up from the CU, then chase all the way back down again to each Socket? That’s a hell of a lot of work, not to mention cable cost.

 

[BigClick]

As said already, it’s up to you how it’s done, but in my opinion, why would you chase all the way up from the CU, then chase all the way back down again to each Socket? That’s a hell of a lot of work, not to mention cable cost.

As said already, it’s up to you how it’s done, but in my opinion, why would you chase all the way up from the CU, then chase all the way back down again to each Socket? That’s a hell of a lot of work, not to mention cable cost.

Thanks for the your comments. It looks like it's a personal choice then. Purely on personal preference I will probably chase down from the top into and out of each room and sling cable below to interconnect the room sockets.

The CU is fixed to a backboard in the garage along with a galvanised trench to contain cables as they go up to the loft.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

A galvanised trench?

 

[BigClick]

A galvanised trench?

https://www.edwardes.co.uk/en/produ...MI54q9_5mB3AIV7LDtCh2DXwN3EAQYAiABEgKL7fD_BwE
I think when trunking gets this big it should be bcalled a trench

 

[sparkwright]

If the floor comes up easily, then obviously go under the floor.

Shorter cable lengths are always preferred.

Why do you want wireless switches??

 

[ban-all-sheds]

To make life more difficult? Especially for future owners.

 

[phatboy]

I went down for all sockets, and up for light switches.

My kitchen is also solid floored, so I just drilled diagonally from floor level behind where a kitchen unit would go, into the void under the adjacent hall. I made a 50mm cored hole, to allow for 2 cooker circuits, a ring circuit and a dedicated dish washer circuit. Once the cable got into the room, it just runs at floor level under the units, and comes up to the worktop sockets and is chased in just for the part above worktop level.

You should run cat6 cable into every room too, there will never be a better time.

 

[BigClick]

I went down for all sockets, and up for light switches.

My kitchen is also solid floored, so I just drilled diagonally from floor level behind where a kitchen unit would go, into the void under the adjacent hall. I made a 50mm cored hole, to allow for 2 cooker circuits, a ring circuit and a dedicated dish washer circuit. Once the cable got into the room, it just runs at floor level under the units, and comes up to the worktop sockets and is chased in just for the part above worktop level.

You should run cat6 cable into every room too, there will never be a better time.

Cat6? Why not OM4 fibre or wave guides I hate terminating Cat6. Cat5e is decent enough for around the house maybe run fibre in at the same time.

I have been trialing the Quinetic switch and it’s been faultless so far, what are your negative experiences with wireless switches?

 

[phatboy]

Cat6? Why not OM4 fibre or wave guides I hate terminating Cat6. Cat5e is decent enough for around the house maybe run fibre in at the same time.

I have been trialing the Quinetic switch and it’s been faultless so far, what are your negative experiences with wireless switches?

Cat6 because why not? Not a lot more than Cat5e but a bit more future proof./ and good for 10GB if for when we need that.
Yeah if you can afford to run OM4 everywhere and terminate it go for it !

 

[Adam_151]

https://www.edwardes.co.uk/en/produ...MI54q9_5mB3AIV7LDtCh2DXwN3EAQYAiABEgKL7fD_BwE
I think when trunking gets this big it should be bcalled a trench

No, just trunking as opposed to mini trunk, its not exactly big either.

Do you know how you are going join the trunking with the fuseboard? , Its not that theres any particualy exotic skilled involved, its just that I wouldn't normally expect a DIYer to have an appreication of whats normally done and a hash up could result, so you would be best advised to ensure you know what you are doing before you start cutting

 

[BigClick]

Cat6 because why not? Not a lot more than Cat5e but a bit more future proof./ and good for 10GB if for when we need that.
Yeah if you can afford to run OM4 everywhere and terminate it go for it !

No, just trunking as opposed to mini trunk, its not exactly big either.

Do you know how you are going join the trunking with the fuseboard? , Its not that theres any particualy exotic skilled involved, its just that I wouldn't normally expect a DIYer to have an appreication of whats normally done and a hash up could result, so you would be best advised to ensure you know what you are doing before you start cutting

I will follow the regs and get it signed off by a qualified inspector. All the wiring will be left open for inspection and the qualified electrician will switch over from the old CU.

I thought the regs specified an IP rating for top of the CU? So was going install it to that. There isn't any cutting involved at the CU end of the trunking. At the top I’m using a natural flexible trim to cover the edges it’s made specifically for sheet metal used in electrical equipment.

Not sure how I could hash it up, how do you think I should join it without hashing it up? It will be bonded electrically if that’s what you mean?

Comments are very welcome, it cost me £20 quid for a length if 2x6 trunking (trench) lol wouldn’t want to waste it.