New Wooden Headboard Needs Split In 2 Professionally, Joiner Or DIY?

Looking back through the thread:

for quite a decent-looking headboard,
a person with few tools,
rudimentary woodworking skills,
nowhere to work in,

paying a pro might have been the best course of action.
 
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still confuse why a headboard off say 6ft wide cannot go upright through the door unless there is sloping low ceiling full length off the stairs:rolleyes:
 
still confuse why a headboard off say 6ft wide cannot go upright through the door unless there is sloping low ceiling full length off the stairs:rolleyes:
Most double beds are 4'-6", so say this was a king size bed at 5', but because it is roughly 3' in height so we are looking at a piece of thick board 5' x 3', that needs to negotiate a 90 degree bend as well as meet steep steps, I still think it could have been done, even a 6 foot lond board which is about a height of a person, but a person is only roughly 1 foot back to front when standing, so this one is 3 foot back to front, if you visulise it as a person, I am sure it could have gone through a 3 to 4foot wide open window, roped up.

may be OP wanted to show us his skills! (only joking OP)
 
I am waiting on a place calling me back with a price on 2 pieces of oak 180 x 1300 x 25 and 120 x 1200 x 25. If its going to be a bit expensive then i will try another hardwood. Using pine looks a bit cheap in my opinion, i would like something better for aesthetics lol.

To the comments already made regarding other ways of getting it upstairs, its impossible, do you think i would post on here and cut it in half if i had not tried everything i could. Give me strength lord.
 
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good idea

it will never fit up my staircase



The oak is too expensive at nearly 100 quids inc vat and about 80 for Indigbo wood. Cripes that a lot for a couple of bits of wood.
 
I am waiting on a place calling me back with a price on 2 pieces of oak 180 x 1300 x 25 and 120 x 1200 x 25. If its going to be a bit expensive then i will try another hardwood. Using pine looks a bit cheap in my opinion, i would like something better for aesthetics lol.

To the comments already made regarding other ways of getting it upstairs, its impossible, do you think i would post on here and cut it in half if i had not tried everything i could. Give me strength lord.

LOL if that picture is true reflection of how small it is, you couldn't get an ant up there! :)
No we love how people find ways around obstructions, but you chose to cut your bed in half, i would have taken the roof down and hired a crane to lower the bed down! (Lol)

we want to see the end results, that's what matters! Sleep well!
 
LOL if that picture is true reflection of how small it is, you couldn't get an ant up there! :)
No we love how people find ways around obstructions, but you chose to cut your bed in half, i would have taken the roof down and hired a crane to lower the bed down! (Lol)

we want to see the end results, that's what matters! Sleep well!

Its not my house so not possible to modify anything, i private rent.
 
Ben following this with interest and now you have done the deed and also thought/been advised on the best way to make good again I would just like to point out that one section is hollow. It may be a good idea to use some form of rawplug suitable for hollow walls in order to make a secure fixing.
 
I suppose they are both hollow.

Can you remove the packer/strengthener - I don't expect it's very deep - and fit the joining piece inside?
 
I suppose they are both hollow.

Can you remove the packer/strengthener - I don't expect it's very deep - and fit the joining piece inside?

This has been suggested but i dont have the gear to do a proper job, i was going to make this plan B if the fitting of 2 thick boards did not work or is not rigid enough.

Will this wood do the job please see link, usually b&q are mega for wood but these oak furniture board are the right length and i would just need to buy one, its 300 wide and i need 180w and 120w so i would get the 2 pieces out of the one board.

http://www.diy.com/departments/oak-square-edge-furniture-board-l1200mm-w300mm-t25mm/1015744_BQ.prd
 
To get the two pieces you want will require cutting down the full length of the board. It does seem suitable but reading the review at the bottom of the page shows it was not quite what the buyer wanted. If you go for it take a tape measure and make sure its exactly what you want. Also look down the length of the board to check for warping or twisting.

"
1 out of 5 stars.
· 10 months ago
Not as described


Ordered two pieces, very poor quality with bark as part of the board!!! The width was only 250mm not 300mm as stated as well. Another two boards ordered by the store, condition was slightly better, but still only 250mm wide. Got a refund. "
 
looking at your pics of the cut pieces - why is half the top rail hollow and the other half filled with timber? or am I looking at it wrong. Given there is a hollow core, you need to get this bit 100% bang on or you'll end up with something that will never be right. The lower rail is less of an issue (assume its solid) ie a long brace of timber behind it.....

Re. BQ - I"ve seen these boards instore. Theres plenty on display so presume a case of sifting through and getting the right one BUT it does need to be flat ie not cupped or twisted and knowing timber in the sheds thats a tall order! You're on the right track looking at that type of material though..
 
conny thanks for the heads up re that review, i read your reply before going to b&q, i went to B&Q yesterday knowing it was not the size stated, sadly as i forgot my wallet, we only had enough to buy one board and i could not buy screws either, i may have some screws but not the heavy ones i was going to buy No6 x50mm. Anyway i got one straight board in good condition, it is actually 210mm and not 250mm or 300mm.

matz you are seeing correctly, it just so happens that where i cut, it was right beside the strengthening block, god knows why it was not in the middle. I will need to buy another board the next time im at b&q but this one board will get me started and ill use what screws i have.

edit - i was out today so picked up another board from B&Q and this one is 20mm wider at 230mm, i also got the screws i need, I will use 3 rows of 13 screws on the top board, they will be 100mm apart, i will start 15mm either side of the cut.

edit - i posted a review on the b&q website and it was knocked back for not meeting their guidelines. I wrote 'BUYER BEWARE WRONG SIZE
I read the previous review stating the board was not the correct width, so i went to a warehouse that stocks these boards, i got one that was nice and straight but the width was only 210mm. I would advise buying instore and see what your actually getting.'
 
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Sorry for the delay in getting this done but i had other things to do, you know how it is. Anyway i got this bed built at last and im pleased to say it is very sturdy indeed and you really need to push hard to make the joint flex. I ended up with a little gap at the top but it was hard to avoid, the top surface is bang on though and the front face is flush too. I just need a little wood filler in the gap and judge how it looks, if it is still a bit obvious i will find something decorative to cover it with.

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