Safety Check Weirdness

Why, why, why did you commission a gas safety check? When selling a house it is up to the buyer to commission surveys, safety checks etc at his/her expense.

The so called qualified electrician does not seem to know that a fuse is to protect the cable, not the appliance on the end of it. Any cable that is only good for 3 amps would not be legal in the UK so the 3 amp fuse requirement is rubbish. Ask him what happens overseas where it would be wired direct to a 16 amp circuit.
 
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Have you been given a gas safety cert for your £90.00. Or are you being held over a barrel to get the works done before one is issued.
 
Why, why, why did you commission a gas safety check? When selling a house it is up to the buyer to commission surveys, safety checks etc at his/her expense.

Just found out that the buyer just wanted the boiler serviced, not safety checked, garbled message from the estate agent a week ago.
The theory is that the buyer does the safety checks, but in the real world it would be the seller that suffers huge costs if the buyer pulls out of the deal.

However he is in the building trade, so I have asked her to make him aware of what is going on, and to ask him if he just wants to exchange contracts and then get the work done at his leisure, and most probably a fraction of the cost.
 
The theory is that the buyer does the safety checks, but in the real world it would be the seller that suffers huge costs if the buyer pulls out of the deal.

But he wouldn't would he unless:

1. It was something really serious.
2. He probably didn't really want your house anyway, in which case he would have pulled out later anyway.

Would you, as a buyer, trust a safety check commissioned by a seller?
 
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I wouldn't but some might.

The work that apparently needs doing is minor, especially for someone in the trade. Just two grommets, chisel away a few mm of brickwork, and install a fuse. As long as he is made aware, which he will be, I have been transparent and the contracts can be exchanged.
 
why did he not change the bloody fuse ...takes seconds....and never heard such a load of crap over is it or isnt it a 3degree slope...he is rippin the p.
 
Fuse size for an ignition unit presumably?, sounds like a newly qualified penis who has just finished reading the books
 
Just an update.
I have sent three emails to Vaillant with pics asking them whether the flue is legit or not but not yet received a reply. It has been installed horizontally as per the manual and has never failed a check so I am assuming it is ok. Sent the same pics to Gas Safe. They aren't interested. If it was a safety issue they would have been on it like a ton of bricks.
The missing 'seals' that he told me were a safety issue are nothing of the sort. They are simply grommets that can be removed for cabling, in my case the wireless thermostat. They do not bridge an airtight cavity. They are described as packing rings in the parts manual, not seals. I have replaced them anyway. Took 2 minutes. They cost £4.
The hob had been run off a spur to the oven. Yes, it should be on a separate 3 amp circuit. He started off talking about installing a new cooker switch and changing the fusebox?? Then wanted to install a switched fuse behind the built in oven, and retain the spur. This would have been replacing one dodgy set up with another? I simply disconnected the spur, stuck a 3 amp plug on the end and plugged it in to a wall socket behind the fridge, as per original fitting instructions. Took 15 minutes. Cost £0.
The earth is an NCS. No work required.
Sent a pic of the 'potentially leaky gas hob isolation valve' to an ex BG engineer friend. The tester had all four burners going at full tilt and there was no pressure drop. My friend tells me that this is a pass, not a fail. There is nothing unapproved about the valve at all.

I found a review of the guys work on the internet, it was like reading a Hammer House of Horrors tale, and had cost the reviewer a fortune to get work put right. I just wish I had seen it earlier.

So the total cost of making the system legit was £4, a bit cheaper than almost £600 (and he would not confirm that it would not exceed that).
 
Just an update.
I have sent three emails to Vaillant with pics asking them whether the flue is legit or not but not yet received a reply. It has been installed horizontally as per the manual and has never failed a check so I am assuming it is ok. Sent the same pics to Gas Safe. They aren't interested. If it was a safety issue they would have been on it like a ton of bricks.
The missing 'seals' that he told me were a safety issue are nothing of the sort. They are simply grommets that can be removed for cabling, in my case the wireless thermostat. They do not bridge an airtight cavity. They are described as packing rings in the parts manual, not seals. I have replaced them anyway. Took 2 minutes. They cost £4.
The hob had been run off a spur to the oven. Yes, it should be on a separate 3 amp circuit. He started off talking about installing a new cooker switch and changing the fusebox?? Then wanted to install a switched fuse behind the built in oven, and retain the spur. This would have been replacing one dodgy set up with another? I simply disconnected the spur, stuck a 3 amp plug on the end and plugged it in to a wall socket behind the fridge, as per original fitting instructions. Took 15 minutes. Cost £0.
The earth is an NCS. No work required.
Sent a pic of the 'potentially leaky gas hob isolation valve' to an ex BG engineer friend. The tester had all four burners going at full tilt and there was no pressure drop. My friend tells me that this is a pass, not a fail. There is nothing unapproved about the valve at all.

I found a review of the guys work on the internet, it was like reading a Hammer House of Horrors tale, and had cost the reviewer a fortune to get work put right. I just wish I had seen it earlier.

So the total cost of making the system legit was £4, a bit cheaper than almost £600 (and he would not confirm that it would not exceed that).

That all makes sense, apart from the 4 burners/no pressure drop/potential leak. Different concerns being mixed up there. Although I agree the guy is either dishonest or stupid. Everything you said had occurred to me, but the Vaillant flue instructions that I found are confusing to say the least.

Is the guy definitely a RGI? Did you check credentials?
 
I didn't check his credentials, but his warning certificate has his Gas Safe number on it. I gave Gas Safe his credentials so its up to them where they go with that, all that they said to me was that they could not comment on installations, and that the manufacturers are the only people who can advise. I am guessing that most people assume that if someone is Gas Safe registered then they are also bound by a code of conduct, not inventing things that need doing etc. This isn't the case, they take regular tests, but anything that they do once qualified is nothing to do with Gas Safe unless it is unsafe. They can quote as much as they want for work, fail anything they like etc. Gas Safe aren't interested in that side of things, it's more Trading Standards. All I am interested in is a boiler service, and have been given numbers of two good local firms, so I will get that done next week. Ok, I am paying twice, but that is a cross I will have to bear. The individual who left the review on the web never got a penny back from the guy despite having three manufacturers inspect a bathroom installation and sending their own people to put everything right.

I totally agree about the Vaillant instructions, I am probably of above average intelligence and can usually understand complex instructions (I used to design banking and stock exchange IT systems, my hobby is building radio controlled models), but how they have worded their guidance must confuse the hell out of anyone reading them. As long as the outer flue is horizontal or above, it has an internal flue angle that is downwards to the boiler of at least 1.5 degrees. This, combined with the 87 degree elbow gives 4.5 degrees, they recommend 3 degrees. Putting a spirit level on the collar will only be 'close' to accurate as unless the collar is absolutely square on the horizontal flue, even a 1mm out of true will give an angle reading error of more than 1-2 degrees over the length of the flue.
 

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