This was fitted like this since the house was new 8 year ago. It looks like its designed for a boiler. 6 simple screws and it slides forward 6 inches, i need to disconnect the wiring from the socket if i want to remove it totally, so its not too bad. I can imagine these being a nightmare sometimes.
Come & Have A Dig At The O.P (mega banter thread)
- Thread starter robtherevelator1969
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This was fitted like this since the house was new 8 year ago. It looks like its designed for a boiler. 6 simple screws and it slides forward 6 inches, i need to disconnect the wiring from the socket if i want to remove it totally, so its not too bad. I can imagine these being a nightmare sometimes.
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Flue doesn't look sealed internally. If it were me I would be lifting it up out the back and replacing like for like (rgi). Your boiler stores the preheat water in a section of the expansion vessel so you can't cap it off and replace it but if it's not leaking you can leave in situ and fit another.
From what i read its a boiler off job and i can afford to pay for a replacement by a tradesman, im unemployed. The schrader valve was leaking so i fitted a 90 degree ext and this has sealed it.
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The pressure in expansion units should be checked yearly when the boiler is serviced, my guess is it hasn't been serviced and the expansion unit hasn't been checked
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i wish i could recharge it and safe money, there is water coming out the valve, also air got into my radiator after pumping air into the EV, i thought after that happening it must be faulty.
I went to screw fix and bought the supplies today, ill try and tackle the job later today. The fill loop is connected to the return, my plan is remove the check valve, fit an equal tee between the check valve and the pipe on the return pipe, then connect this to the EV which i intend to fit horizontally on the bottom of the cupboard. I hope this sounds fine.
The expansion vessel should be fitted above the connection point, all pipe work should rise to the vessel.
The vessel should be fitted vertically air gap at the top of the unit, expansion of water can then push upwards against the air.
The air pressure needs to be adjusted before fitting they come pre charged.
The inlet connection is at the bottom schrader valve will be at the top when fitted
The vessel should be fitted vertically air gap at the top of the unit, expansion of water can then push upwards against the air.
The air pressure needs to be adjusted before fitting they come pre charged.
The inlet connection is at the bottom schrader valve will be at the top when fitted
thanks for the info steve. Will i get away with fitting it vertically in the cupboard below as i thought this was ok, a few folk suggested this in my previous thread, also seen a diy installation video where the guy fits it below the boiler and it works fine.
P
Phill Peck
I did exactly that in same situation (pic looks almost identical) I wanted to fit a bigger vessel but I could only get an 8L in under the boiler.
Not ideal but it was my only option.
P
Phill Peck
Back in the real world if u want to fit it in the cupboard under the boiler it will probably have to go sideways.
The vessel will work regardless of orientation.
by looks of space under op boiler thats the same case
I have fitted the EV and have added pics. Does it look as if its installed ok, how will i get all the air out so it fills with water, will i need to fill it with air to expel all the air from the water side?
With no water pressure the whole vessel is full of air at the 0.9 bar you set it to.
Therefore as soon as you apply the system pressure to the water connection then its fine.
The small amount of air in the pipework has no significant effect.
Tony
Therefore as soon as you apply the system pressure to the water connection then its fine.
The small amount of air in the pipework has no significant effect.
Tony
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dam more space than i thought
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Phill Peck
Yea that will be fine I meant fitting it sideways in the boiler cupboard.
I didn't have the space u did. There was a washing machine in that cupboard
I didn't have the space u did. There was a washing machine in that cupboard
Tony thanks for the info. The heating system is working fine, im not losing any pressure and its only increasing 0.5 bar when the heating is on. Result. I have a container under the discharge pipe and not a drop has escaped.
I was hoping this may fix the 'singing' noise i get when the hot water is on full, it is quieter now but its still there when the dial is set full and i fully open the hot tap, if i set the dial to 2/3rds it is fine, i have tried adjusting the water pressure with the balance valve under the sink but it does not help. It also makes this noise on CH mode for a couple of minutes when heating up from cold, once the system is hot it seems to stay quiet.
Any ideas what could be causing the noise?
please click on the pic to see a video where you can hear the noise in question.
I was hoping this may fix the 'singing' noise i get when the hot water is on full, it is quieter now but its still there when the dial is set full and i fully open the hot tap, if i set the dial to 2/3rds it is fine, i have tried adjusting the water pressure with the balance valve under the sink but it does not help. It also makes this noise on CH mode for a couple of minutes when heating up from cold, once the system is hot it seems to stay quiet.
Any ideas what could be causing the noise?
please click on the pic to see a video where you can hear the noise in question.
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