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I do remember a post where, it is alleged, it appeared that you were describing a dishonest act.

If you were not, please feel free to defend yourself by posting a link to the original thread proving this is not the case.

No doubt you would say that the onus is on others to try to prove your dishonesty, not for yourself to prove your innocence.
 
I denied it at the time, and showed how the "judgement" of some people had no evidential basis and was just an interpretation they had chosen to make.

Whether they believe I am telling the truth or not is not something I have any control over, but if they don't they have nothing except their belief, and nothing which gives them a basis for calling me dishonest.

I do not intend to link that previous thread into this one just because holmslaw and Johnmelad think that personal grievances and unsubstantiated beliefs justify ad hominem attacks on me in all other threads I post in.
 
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So your ex council house has rooms 8-9m x 3-4m, thats the biggest council house ever built.
Is it an ex-council house?

I don't believe it is, and there is still at least one house in the street occupied by the people who bought it new, it's not the case that all of them were.

I have certainly never said that it is, and as you don't know my address I wonder why you think you know that it is.

Would you please explain why you wrote that?

Does it matter, though, who built, or financed the building, of the house in the first place?

As you seem to think that responding to a question about efficient lighting controls should involve considerations of who built the house, would you please provide a rational explanation of why that factor affects the size of the room and/or the number of light switches it should have?

I assume you can do that? You aren't being irrational in your replies are you?


You're not telling porkies are you?
No - but I was slightly inaccurate with the size I quoted, which was arrived at through a "let's think, it must be about..." process.

I've just measured the room in question, and it is 8.06m x 4.06m in one half and 3.5m in the other.

So using that more accurate figure, would you please explain why having the lights in a room 8m x 3-4m on 4 switches, so that the state of them can be adjusted to suit requirements is not an efficient idea?

You must be able to explain why, as you clearly said that it was not efficient, and you didn't say that for no reason, or without believing it to be justifiable, did you?


Also its 3 people remember you're boasting about defrauding an insurance company.
No - it's 3 people remembering that I said something in another topic, which one person interpreted as saying I had defrauded an insurance company, and 3 people choosing to ignore the fact that I gave an explanation which did not involve fraud.

There you go again, more lies
OK.

I asked a question about a light switch, and you decided that the right way to answer it was to criticise me for something I wrote in a different and completely unrelated topic several weeks ago.

What was your reason for doing that? You did have a reason, did you, or were you behaving unreasonably?

And on a wider note, what is your reason for attacking or criticising me at all when all I have done is to ask a simple question about light switches?

You obviously think you should do that, so why?
 
Hi all,

I would just like to put my input in here, about two years ago I did some work in a kitchen extension a bit bigger than BAS's room. They had a grid switch with 6 ways, 2 switches for main tasks, 6 for the flush mounted CFLs and then on the splash backs some more grid switches for indevidual under cupboard task lights. There was some dimmer fitted for the CFLs as well. All MK logic.

If you use the MK plastic grid switch covers you can get one that looks simular to what you need. They are 6 module ones and I had to use blanks in the middle two but they lined up in a square. It gave me more space for the mass of wiring.

There was also some contactors fitted to control the lighting as well due to the load. Just so if you switched everything at once you ended up popping a 10A type c so I added time delay over feeds from two 10A type c.

I only really got involved with the control side.

I all ways remember on completion of the job the carpenter managed to screw right into two of my 1.5mm drops for the under cupboard lights while fitting the cupboards even tho they was in a safe zone with an FCU under the drop. Ended up been a late night on the end of the job cutting out the plasterboard and crimping in new cables!

The idea was they could switch the banks of light and dim the ones they wanted. It worked out quite well as they could cook without all the lights on, and when eating they could dim the lights.

Its a simular idea to BAS's and I think its a good idea. The lights were all CFLs where possible. It saved energy as you could switch the lights the way you wanted depending on the use of the room. The kitchen was long and had the appliances one end and table at the other.

Its better than having everything on one switch and having no control over the power consumption.

Adam
 
BAS, have you considered using some sort of scene seter instead of a traditional dimmer?

They are more expensive but it might be a better soloution?
 

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