Is this a reasonable list?

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I'm having a spark come and quote me for a rewire on my recent acquisition, a 2 up 2 down semi.

It currently has 4 MCBs and a mainswitch, in a 12 way GE enclosure fitted around 2006 (blue and brown tails). The busbar finished at about 8 ways, and there are about 5 ways with no blanks, just white tape. :rolleyes: The shower cable runs outside, and there is no isolator for it, the immersion is disconnected (presumably because the shower took its MCB) The only ring main is connected in with the cooker circuit. The lights have no earth, yet every fitting is metal and theres a metal lightswitch in the living room. I have spied a bare earth wire in the loft, but not traced it as yet.

I know I could do this work myself, I am easily competent, but unfortunately Doncaster council's notification procedure is broken / corrupt / lazy / stupid, as per my post last week. Basically I cant do the work myself legitimately.

The kitchen needs refitting, but when funds become available (probably a year or so). Clearly getting the messy electrics sorted has to take priority, so this is being done now. But I dont want my kitchen being torn apart now to rewire it. So I'm going to ask for surface mounted accessories and trunking in the kitchen, with the old sockets being isolated so the cables can just be pulled out later. Similarly, surface mount allows me to do what I want when the time comes to refit the kitchen - I can alter the layout.

SO, I have written out a spec of what I want doing. I just need you guys to check it. Is this the sort of thing you like to be presented with on a job like this? Or is it a tad cheeky from me, a mere homeowner?

[code:1]
Total rewire of lighting circuit upstairs (4 existing points)

Additions:
Timed fan in bathroom (ceiling or wall) with isolator.
Ceiling fan above bed in bedroom 1 (supplied), switched from beside bed only.
Additional switch beside bed for existing light in bedroom 1.
Light in loft, pullswitch above hatch.

Rewire of lighting circuit downstairs (5 existing points)

Additions:
New lighting point in hallway, switched downstairs only.
Alter switches in living room, so both lights have switches at both doors.
Alter switches in kitchen so both lights have switches at both doors, and neutral present at one
switch for undercabinet lighting (fitting at later date).
2 Low energy downlights to be fitted in kitchen (supplied) in place of current halogen light fitting.
Provide seperate single switch for outside light, and replace floodlight with new low energy
bulkhead (supplied) between door and large window.
New lighting point under stairs.

New ring main to bedrooms and living room (6 existing points)

Additions:
Two double sockets in bedroom 1, either side of window.
One double socket in bedroom 2, to left of radiator.
Two existing sockets in bedroom 1 to be recessed into the lath and plaster wall.

New ring main/radial to kitchen (4 existing points)

Wiring in kitchen to be surface mounted in trunking, in anticipation of changing layout of kitchen
at a later date. 3 Double sockets to be provided to working area. 1 double socket under stairs. 1
double socket to be provided between radiator and window. Wiring to existing work area sockets to
be isolated. Sockets will be removed at later date.

Shower circuit.

To be renewed, with addition of an isolator switch in bathroom.

Cooker circuit.

To be wired on surface, with a couple of metres of slack, in anticipation of changing location at
later date.

No supply to be refitted to immersion heater (pending removal at later date).
No supply to be refitted to kitchen fan.
Main earth bonding to incoming water and gas mains to be fitted.

Aerial extension cables to be removed from outside the house, and run indoors to similar points in the
bedrooms, using wallplates. Virgin extension also to be re-routed indoors to bedroom 2.

Linked mains smokes to be fitted on landing (ionisation) and in lounge (optical if possible)

All accessories to be white MK. [/code:1]

Clearly I will offer to help with the donkey work, such as chasing walls, lifting boards, making good. The walls upstairs are lath and plaster, and from the loft you can see right to the bottom of them! This made me happy!! Not as much chasing to do! But the bathroom is fully tiled, including the floor. And downstairs is all concrete floors. I'm contemplating pulling the ceiling down in the kitchen when the time comes to permenantly fit the electrics. :( (lath and plaster, overboarded with plasterboard).

And comments about the list?
 
