I already tried it that way up, it wont go. Yes some hardwood to match wold make it look less of a botch job.
New Wooden Headboard Needs Split In 2 Professionally, Joiner Or DIY?
- Thread starter robtherevelator1969
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I already tried it that way up, it wont go. Yes some hardwood to match wold make it look less of a botch job.
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D
Doggit
Well you gave it a good go, so take a trip to the woodyard with the footboard, and then get the power tools out.
Good idea. I think to get a nice straight cut, get a new blade for the jigsaw and g-clamp a guide to the headboard, that should give a thin cut and a nice straight line.
The room to the right is my back door porch and i have tried starting from there, it just wont fit up the stairs, know it looks like there is enough room but its just not possible.
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You can always cover the cut with a decorative moulding.
ok optical illusion then
jigsaws seldom do a good job
i personally would look for 3 or 4 strips off timber to go from just above the skirting towards the top off the top rail but about an inch below the top surface about 12mm narrower than the uprights and about 15-18mm thick otherwise your joints will tend to flex
if you screw the strips on then you can remove them at a later date
jigsaws seldom do a good job
i personally would look for 3 or 4 strips off timber to go from just above the skirting towards the top off the top rail but about an inch below the top surface about 12mm narrower than the uprights and about 15-18mm thick otherwise your joints will tend to flex
if you screw the strips on then you can remove them at a later date
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depending on the thickness a 12mm to 22mm drill horizontally along the top board joint to the upright, should remove the glued joint sufficiently for you to pop the top off, using either a reversible quick clamp or pry bar between two bits of cut CLS/stud timber. Then drill smaller holes top down to allow some long screws top down to re-asemble - recessed about 10mm and doweled to hide the screw holes. A bit of shoe polish over the dowels mixed with furniture polish and you should be able to colour match. To remove you just tap a nail into the dowels pull out and unscrew.
The risk is the wood splitting when you pull apart, which is why I'm suggesting you drill out the joint.
The risk is the wood splitting when you pull apart, which is why I'm suggesting you drill out the joint.
ok optical illusion then
Agree - it looks like you could get a snooker table up there, let alone a headboard!
I bit late now, but IKEA mattresses come roll-packed, for easier transport (in your car) and shifting around the house.
D
Doggit
Or we could discuss the alternative method of enlarging the stairs opening instead. It wouldn't be that difficult, and it only looks as through the light swithc and wire would need moving.
But if it were a foot wider, would the headboard still get around the turn up the stairs.
But if it were a foot wider, would the headboard still get around the turn up the stairs.
ok optical illusion then
jigsaws seldom do a good job
i personally would look for 3 or 4 strips off timber to go from just above the skirting towards the top off the top rail but about an inch below the top surface about 12mm narrower than the uprights and about 15-18mm thick otherwise your joints will tend to flex
if you screw the strips on then you can remove them at a later date
Yes its an optical illusion alright. I will buy a new hand saw for the job and try and follow some sort of guide.
What your suggesting sounds ok however im concerned the slats wont come off very easily, they are thick and look like they are well glued in to, i would maybe end up doing more damage that way.
Its a rented house so i cant knock out any walls im afraid.
I have an Ikea mattress coming but its only the cheaper ranges that are rolled up, i already asked this, the one im getting is £390 and comes as you see it.
The headboard is on its side. You can see how thick the slats are and they dont look like they will pull out easy either.
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click image upload
This is a view of the side, no joints are obvious on any of the faces.
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click image upload
click image uploadThis is a view of the side, no joints are obvious on any of the faces.
click image upload
There is no way you will be able to "take it to pieces".
That is my thoughts too. It looks like a vertical cut on the top and bottom boards is the way to go. Perhaps screwing a thick bit of hardwood over each joint and as suggested some vertical support for rigidity. I could put glue in the joint to disguise the gap, it will pull apart easy enough in the future. What would be the best saw for cutting the oak headboard?
Well, a sliding chop saw would be best.
Could you take it to a professional and get them to do it for you?
They may be able to fit dowels or a mortice so you can put it back together rigidly.
Or -
Is the cut that important?
You could do it as well as you can with a jig-saw and, as I suggested, cover with a decorative piece.
Could you take it to a professional and get them to do it for you?
They may be able to fit dowels or a mortice so you can put it back together rigidly.
Or -
Is the cut that important?
You could do it as well as you can with a jig-saw and, as I suggested, cover with a decorative piece.
I dont have any transport that would take my headboard. I dont mind doing the cut, its 60mm wide so quite thick. I could try and fit a few dowels accurately on each joining face. I can find something to cover the joint. It wont be in the middle as the slats dont allow that, i can worry about that later. Jigsaws dont do so well on thick wood, the other end of the blade tends to wonder.
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