stairs lighting switches

Looking at the picture the reds appear to be in separate sides of the same terminal.
 
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A junction box installation is where all the connections between incoming and outgoing feeds and switch drops are made off in a junction box under the floor (or in a loft space) and only the switched feed (that which is live when the switch is closed) appears at the light fitting.

So if there is a break in the circuit, that junction box would be the place to start.

I'm wondering why there are 3 conductors at the live terminal though.
 
Updated photo of the light fitting, 2 reds, 2 blacks and one earth, both reds go to one terminal, the blacks go to the other 2, one to each, connected to the light. Looking at the fitting, the terminal where the green goes is marked as loop in, the terminal with the reds is marked with an E, and the blacks are in unmarked terminals.
 

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There's a lot of corrosion in that ceiling rose. I would be looking at replacing that with a new one.
 
I agree about the corrosion, I shall replace the fitting once I figure out the issues I am having with the light, other than that, any advice? Also any idea as to where I could find/easily access a junction box? And there is only one breaker in the fuse box for the lights, both upstairs and down.
 
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With the wiring at the switch and ceiling rose, I would not expect there to be a junction box. You need a multimeter set to measure AC volts. One lead on the terminal with the red wires, the other to the terminal where the blue wire goes. Should be 240 ish Volts all the time. If not do same test but with one lead on the red wires terminal the other on the terminal with the brown wire. If you don't get 240ish Volts on either of these tests, either there is a loose/corroded connection in the ceiling rose, or a loose/broken/ corroded connection at the light that is wired before this one. The wiring at the switch in post 15 looks correct.

See here for expected layout. Your light will be the 'dining room light'. Get power to the rose first, then worry about the switch later. I wish I was there, as I could have sorted it in the time it has take to type this post!
 
OK. I stand corrected. The first picture of the rose did not tell the whole story.

This is a loop in system, where all the connections are available at the ceiling rose.

Likely, either this light is on its own circuit and the fuse has gone or, as Echo has said, the feed has gone open circuit at the previous ceiling rose.
 
OK. I stand corrected. The first picture of the rose did not tell the whole story.

This is a loop in system, where all the connections are available at the ceiling rose.

Likely, either this light is on its own circuit and the fuse has gone or, as Echo has said, the feed has gone open circuit at the previous ceiling rose.
I can guarantee there is no separate fuse for this light, the fuse box is pictured and all switches are up, therefore it appears likely that the previous light holds the key to the problem, is this likely to be the lounge light?
 

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Difficult to say.

Why have you got a kitchen socket on a 6A breaker (unless it is a 5A socket)?
 
Difficult to say.

Why have you got a kitchen socket on a 6A breaker (unless it is a 5A socket)?
I am unsure as to what exactly the breaker connects to as this is what was here when I moved in, it appears to not be connected to anything in the kitchen or indeed to any sockets at all that I can find, turning it off does not affect anything inside the house,
 
Is it a fair assumption that if the RCD's have been shifted along to create a high integrity way and the labelling does not match, that the busbar arrangement is not original?

Damien, have you got a certificate passed on to you from the previous owner for that board?
 

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