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Personally I'd be happy to quote to that spec if I were given it....

however I would question the kitchen lighting... 2 low energy downlighters are not likely to give anywhere near enough light.
 
however I would question the kitchen lighting... 2 low energy downlighters are not likely to give anywhere near enough light.
They are 2 x 13w PL lamps in each - 52 watts in total, and there is a pendant at one end over the dining area. The ceiling is at 9 foot, so the light spreads from the downlights. I will fit some tubes on top of the wall cabinets, as well as underneath, if I find the light insufficient.
 
Hi Steve, good spec, I could certainly give a good estimate from that and then fix it down after a site visit
 
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ah, a customer who has a clear idea of what they want. Refreshing :)

If it were south yorks, i'd offer to quote. ;)
 
ah, a customer who has a clear idea of what they want. Refreshing :)

If it were south yorks, i'd offer to quote. ;)
Doncaster. Dont wanna be paying anyone travelling time though ;)

Holmslaw, I'm going to run pairs of cat6 to the kitchen breakfast area, both bedrooms and the lounge (with the hub/WAP near the CU in the corner of the lounge behind the tv OR under the stairs) while the floorboards are up and access is easy.

The front wall of the house is littered with cables - the master BT socket is about 5ft up next to the window, the virgin point is under said window, sky and aerial points come in next to the CU. Its a mess. But I cant really move BT or Virgin's stuff, not legit/cheaply anyway. :LOL: But I will be moving the aerial extensions and the IP box they join in, indoors.

I have a ballpark figure for a 2 bed semi of £1500, from the guy who is coming to see it on sunday. Though with all my extras I'm expecting it to be a bit more, as its not a straight replacement job. The temporary kitchen setup will make it a bit less though.
 
Or is it a tad cheeky from me, a mere homeowner?

In this forum we believe is sexual equality in all its variants. ;)

BTW, why don't you do all that yourself? Most sparks are pretty ****-poor when it comes to neat work.
 
BTW, why don't you do all that yourself? Most sparks are pretty p**s-poor when it comes to neat work.
See my post regarding Doncaster Council, their LABC and their attitude towards Part P, which is "get a professional to do it . . . or . . . get a professional to do it". :rolleyes:
 
Get a pro to check it. You can do the work yourself.
 
The front wall of the house is littered with cables - the master BT socket is about 5ft up next to the window, the virgin point is under said window, sky and aerial points come in next to the CU. Its a mess. But I cant really move BT or Virgin's stuff, not legit/cheaply anyway. :LOL: But I will be moving the aerial extensions and the IP box they join in, indoors.

I'd suggest you move the BT and Virgin cables to wherever you want. As long as the spark knows his stuff (i.e. he isn't the type that think it's OK to join aerial cables by twisting them together) then it shouldn't be a difficult job. Although it's certainly frowned upon by BT and Virgin will charge you for support if you cock anything up, there will no dire consequences as long as the job is done properly.
 
Get a pro to check it. You can do the work yourself.
I'll ask this guy for his input on this when he comes. I would like to do at least some myself. Might see if he can get me materials (cheaper). Or I could take adam_151 up on his kind offer.
 
BTW, why don't you do all that yourself? Most sparks are pretty p**s-poor when it comes to neat work.
See my post regarding Doncaster Council, their LABC and their attitude towards Part P, which is "get a professional to do it . . . or . . . get a professional to do it". :rolleyes:

If that's their attitude then I'd be tempted to go ahead and do whatever works I wanted, without their express permission. Who are they to stop you carrying out any DIY electrical work in your own house?
 
Steve

I have done a bit of detective work, mentioning no names.

Have e-mailed Stuart Foers and have today spoken to him and his colleagues.

They openly admit to discouraging DIY'ers.

He claims a "competent person" can do the work and complete a 7671 cert.

This he says, in the eyes of the law, is someone who is qualified, ie with 17th Ed and 2391.

Otherwise he is happy for DIY, providing you pay the fee (around £200, maybe a bit more depending on the house) then they contract out a periodic to their works department. They would have to come twice, once to check cable runs & again at the end to do the PIR.

If you want a more precise quote for the periodic, you can ring Stuart and he will get one.

Hope this helps.
 

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