hello,,,i have just moved into a house a couple of weeks ago and it has a range powermax 155,,,the whole system had been drained down about a year ago,,,it is tank fed from the attick,,,all I did was open the valve coming from the attick tank turned it on and bled the rads and all has been working perfect until today,,,i went out this morning and turned the gas off at the mains as a precaution as I'm new to the property,,,anyway when I came in tonight I turned the hot water switch on to take a shower and after about ten mins realised the boiler hadn't fired an was on lockout,,,id forgot to turn the gas back on,,,now it just keeps going on lockout and wont fire even though the gas has been turned back on???,,,I cant seem to see a pressure guage anywhere to check the pressure either o does this model not have one??? as it is tank fed???,,,any ideas people???
powermax range 155 wont fire
- Thread starter sonofrob
- Start date
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No pressure gauge. Due to the nature of these appliances it's beyond DIY repair. All you can do is ensure gas is on. These boilers require expert attention. Call someone in and mention the appliance. Many will not touch them. BG will attend.
heating engineer came today and will return with parts in a few days,,,trying electrode first then maybe a new gas valve,,,I have a question,,,can anyone tell me what the replacement gas valve would be for my range powermax 155???,,,I have downloaded the parts list for the 155x as it is the only one I can find,,,im wondering if they are the same or not???,,,there are some on ebay called sigma 848 part number p090,,,and supposed to be for a 155,,,and says direct replacement for p627 or p618,,,but in the 155x parts list I downloaded the gas valve is p742,,,???,,,can someone help me out please so I can get on ordered,,,,,,here is a pic of the same gas valve as on my boiler...
thats why you got a gas engineer for 
jesus, let the man do his job . you don't even know its a gas valve needed yet , then you will be wasting money as that is what your worried about . i wouldn't fit parts you supplied which could be from anywhere
jesus, let the man do his job . you don't even know its a gas valve needed yet , then you will be wasting money as that is what your worried about . i wouldn't fit parts you supplied which could be from anywhereSponsored Links
can any of you gas lads who are familliar with the powermax 155 tell me what the direct replacement is for the gas valve please,,,would the sigma 848 part no po90 replace the one above in the picture???,,,here is a pic of the sigma 848...
i thought your gas engineer is doing the repair because he would know which valve you need , i wouldn't be tempted to fit the gas valve yourself .could you give me the name of your delivery company because i could do with a company that delivers that fast
you could try keep pressing reset on boiler ( wait 10-15 secs between reset ) as it may need purging if your lucky
you could try keep pressing reset on boiler ( wait 10-15 secs between reset ) as it may need purging if your lucky
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Yep. Try purging first but only by hitting reset - no tinkering inside!
i wouldnt dream of fitting it myself mate,,,im just trying to think ahead and get as much information as I can,,,if ever I have a problem with anything I try to learn about and understand it best I can,,,i was reading on another site it may be the water level switch that has cut the gas valve off???,,,maybe needs new waterlevel switch???,,,or is that only on the sealed system version???,,,any thoughts???
if it was the water level switch i would of expected the engineer wouldn't be coming back with electrodes or gas valve
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do me a favour mate if ye haven't got anything positive or helpful to say please keep off this thread,,,a property I bought a couple of years ago had an old chaffoteaux 80 in it which wouldn't fire,,,i had three so called gas engineers look at it and all said needed new boiler and didn't have a clue what was wrong with it,,,after a few nights reading up on the problems these boilers have I spent ten minutes cleaning all the iron oxide off the copper gauze filter which was blocked and the boilers been perfect ever since,,,so forgive me for using my own brain to try and figure this out and not taking a gas engineers word for it......
Don't think you have a level switch. It's on the sealed system not the OV.
There is a reasonable troubleshooting guide in the manual.
As stated do NOT compromise the integrity of the combustion process but no harm in understanding what is wrong.
If you have an engineer prepared to look at it then you have already done well, just hang in there.
There is a reasonable troubleshooting guide in the manual.
As stated do NOT compromise the integrity of the combustion process but no harm in understanding what is wrong.
If you have an engineer prepared to look at it then you have already done well, just hang in there.
no
, the engineer is going to love you with your fiddling , ask your engineer to check the aav , only giving you that one because its cold . see i aint that bad am i
.no
ask your engineer to check the aav , .
I don't think you have an AAV or a level switch.
As someone who is comfortable and experienced working on these rotboxes, I can confirm that they need very careful attention by someone who really does know what they're doing in order to keep them running smoothly and prevent them becoming dangerous. Setting up a replacement gas valve requires very sensitive equipment capable of taking multiple simultaneous readings
As for your particular situation, I have to say I'm somewhat concerned that your engineer has said he'll try X followed by Y if X doesn't work. He sounds more like a guesswork parts changer than someone with proper diagnostic skills familiar with your boiler. I suggest either employing someone else or making it very clear to him that you won't be paying for any parts which do not fix the problem. Either way, you're much better off allowing whoever you use to supply the parts to you, as it's then their responsibility to bear the financial cost of trying parts which turn out not to fix the issue. If they fit parts you've supplied, the financial burden is then with you and it could end up costing you significantly more
I'd be starting with a full strip and clean of your boiler before attempting any further diagnosis, then I'd be using a multimeter and testing/calibration equipment to check the correct operation of all components.
As for your particular situation, I have to say I'm somewhat concerned that your engineer has said he'll try X followed by Y if X doesn't work. He sounds more like a guesswork parts changer than someone with proper diagnostic skills familiar with your boiler. I suggest either employing someone else or making it very clear to him that you won't be paying for any parts which do not fix the problem. Either way, you're much better off allowing whoever you use to supply the parts to you, as it's then their responsibility to bear the financial cost of trying parts which turn out not to fix the issue. If they fit parts you've supplied, the financial burden is then with you and it could end up costing you significantly more
I'd be starting with a full strip and clean of your boiler before attempting any further diagnosis, then I'd be using a multimeter and testing/calibration equipment to check the correct operation of all components.
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