Cold Home - Thermal Camera/Flir One

[JohnD]

I'd do the outside as well. You can put wide tape on the bricks to prevent foam marking them. The foam degrades in sunlight so outdoors, you have to protect it with plastic strip, or silicone sealant, or you can paint it when set.

But if you seal whatever gap you can see from indoors, it will block the draught. You can do that in winter.

The foam is not good for filling a cavity because it will drip down before it hardens. Your house might/should have a cavity filler at the window openings.

You could buy the gun and one can each of foam and cleaner, and try your hand for a start. The cleaner lasts a long time. It prevents foam going hard inside the gun.

 

[Notch7]

Hi Awilliams: thank you for starting a really interesting thread.

 

[awilliams]

John - Sounds like a big job...are there any videos or even photos that I can follow? Forgive me, but it's just that I don't under what exactly I'll need to do on the inside and what I'll need to do on the outside to seal the window from cold air.

Also I found a different make called SOUDAL GUN with 5 CANS on ebay. Is this value for money? I also need to make sure it can get to very tiny gaps.

Lastly, what sealant (white colour) would you recommend for outside part of the window frame?


Notch7 - Your welcome ....please do join us.

 

[JohnD]

I don't thinks it's difficult. If you start with the skirtings I think you'll get the hang of it. With the gun turned to a low position the foam is easy to control.

The thing I was trying to warn against was having excess foam bulge out and stick to the walls, floor, shoes, fingers, clothes etc.

 

[awilliams]

I don't thinks it's difficult. If you start with the skirtings I think you'll get the hang of it. With the gun turned to a low position the foam is easy to control.

The thing I was trying to warn against was having excess foam bulge out and stick to the walls, floor, shoes, fingers, clothes etc.

Yeah, tell me about it. I've used the standard bottle version before and it can get messy although I think I'll be okay.

Really sorry John, but I think whilst you were typing a reply, I edited my previous reply with some questions....could you please help?

 

[JohnD]

the Soudal set looks good value, but I have only used the Fischer (I tried one used by someone else who recommended on it) so don't know. Fischer do make some good stuff.

Silicone sealant lasts longer than older caulk or acrylic sealants, which IME go hard and crack. You can't paint silicone.

If you have white windows, use white silicone. I use dark brown round hardwood doorframes. It blends in from a distance.

I mostly use any own-brand but the bathroom fitter likes Mapesil from the tile shop.

 

[awilliams]

Right, thanks! Am I right in doing the following steps for our living room bay window?

EXTERNAL-SIDE OF WINDOW

• Take off the old sealant around the frame
• Clean away dust debris from the visible gap around the frame
• Wet the gap to help the foam stick (not 100% sure about this one???)
• Apply expanding foam around the frame to fill the gaps
• Leave it to expand and dry
• Cut off excess
• Apply the silicon sealant

1. Is any of the above wrong or missed anything?


2.What do I need to do on the INTERNAL-SIDE OF WINDOW?

3. Regarding the foam guns.... I noticed that one of the sellers is offering a cheaper bond-it gun with more quality soudal bottles Can a fischer gun fit different manufactur foam bottles, such as soudal foam bottles or are they all different shapes and sizes?

 

[JohnD]

Same process inside and out, but there is usually a useless bit of plastic trim inside that the fitters use to hide the gaping crack they leave. You may prefer to tidy it with filler or plaster after foaming.

Wetting is correct. you can use a garden sprayer. Squirting generously with a bit of WUL will help wash away dirt, but then let it dry so it is just damp with no visible droplets or puddles.

Or you can just mist it with a sprayer before foaming.

If you mist the foam after applying, it forms a skin on the surface more quickly.

With practice you will get neater, but I do this:

cut a piece of batten or architrave that will cover the crack

drill several holes in it that the nozzle will fit through

wrap it in clingfilm

screw it tightly to the frame and wall (maybe you could wedge it)

punch through the clingfilm at the holes

inject through the holes, starting at the bottom and giving each time to expand

The batten prevents it bulging out into the room, so it has to expand into the gap. This is especially useful round fire-door frames, where it will prevent passage of smoke or flame. It also holds the frame very firmly to the wall and prevents it coming loose. This is very useful if you have a teenage daughter who likes slamming doors. In some countries it is accepted practice to fix door linings in position with wedges and foam only (no screws).

When fully set (next day) remove the batten and peel away the clingfilm, the foam should have formed a neat flat fillet with no gaps, and no cutting or smoothing required, and no foam wasted in useless bulges or drips.

You may want to batten both sides to prevent it bulging out on the far side.

If you are very skilled and neat, or doing it professionally and want a quick job, you can miss out the battening. But I think it does a first-class job.

I have used Fischer and Everbuild cans, and I think the Screwfix own-brand, they all fit my gun.

 

[motorbiking]

It looks like you could so with some more loft insulation and perhaps making up a secondary glazing unit for your single pain stained glass. Beyond that, insulated plasterboard on the inside assuming you are willing to redecorate.

 

[awilliams]

John - Thank you for the detailed instructions. I have no problems doing the outside. However I can't for the life of me, figure out how to access and fill around the frame inside. It's similar to this sample photo:

So where would I get access on here to pump foam?


Motorbiking - Can you show me where on the pic you think loft insulation is required?

 

[JohnD]

it looks like your reveal has a white liner. Is it a hard plastic panel?

it seems to hide any gap round the windowframe and possibly also closes the cavity. There might be a foam block in the cavity, possibly attached to the liner, like the closers used in new build. I don't know how to get it off. Mine are different, and the plaster/window join is visible and accessible.

The L-shaped trim might prise off.

 

[awilliams]

John - I'm not too sure. I'll get you the proper pics....allow me sometime, thanks.

 

[awilliams]

Apologies about the confusion earlier John. Below are photos one of my actual windows (Sorry about the camera quality). Note that other than the window itself being upvc, the window cill and the the frame around it is all wood. This is the same for all windows in my house.

View media item 102215View media item 102214

I've bought the bond-it gun with 5 soudal foam cans. The reason being is because it actually works out a lot cheaper - The foam gun is almost free. My plan is to use the gun until it's broke and then purchase the fischer brand:

 

[phatboy]

I've used cheap guns and expensive ones. The expensive Fischer is a bit better to use, but not much. The Fischer foam however seems really good, and the cans seem bigger!

It takes a bit of practise, and at first it's hard to appreciate you need to half fill a gap and wait 20 minutes and it will be full - I wasted loads of foam by overfilling at first and then needing to cut it all back.

For small gaps you want these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Foam-...b:g:DyEAAOSwAHZURTOH:rk:4:pf:1&frcectupt=true

Will easily go in a 5mm gap.

Keep your foam cleaner close by for any accidents, and spray it on immediately.

Leave the can connected until it's empty, just clean the nozzle with the cleaning can. I've left a can on for a few months and it still worked perfectly. Also best to remove and refit cans outside somewhere, I once had one sort of explode as I fitted it, and bloody hell what a mess. But that was 1 in about 50!

 

[endecotp]

I don’t think the foam you’ve bought is the fire-rated version.