Outlet for Oven and Ignition for Gas Hob

[SkyVanMan]

Evening all,

Been grafting away today on this re-wire.

As part of the kitchen refit my Dad has bought a single oven. Although this can be connected to a 13a supply, because I've got enough 10mm cable left over from the shower I figure I may as well put a 10mm cable in for the cooker circuit. However, this raises one possible problem.

I'm planning to run 10mm cable from the CU to a 1 gang 45a switch above worktop level. From there I'll run 10mm down to a 1 gang box below worktop level. However, once there, what do I do? I can't attach a 13a socket to this box because I doubt I'd fit 10mm cable into the terminals. Likewise, I can't attach a FCU eiher for the same reason. I don't think it would be good practice to fit a cooker outlet point and connect the cooker flex directly to this since the rating of the oven flex would be much lower than the 45a MCB protecting the circuit.

I was therefore thinking of taking a 2.5mm cable from the cooker outlet to a FCU and connecting the oven to this - would that be OK?

Alternatively, I was thinking of just using a 16a MCB in the CU for this circuit but that could cause future confusion if the house is ever sold.

Another question on this. Is there a way around having a separate isolator for the Gas Hob Ignition? I'm conscious of the fact that with all the above counter isolators, there's going to be little wall space (that wall won't need tiling due to the number of switches and sockets lol). I'm guessing it's probably not best practice but would it be acceptable to connect the Hob Ignition to the same FCU on the cooker circuit?

I'd thought of using the Hood FCU or the ashing Machine FCU but this is probably just as bad practice as my proposal and less logical. If it's acceptable to use one FCU to isolate two appliances then it seems more logical to have the Ignition and the Oven on the same isolator (which would actually be the 45a switch above worktop level, fused down to 13a below). Aternatively, could I take another FCU from the 13a FCU to which the Oven will be attached and attach the Hob to this (fused down to 3a)?

Apologies if I've not been able to explain myself above in an understanable manner - my head is mashed. Hopefully you'll be able to decipher the code.

Your thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated and welome.

Cheers.

 

[oharaf]

Sorry you're out of your depth!!!

Does the cooker have a plug on it? If so that needs to remain on otherwise your warranty is shot.

If you are that worried about isolation then add a fcu in the ring final and spur to a double skt.

 

[SkyVanMan]

Cheers oharaf,

I was originally planning on having the oven as part of the ring with a switched FCU above and a socket below but figure I should make provision for a larger load in the future given that I have enough 10mm cable left over.

However, my main issue is that there is going to be enough switches above counter level as it is so I either scrap the 10mm cooker circuit idea and go back to the original plan or I use 10mm but with a solution to connect the single oven to this (along with the Hob ignition if that's allowed).

Yes, the oven has a plug fitted. I was just going to cut this off but if that's a problem then I'll just fit a socket outlet instead of an FCU with flex outlet.

So would it be acceptable to take a spur from the cooker outlet, to a FCU and from there to a double socket to which I could plug in the oven and the hob together?

 

[phantombadger]

Change all your fcu for one multi gang box mk or something nice and tidy always a good idea to have cooker run just in case you change to a electric hob .

 

[oharaf]

Phantoms suggestion is the best. Run a cooker circuit in for the future, but don't connect it to the CU

 

[ColJack]

Change all your fcu for one multi gang box mk or something nice and tidy always a good idea to have cooker run just in case you change to a electric hob .

you mean something like this?
View media item 10929 View media item 10930
yes it's a frequent question so I have the pictures "on tap" as it were..

if you have a look in the MK spec pdf, you'll see that their sockets can take 3x2.5mm², 3 x 4mm², 2 x 6mm²...
while 10mm² isn't listed, it's a good bet that if it can take 2 x 6mm² then it'll take a 10mm² fairly easily..
you'll need a deep backbox though..

 

[SkyVanMan]

it's a good bet that if it can take 2 x 6mm² then it'll take a 10mm² fairly easily..
you'll need a deep backbox though..

Cheers Coljack,

I've fitted 47mm back boxes for the cooker circuit because I figured it would be a pain in the backside to fit any accessory.

In terms of the multi box things - wish I'd known about them sooner. All the boxes are sunk and a lot of the cable provisionally laid for the kitchen circuits and it would just be more effort than I can be bothered ith (given that I'm doing this for free in my spare time) to change it.

 

[phantombadger]

I wld terminate it now so it can be tested and labbled in the CU so as not to confuse matters in the future new owners etc cld presume the circuit faulty if it is not connected or evan connect it with out the testing it needs before its used etc..

 

[securespark]

Oharaf:

Wouldn't put the oven on the ring.


OP:

Why can't you put an MK double socket on the end of the feed?

Plug the oven into one side & the hob into the other.

 

[ColJack]

if you change the cooker conection unit on mine to another single socket you have what you need for oven and gas hob igniter, with the added advantage of being able to swap to a CCU and an electric hob later on if you want..

 

[ban-all-sheds]

That would mean getting 2 x 10mm² into the socket terminals...

 

[SkyVanMan]

Thanks for all the replies folks.

So I take it from the comments that it's not frowned upon then to have one isolation point for two appliances.

From the comments, I think the most sensible option is to change the 1 gang cooker outlet box below counter level for a 2 gang one and just attach a double socket. This means that wiring is already in place for future expansion and all that would need converting is the double socket into a cooker outlet point.

Thanks again, very useful.

 

[ColJack]

cooker outlet points don't fit a double box.. they only fit singles...

as for 2 x 10mm² BAS, we've discussed this ( not you and me, "we" as in the forum in general ), and you can wire the second single socket off the 10mm² with 2.5mm² or even 1.5mm² as it's load is limited by the fuse in the plug, and therefor the cable is protected..

 

[securespark]

Aside from my misgivings, I am not keen on this because two very different conductor sizes are difficult to secure in one terminal.

 

[ColJack]

10mm² would be stranded and should easily squish and reshape to grip the 2.5mm² as just another strand of it..

give it a good tug and see...