How Would You Chase This Cable Into The Wall?

[333rocky333]

You can drill a wall diagonally as once the drills in a bit the cable is then over 50mm deep, though when the cable exits the other side it then needs to create a new safe zone defined by an accessory.
Though bear in mind if ever drilling within 150mm of the ceiling then you are in a safe zone where there may be existing cables.
Was the plan to drill diagonally above the socket but beneath the boxed in stairs

 

[rsgaz]

Originally I was asking if I can drill diagonally at the top of the wall to run the cable to the chase location

Well, you can, as long as the drill bit exits somewhere in a safe zone, or comes out into trunking on the other side.

but I still think I'll have to weave the cable around

Cut the chase in the wall, then stitch drill and chisel out the rectangle for the box.
Then poke a screwdriver up though the plasterboard at the top of the chase, actually inside the chase, as a sort of test hole initially.
Then pull up the floorboard above, so you can see exactly where it will need to go.
Then drill a proper hole through once you're satisfied it's gonna be OK.

I'm 95% certain that it'll be a lot easier than you think, it should only need to move over by about ten centimetres. And seeing as you want the socket higher than it used to be, you'll definitely have enough slack on the cables, whichever direction they come from. The only possible issue would be a joist right where you don't want it. Then, and only then, consider drilling diagonally, do it upward from near the top of the chase, so that it comes out straight into the void under the floorboards, and NOT so it pops out on the other side of the wall. (even though it would be in a safe zone in the top 150mm, it should be avoided entirely IMHO).

Gaz

 

[ILikeDIYS]

Took a hammer and chisel to it and realised it's hollow underneath! With a perfect route up into the floorboards (you can see the original hole the cable came through at the back).

 

[ILikeDIYS]

1. OK. You only need 1.0mm cable to the lamp. What is this obsession with oversized cable for lighting?

2. I wouldn't leave it under the floorboards. Why can't it remain in the double sockets back box? I would prefer to solder it than crimp, and use self amalgamating tape not insulation tape. Some say you shouldn't crimp solid cables.

Hi. If I crimp it inside the double socket I will have 4 cables running up the conduit?

 

[winston1]

Hi. If I crimp it inside the double socket I will have 4 cables running up the conduit?

OK. Then use a maintenance free junction box under the floorboards, not crimps.

 

[rsgaz]

Hi. If I crimp it inside the double socket I will have 4 cables running up the conduit?

Where is this new washing machine socket needed in relation to the soon-to-be-moved fridge socket? (more pics or a quick drawing of the final room layout would be very helpful)

Because, don't forget, safe zones extend horizontally from sockets also, so you might be able to go across from the moved fridge socket to it and extend the ring that way. Don't add it as a spur.

 

[ILikeDIYS]

Hi. Washing machine socket will be under the sink worktop. Am planning a 20A DP switch above the worktop with a switch-less single socket under the worktop. New kitchen will be fitted soon.

No spurs lol as I don't want to run into the spur-off-a-spur problem in the future.

Unfortunately I cannot chase sideways from the fridge socket as the door is in the way. The best route I have found is by cutting a hole in the ceiling where the two lines are marked:

And going behind the tiled white wall (which is actually a hollow boxed wall for the bathroom waste pipe), so shoudln't have to rip out the tiles.

Good call on maintenance free junction box for the ring extension. Feels much better than crimping IMO.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Disclaimer - I've not read all of the thread properly.

If you're extending a ring, why do you expect there to be 4 cables?

 

[stillp]

while trunking and capping are technically types of conduit

Not really, conduit is closed-jointed so conductors have to be drawn in from the ends, trunking has a removable lid, capping is just capping, not a type of cable duct.


conduit

part of a closed wiring system of circular or non-circular cross-section for insulated conductors and/or cables in electrical installations

Note 1 to entry: Conduits should be sufficiently close-jointed so that the insulated conductors and/or cables can only be drawn in and not inserted laterally.

 

[333rocky333]

The existing two are already going down to one socket and assume not long enough to divert.
therefore two extra ones over to the extra socket total 4
Failing that if he pulls one back into the ceiling and MF joins it there it would leave 2 at the socket

 

[ILikeDIYS]

Failing that if he pulls one back into the ceiling and MF joins it there it would leave 2 at the socket

This is what I'm going to do... but looking at Screwfix website they only gave MF junction boxes rated at 16A - am I right thinking this is OK for the 32A ring seeing as one leg is just "half" a ring AKA 16A should be fine? Cheers.

 

[333rocky333]

try hagar j803

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The existing two are already going down to one socket and assume not long enough to divert.
therefore two extra ones over to the extra socket total 4

Well.

Either someone is going to have to draw it for me, and explain why no existing cables can possibly be replaced with longer ones given all the wall removal, chasing and hole drilling going on, or I'll have to agree that I don't really know what the topographical issues are.

 

[securespark]

Ban

You seem to have a thing about replacing cables to avoid joints.

I'm sure you must realise that in the real world this is often not practical.

 

[333rocky333]

Bas does have a point, due to all the said upheaval its worth the extra effort to have no joints