Oil boiler in utility room 'a bit smelly'

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Thanks boffin, that makes more sense now!

Is the board vermiculite? And would vitcas fire blanket (which we sell at work) do the same job ??

Cheers
 
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www.heating-parts.co.uk do a kosher door insulation slab for around £20.
I guess you could use another cemented fireproof board such as Supalux or whatever but the thickness is important - so the door compresses the slab onto the flange.
John :)
 
If you replace firebird combustion chamber insulation then ensure that no POC leak from the CC access door. I always use my flue gas analyser to prove this.
 
Any?

The first monkey I had round claimed that a flue analyser could not pick up minor leaks from the baffle door seal.

Seems he was a liar and/or completely incompetent.

How tight should I go when doing up the nuts on the burner door? Until it bottoms out or just finger tight?

Cheers
 
How do you know that it has properly sealed??

Is it something that I am best getting a real engineer to do so that he can test it flue gas analyser?

I don't mind paying but I have had 2 monkeys around so far and I am not guaranteed that the next one won't be a monkey too... although he seems to be more with it based on what you gents have advised.

Steven
 
If you have the rope seal, then you can trim the insulation where it has compressed to accept the rope. Tighten the nuts finger tight, then nip up a turn at a time until you feel moderate resistance with a short spanner, then take it another turn, finishing it diagonally, top left bottom right, top right , bottom left. Make sure all nuts are evenly tight. This will give a better seal than the fibreboard and is more demountable.
 
I'm slightly concerned that this advice is being given to a DIYer who cannot prove that POC a will not be leaking from his boiler.

I replace Firebird ceraboard day in day out and I am obsessive about the fit and potential for leaking POC.

Depending on how much sulphur etc has built up in CC will determine the position of the baffles and consequently the seal you can achieve on the ceraboard.

Why on earth is this DIY work being encouraged?
 
At least you can smell Kero fumes !!
It sounds like some of the "Oilies" on here make their own rules for convenience.
 
Andy I totally get your comment. Sadly the only reason I am asking questions is that the 2 'oftec engineers' I have had round have been completely useless. The first one told me that 'it don't smell that bad' and said his tester would not pick up leaks from the combustion chamber. He went on to suggest ripping out the units in the utility to check the flue was attached to the boiler properly. The fact that the fumey smell only arrived after he had opened the boiler up was lost on him.

The second one wanted to leave a tigerloop bio venting in my utility rooms despite the instructions stating that it has to have a copper pipe venting it to outside.

I have found an older guy who seems more with it and I am going to have him come round once his tester comes back from being calibrated. He suggested I did the seal myself.

I am only doing what I am doing because there was a distinct fumey smell emanating from boiler, which seems to have gone (for now) after I turned the slightly worn insulation board around.
I intend to get a new one and will get it fitted once the new guy has his tester back.

Hope that kind of makes sense. I am fairly handy but am aware of the dangers of fumes and do want a real engineer to sort it out. I am just having trouble getting a decent one.

Steven
 

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