Come & Have A Dig At The O.P (mega banter thread)

Status
Not open for further replies.
I think you need PTFE on the union behind.

The cap nut ( the one to the front of boiler ) comes with a thin rubber deposit on the inside I think. There may be a fibre washer that will fit inside it.

Or PTFE stretched across the mating surface.

I already had a leaking HW connector, i managed to replace the fibre washer with a standard one from b+q. I may need to do the same with this one. Ill apply the ptfe tape too.

So what next regarding the kettling? I appreciate the patience shown in guiding me on the path to a quiet boiler :)
 
Sponsored Links
The reason is that the Band B boiler is designed to condense inside the recouperator and thus deal with the resulting condensate. The flue components will be designed to operate with water rich flue gases.

The fan is between the heat exchanger and recouperator and so operating above the temperatures where there is a risk of condensing ( below 55-60 C ).

Tony

Fact remains cast iron will stress and crack (have seen it first hand)if differential is too large hence 11 degree benchmark. Copper HE has no such issues
 
Back to the problem.

In the absence of actual temperatures I would like to be sure the flow rate on CH is adequate.

The boiler MI do not mention it, but many similar models have a gauze filter fitted at the front of the isolating valve under the boiler. These are intended to be fitted to the return but some installers have wrongly fitted them to the flow. Do you think you have one on your boiler which can be removed to clean?

You may find this filter shown on the manual of the virtually identical model marketed under the Potterton brand name.

Tony


I removed the gauze filter and it was slightly clogged with rusty sludge, i thoroughly cleaned it and refitted it, the kettling is still there. Now the chrome return fitting leaks, what is the correct way to fit the nut, there is 2 nuts, a big one and a smaller back nut. There is a filter on the diverter valve is that for HW only?

Need I say anymore!! Need I say I told you so:LOL:
Get proper washers and seals. Stretching PTFE across the flat is amateurish and a botch job that Mr Agile often accuses other folk of:cautious:

If the pressure gauge is stable, let it go. Boiler is ok. If boiler overheats, it will tell you so. By tinkering with it, you are creating more trouble for yourself
 
Sponsored Links
Handbags at dawn. :LOL:
Oh, really
Now you have a boiler that has a leak
A boiler (possibly) fitted with an expansion vessel used for unvented cylinders
Could you perhaps elucidate how air got into the radiators when you pumped up the old vessel. Let me stress you have an auto air vent in the boiler, air will pass to external via PRV pipe, collect at a high point such as the heat exchanger.

Let me at this point say Tony is a respected gas engineer known to make occassional wild statement. Banter between us two may clear a thing or two for you, and might even be educational for me or Tony (though he will not admit it) but to make smarmy remarks is one thing that may preclude others from assisting you. If you want to know, I regularly work on 105e, both standard and instant, have replaced EV without taking boiler off the wall. Problems you have with the boiler are elementary and should not be heading for page 7

Now it will put my handbag away
 
I gave him some suggestions for stopping the leak if he did not have the washers or could not get them quickly. If course the washers need replacing when that is possible.

The ongoing fault is kittling he tells us.

Nothing we have found out so far would be a reason for this.

Kettling can still occur on a clean HE but is far more pronounced on a dirty one and particularly with lime scale.

Why don't you pop over Danny and help him out?
 
Why don't you pop over Danny and help him out?
I will help old ladies cross the road, help carry their shopping to the car or whatever if they are struggling, help local church. What remain of my charitable nature is exhausted by wife, son (as will happen this weekend) and daughter. Rest pay.

I will do a special rate if you would like to contribute:p

Tony you keep saying scale. We do not have scale that you are familiar with​
 
We are told the boiler is kettling and that disturbs him.

Kettling can occur with no deposits in the HE but is much more prevalent if there are deposits in the waterways.

All the info we can acquire here is that the gas rate is correct and the CH flow rate probably correct.

If we decide there are deposits in the HE, then they could be lime scale or iron or copper oxides or a combination of all three.

DP says ignore the kettling. But the OP seems to want to prevent it.

Unfortunately, because of the odd mentality of many in the plumbing trades which seems to be learnt during training, there is a desire to run down and make fun of others. As a result, because there is no clear cut solution, no one else is making any positive suggestions.

Whatever I suggest, if it does not work, will result in a tirade of posts which are less than complimentary to me. If it did work they will all keep quiet and not give me any compliments. Such is the nature of this forum. It was even worse on the Screwfix forum to the point it was virtually closed down.

Consequently, I am not wanting to present myself as a scapegoat so will not make any suggestions.

If I did, then it would be to use some Fernox DS3 with about 10-20 grams applied to the boiler with all rads isolated so they don't dilute the concentration.

If that produced a well discoloured solution after running the boiler on CH and DHW for about 10-15 min in total. Then I might drain and repeat the procedure.

Tony
 
Dp i cant believe you have got on your high horse about a simple comment which was purely banter. There is no need to have a dig at anyone. I will refrain from saying what i really think.

Tony, i really appreciate your help, patience and efforts to help me. Unfortunately there are many forums ruined by people who seem to thrive in giving out bad comments. Every idiot can access the internet these days and this is the result.

Is the kettling not considered a problem ? i just know its not meant to make this noise so i want to get it working correctly. Whats the difference between using the DS3 and x200 which i already have?
 
:rolleyes: your very much mistaken me friend , believe it or not he was helping you
 
  • Thanks
Reactions: DP
Bertie, I started composing a suitable retort to your post that implies what you think:cautious:

I scrubbed it to rewrite to try and get you to move in a logical manner to resolve a problem which, after reading 6 pages, may well be an imagined one. I am surprised Tony fails to see the important points but directs you to carry out tests that produce differing results

I scrubbed that too

If you cannot respond to some simple questions posted by other members, I am not surprised you still have a problem and appear to be creating more

I must be living in a parallel universe where kettling starts when boiler is 20 degree C, there is lime scale in pure Scottish water, pumping up expansion vessel sends air to the radiators and spot of water In the expansion vessel means it is broke.
 
Tony, what are you on about? Tirade? This a a discussion forum, do you expect other readers to agree to every thing you say?

Tirade? What, about lime scale in Scottish water
Tirade about 11 degree differential?
If someone does not agree with your posts, does that become a tirade?
 
bad comments. Every idiot can access the internet these days and this is the result.

Oh, really. Fella go right ahead. Use X200 to clear lime scale in your boiler pressurised with Scottish water that HAS NO LIMESCALE. you do have the cheek to bandy the word idiot without foundation
 
calm down i never implied you were an idiot

there is no fibre washer at the connector, there is rubber on the mating face, so no need to buy a new washer.
 
ever heard of a saying " don't bite the hand that feeds you " whats better one persons advice or two (y)
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Sponsored Links
Back
Top