Repair kitchen door hinge - Pulled Screws?

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Hi guys, the screws have pulled from one of our kitchen doors and I wondered the best way to go about redoing this?

I trust a good quality wood filler, pilot into it and refix. However it just looks like a mess and I didn't want to make things worse.

Any tips you could share?

Many thanks! :)
 

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i expect the door and carcase are made of chipboard or similar with a laminate or vinyl coating

so do not use ordinary woodscews

do not use filler

do not use glue

If the hole is not greatly enlarged, Euroscrews (which are the corrct screw for this job) can be used.

They are of quite large diameter and have a deep coarse thread

They will only go into pre-drilled pilot holes of the correct diameter and length.

The backplate of your hinges will determine what diameter you can use, and also the shape of the screwhead that fits. You want the length that, after going through the backplate, will not quite go all the way through the panel and poke out the other side.

You can buy Euroscrews in smallish numbers on ebay. Get enough that you have spares handy for future use. A couple of dozen or so. The pricing is arranged so that price per screw is higher for small orders.

They look like this:
1659432515239.png
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If the panel is too mangled to use screws again in the old holes, you need a hinge repair plate, which is steel and is screwed to the panel with multiple screws, and the hinge is screwed to the reinforcing plate.

On ebay again, or some hardware merchants

they look like this:

1659432684229.png
1659432684229.png
 
Hi guys, the screws have pulled from one of our kitchen doors and I wondered the best way to go about redoing this?

I trust a good quality wood filler, pilot into it and refix. However it just looks like a mess and I didn't want to make things worse.

Any tips you could share?

Many thanks! :)
Looks like it’s a side panel not a door?
 
Looks like it’s a side panel not a door?

Agreed it looks like the hinge holes on the side panel.

I had to repair a 1.8m wardrobe door a couple of weeks ago. I had a combination of screws that had ripped from the carcase and door. Based on the advice offered up from @JobAndKnock , I glued in wooden dowels. The dowels were sufficiently tight enough to enable me to hang the door half an hour later (using very slightly longer screws).

Fortunately, I already had a Japanese flush cut saw to trim the wooden dowels back. The beauty of doing it that way is that the repair is "invisible".

Getting back to the OP. .. Assuming that the side panel butts up to another panel, he could just use longer screws which will run in to the other carcass/panel. I assume that the side panels are 19mm thick (2x19=38mm), meaning that 30mm or 35mm screws will be fine. If there is a hinge on the other side of the panel then I would set the screws a tad higher to reduce the risk of the screws hitting each other.
 
Hi guys and thanks for the helpful replies. It is indeed a side panel rather than the door.

I was just out near screw fix so picked up a hinge repair plate only to discover its not what I need. (my bad)

Unfortunately there is only one side panel as the dishwasher is next.

Within the hinge repair kit are some of the larger grub screws as photoed and mentioned above. The holes are in a bit of a mess and I'm wondering if I'm likely to make things worse thing to drive these in?

Would I be best drilling the hole out and glueing a dowel in?

Thanks!
 
Hi guys and thanks for the helpful replies. It is indeed a side panel rather than the door.

I was just out near screw fix so picked up a hinge repair plate only to discover its not what I need. (my bad)

Unfortunately there is only one side panel as the dishwasher is next.

Within the hinge repair kit are some of the larger grub screws as photoed and mentioned above. The holes are in a bit of a mess and I'm wondering if I'm likely to make things worse thing to drive these in?

Would I be best drilling the hole out and glueing a dowel in?

Thanks!

The dowel option worked for me but you will need a way to trim it back (unless you cut it before hammering it in).

My saw is similar to this

https://www.axminstertools.com/shokunin-japanese-flushcut-saw-125mm-105019

but you can get them for about a tenner.

IMO, the metal plates are pretty ugly but if you want to use them, I believe that the "euro screw" fits to the plate and doesn't care about the chipboard, meaning that you drill a hole for the screw to clear. The other 4 holes are to fix the plate to the carcass. In other words the state of the existing holes is of little consequence.
 
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Hi there, I would be able to cut the dowel prior or send it through as the other side would be hidden. Did you have any issues screwing into the dowel? Did you pilot it first? Also could I ask what glue you used to secure?

I do not think that this particular hinge repair plate would work due to the alignment of the original holes. Unless I'm missing something on how they are used?

Thank you :)
 

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Did you have any issues screwing into the dowel? Did you pilot it first? Also could I ask what glue you used to secure?
Because the dowel is beech, you do need to pilot drll it. D3 PVA will do the job of glueing the dowel in - try to leave it for 24 hours to set fully before pilot driling
 
^^^ As above ^^^

Personally, I used the Gorilla PVA glue. Meh, I like the bottle and have been happy with it over the years- I don't use a lot though.

I did pilot drill. From memory, i used a 3.5mm screw and a 1.5mm pilot. I worked on the assumption that the plug would swell slightly as the screw went in- without splitting (I didn't have the time to wait 24 hours for the glue to cure).
 

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