Keep playing it the vid soon goes to department S, as I said it needs some one like dan on it
Johnward & VicVapour
- Thread starter ecowarrior
- Start date
Sponsored Links
You need to get back to the P&CH forum - there are over 300 posts of his for which you've not yet thanked him...
- Joined
- 27 Jan 2008
- Messages
- 23,734
- Reaction score
- 2,675
- Location
- Llanfair Caereinion, Nr Welshpool
- Country
I can understand that one may want to delay the heating of the domestic water when some other form of heating is also used. So yes one does really need some extra control.
However I will guess the sensor is a resistor and it would not be that hard to connect a second resistor in series or parallel as required to inhibit the water heating when it's likely some other system will be taking over.
I will admit I was surprised there were not more instructions to integrate it with other systems as the whole idea of not using a combi boiler is so solar panels and solid fuel cookers can also heat the water.
There is it seems a interface to connect a PC to change some of the parameters may be this will allow some changes? However adding a resistor I am sure can reduce the cut in temperature to allow other systems to integrate.
The problem with all the so called energy saving systems is they are evaluated as a stand alone system. So running the system at a lower temperature at certain times can reduce one's bills but we have no comparison between more efficient boiler v more efficient control.
The new breed of boiler we are told will include a sterling engine and a grid tie inverter so with that in mind it's no longer true to say condensation boilers are more efficient as there are now other methods to extract the last bits of energy from the burning of gas.
If we return to the system where the temperature of the returning water is not important then we can also use Myson radiators again without them adversely effecting the boiler. Since the Myson can have a timer/thermostat on each radiator then it gives far better control. Only down side is noise from the fan.
But we return to same point. "Cost" clearly where some one want to retain the old system they are looking closely at cost and although there are systems which work better it's down to cost.
One cheap way to raise the comfort zone during the evening is to use tungsten lighting as the radiated heat given off from tungsten lamps will have little effect to air temperature but will heat ones body. So instead of setting the TRV to 20 degrees to suit requirements of the evening they can be set to 18 degrees and the extra 2 degrees will be provided from the tungsten lighting. Since this will save energy maybe we should call tungsten lamps "Energy Saving"???????
However I will guess the sensor is a resistor and it would not be that hard to connect a second resistor in series or parallel as required to inhibit the water heating when it's likely some other system will be taking over.
I will admit I was surprised there were not more instructions to integrate it with other systems as the whole idea of not using a combi boiler is so solar panels and solid fuel cookers can also heat the water.
There is it seems a interface to connect a PC to change some of the parameters may be this will allow some changes? However adding a resistor I am sure can reduce the cut in temperature to allow other systems to integrate.
The problem with all the so called energy saving systems is they are evaluated as a stand alone system. So running the system at a lower temperature at certain times can reduce one's bills but we have no comparison between more efficient boiler v more efficient control.
The new breed of boiler we are told will include a sterling engine and a grid tie inverter so with that in mind it's no longer true to say condensation boilers are more efficient as there are now other methods to extract the last bits of energy from the burning of gas.
If we return to the system where the temperature of the returning water is not important then we can also use Myson radiators again without them adversely effecting the boiler. Since the Myson can have a timer/thermostat on each radiator then it gives far better control. Only down side is noise from the fan.
But we return to same point. "Cost" clearly where some one want to retain the old system they are looking closely at cost and although there are systems which work better it's down to cost.
One cheap way to raise the comfort zone during the evening is to use tungsten lighting as the radiated heat given off from tungsten lamps will have little effect to air temperature but will heat ones body. So instead of setting the TRV to 20 degrees to suit requirements of the evening they can be set to 18 degrees and the extra 2 degrees will be provided from the tungsten lighting. Since this will save energy maybe we should call tungsten lamps "Energy Saving"???????
That's wierd because I wire up loads of heating systems for a local plumbing firm, and it's always just switches.
Room stat = switch
Frost stat = switch
cylinder stat = switch
limit stat = switch
programmer = switch(es)
thermocouple = switch
NTC = switch
zone valve = switch
Yeah there might be some fancy electronics in there but all it really boils down to is lots of switches
Sponsored Links
If you think an NTC is a switch then you know nothing about electronics.
Not entirely sure you could call a thermocouple a switch either come to that 
.
.
Course it is. It gets to a certain preset temperature and something either starts or stops. That's a switch.
Not entirely sure you could call a thermocouple a switch either come to that
Same again. It receives an external influence (heat or cold) and something happens. That's a switch.
No switch there
So who is most qualified to change electrical componants on a gas boiler?????
No but it's connected to a switch in the PCB
No switch there
So a thermocouple isn't a switch and neither is an NTC.
What is a the other end on them is another matter entirely.
What is a the other end on them is another matter entirely.
Not that one, its a temp prob of a instrument
Possibly on paper - you- but in the real world u arnt allowed inside them and as a NTC is now deemed a switch I think u best leave the pumbs to fix them!
I think u will find Ebus & O/t protocols are not switches either. The whole essence of modern heating is NOT to use on off switches? Its this that causes exessive overshoot & hysteresis?
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
