Porch Canopy

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Hi all.
I am going to replace my rotten porch with a new one but I also want to extend the porch canopy across the front of my garage.
The garage is integral and was built as part of an extension years ago.
My question is: what is the best method of constructing the canopy and fixings, ie, steel angle brackets (upside down gallows brackets) or brackets made with 3 x 2 wood. The wall is made from 10" breeze block with a sand and cement render.
I have been looking at resin ancors as fixings but am not sure what size would be needed.
The canopy will be unsupported, apart from the porch at one end, will be approx 6m across and tiled with red roofing tiles, not the very heavy concrete ones, but still heavy enough.
Any help advice appreciated.

Paul
 
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I thought it would be obvious, so they are hidden within the canopy structure. :!:
 
If you form mono-trusses and fix these to bearer timbers bolted to the wall (M10 expansion bolts every 500mm will do) , then the roof will be self-supporting.

And if you incorporate a suitable timber beam either within the trusses as a purlin, or along the fascia line, then this will prevent any sag of the eaves
 
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Thanks woody.
Do you mean bearer timbers top and bottom with the mono pitched trusses fixed to the bearers?
If so, does the truss require the vertical section between the two bearer timbers, and if so, wouldn't there be a gap the thickness if the bearer timber between the vertical section and the wall?
How would you fix the mono-trusses to the bearer timbers?
Is 3 x 2 substantial enough to use for the bearers and the mono-trusses?
Would you prefer M10 expansion bolts over the resin method and what length of expansion bolt would be needed if using 3 x 2?

Sorry so many questions.

Paul
 
Here we go


Either make the trusses flush and use splice plates, or as in the background one, you fix the timbers to the side of each other (except for one joint which should have a plate)

3x2 should be fine as it can be additionally fixed to the purlin.

Resin bolt are really for problem substrates. A good fixing with a standard expansion bolt will be fine.

But bear in mind that the above is only a guide, and you will have to confirm that sizes, fixings etc are suitable for your particular situation
 
Thanks woody, good picture.
What length of expansion bolt would be best to use?
Also, what is the best fixing for the top of the truss to the top bearer as I would imagine this would need to be quite substantial?

Paul
 
Yo want at least 50mm fixing into the wall

The rafter notches over the bearer and can be skew nailed from each side
 
Does anyone know where I can get M10 expansion bolts / studs approx 150mm long?
I have tried screwfix and a few others.

Thanks.

Paul
 
Screwfix do Sleeve Anchors and Shield Anchors and expansion plugs (you buy the bolt separate) so you should be able to get something there.

Wickes also sell them IIRC
 
Not sure that they will do the job now. I thought that you would be able to drill a hole, say 100mm into the block, place the expansion plug all the way in, 100mm, and then use 150mm bolt to fix through the 3x2.
I have looked on the Fischer web site and it says that the max depth is 40mm, the depth of the plug so that deosn't seem good enough.

Paul
 

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