New Wooden Headboard Needs Split In 2 Professionally, Joiner Or DIY?

my thoughts are
go for foaming pu glue cut a block to within 2mm off the open void size and perhaps 6" long
coat the surface with a 1mm bead on all surfaces in a zig zag pattern
push the block in and fully seal the open end surface with plastic to stop foaming outside on the surface
after about a day remove the plastic an clean the face then use dowels
in my humble opinion no doweled and dismantleable options will be solid enough in use
if you can add batons to the back for strength then fine or batons to lean on the wall to stop flexing you should be ok
 
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my thoughts are
go for foaming pu glue cut a block to within 2mm off the open void size and perhaps 6" long
coat the surface with a 1mm bead on all surfaces in a zig zag pattern
push the block in and fully seal the open end surface with plastic to stop foaming outside on the surface
after about a day remove the plastic an clean the face then use dowels
in my humble opinion no doweled and dismantleable options will be solid enough in use
if you can add batons to the back for strength then fine or batons to lean on the wall to stop flexing you should be ok

Im afraid i have to keep the repair simpler, i dont have a shed or work bench, im kind of restricted to a handsaw, drill, holding things by hand, screwing and so on. I was intending to add a bit of thick hardwood to the back of the top and bottom rails, making it nice and long to hopefully avoid any flexing. I would like to get something inside but it becomes a bit complicated for me due to a lack of space and tools. If after doing this it still flexes i will need to consider fixing a block on the other hollow side. At least it will let me build the bed sooner and see how it is.

Or,

Glue a wedge into the hollow side, drill two or three 10mm holes into both sides, and "dowel" them with threaded rods or something suitable?

The fitting a wedge is a bit out of my capability due to my lack of tools and space as i described above. I can drill and fit dowels etc and do any screwing together.

Chisel it out to a depth of a couple or three inches, perhaps?

Same again i dont really have the gear to do this.
 
ok go for maybe added rubber strip horizontal over the joint for a few inches and at each end in from the top and ends about 2" so when the bed is in position with the legs touching the skirting the rubber will "lean" on the wall and give support
 
hopefully I've followed this thread enough to comment but if you are adding a length of timber to the rear of a rail to enable the frame to be put back together solidly, make sure you have a nice long piece of wood (18" either side of the join at least) of a thick section that wont flex and use a copious amount of screws and make sure you pilot the holes for the screws well so the screws draw the timber brace nice and tight.
 
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Sorry Matz, the wood needs to be the width of the bed in order to provide the necessary stability - unles you're sleeping on your own of course. But the copious amount of screws is right.
 
Sorry Matz, the wood needs to be the width of the bed in order to provide the necessary stability - unles you're sleeping on your own of course. But the copious amount of screws is right.
fair comment cant argue with that, the longer the better....
 
Good job you haven't got a pet Elephant, if you can't get your headboard up, there is no way you could take him to sleep in your bed!
there are 16Million possibilities, have you tried all of them before cutting up your HB ?
 
Ok guys many thanks for all the info. I will get a hold of some hardwood and screw it on very well using heavy screws and a lot of screws, the wood will be as long as possible to help with rigidity. Will my local wood supplier be able to supply me with some kind of hardwood suitable for the job or should i stick to oak? If another hardwood can be used what is a good choice and low cost.

After the bed is built i can test to see how rigid it is, if it needs further work then we can take it from there, all going well it wont need further work but adding some rubber pads between the wall should help avoid any movement too.
 
on the bottom rail i would just use 4x1"[20x95mm] or what ever size pine fits in as it wont be seen
for the top you need a close strait grained bit off timber it dosnt have to be hardwood just heavy for its size
 
Have you tried taking it up with the legs up in the air? not your legs, the head boards's legs, failing that try yours as well.just in case, you never know and then you can't say you didn't try! For God's sake please don't cut it or you will end up screwing it! :D
Just knock a brick or two out of the wall or ceiling where it is just catching, and patch it up after, don't cut your head board.
 
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Have you tried taking it up with the legs up in the air? not your legs, the head boards's legs, failing that try yours as well.just in case, you never know and then you can't say you didn't try! For God's sake please don't cut it or you will end up screwing it! :D
Just knock a brick or two out of the wall or ceiling where it is just catching, and patch it up after, don't cut your head board.
too late the deed is done
 
too late the deed is done
lol! I missed a few pages, and missed all that fun him chopping it in half, he did pretty good job of it though! oh well, problem is his steps are very high, I counted about 10 steps where normally you would need about 13 steps.
 
lol! I missed a few pages, and missed all that fun him chopping it in half, he did pretty good job of it though! oh well, problem is his steps are very high, I counted about 10 steps where normally you would need about 13 steps.
the chippie in side me was screaming with pain at the thought :eek:
but the helpful in me said "dont kick a man when he is down":rolleyes:
 
I assume this house has a downstairs bathroom or how would the bath have been taken upstairs?
 
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