Double pole switch locations

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Hi,

Planning the kitchen layout for a new build and trying to keep the no of switches to a minimum above the worktops.

Do the double pole switches for an integrated fridge, micro and dishwasher have to be situated in the kitchen.

I would have space on the other side of the partition wall where the appliances will be installed, In a store room where the CU will be mounted.

Would this be acceptable?
 
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They are a point of isolation so they should be accessible near to the appliance.

In my opinion they should be inside the litchen, others may tell you different
 
Have a look at the virgin kitchen post near the base of the 1st page.

MK grid do reduce the numbers of back boxes required by combining up to 4 x switches in a double box.

As for relocating them outside the room, no- no and no ! Imagine a fire, or a device going very wrong, would you be happy to have to go to another room to isolate the electrics for the failing / burning / smoke device ?
 
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Hi Knickam,

IMO you don't even need to use DP's, so to install them into another room seems pointless to me.

Have a look at this thread -

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=192206

Also, just a thought about glass splash backs. They look great when the're brand new, but if you don't seal the edges well, the're a big PIA to clean between the wall and the back face of the glass. You also need to be sure that the wall is dead flat, kitchen units will tolerate slightly convex/concave walls, but glass doesn't.
 
As for relocating them outside the room, no- no and no ! Imagine a fire, or a device going very wrong, would you be happy to have to go to another room to isolate the electrics for the failing / burning / smoke device ?

I agree with you if you are in the kitchen when the appliance goes wrong,
But if I was in the living room and was allerted by a smoke alarm I could be faced with a kitchen full of smoke in which case I would prefer to isolate from another location.
 
Also, just a thought about glass splash backs. They look great when the're brand new, but if you don't seal the edges well, the're a big PIA to clean between the wall and the back face of the glass. You also need to be sure that the wall is dead flat, kitchen units will tolerate slightly convex/concave walls, but glass doesn't.

Its all been said to the better half, But she is digging her heels in deeper than a north sea oil well. :(
 
Isolation points must be readily accessible.

Why not provide local isolators for the circuits rather than the individual appliances, eg. for a 32A ring final, take a 6mm feed from the cu to a 32A isolator from here you wire your ring final circuit.

So an average kitchen would have;
Cooker circuit with local isolator within 2 metres.
Ring final for sockets and appliances with main isolator near entrance door.
Fridge/freezer circuit with isolator in vicinty of fridge/freezer.
Job done.

Think that might be a solution, Thanks
 

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