no.
just add more material until it is dry enough.
just add more material until it is dry enough.
Using a cement mixer
- Thread starter ianhutchinson
- Start date
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I'm gonna be screeding over the weekend 
Should I dry mix 1st then add the water?
I understand the screed should be much drier than a concrete/mortar mix ... hence adding the water last to give me a bit more control over the end product?
Still add the water first. The secret is to get the correct amount of water you need for the mix. This depends on how wet you want the mix and how much water is in the sand.
Once you've sussed it just keep it to the same amount every time. When you tip the mix out, add the water straight away. Semi dry mixes tend to stick to the drum, so while you barrow the mix the drum gets washed.
Should I dry mix 1st then add the water?
I understand the screed should be much drier than a concrete/mortar mix ... hence adding the water last to give me a bit more control over the end product?
Still add the water first. The secret is to get the correct amount of water you need for the mix. This depends on how wet you want the mix and how much water is in the sand.
Once you've sussed it just keep it to the same amount every time. When you tip the mix out, add the water straight away. Semi dry mixes tend to stick to the drum, so while you barrow the mix the drum gets washed.
I
imamartian
I'm gobsmacked..... as a heavy duty diyer with his own cement mixer... i'm surprised that you lot recommend water first. My book (lol) even says add the aggregate first... surely all the measurements are by sand/aggragete x cement . Then at least water makes up the constituancy?
believe me, a pro would never add the water last. it prolongs the mixing time and means pratting about with the drum.
quite right too noseall
if you were frying an egg, you wouldn't heat the pan, put the egg in then add the oil, no, because you'd have a crap egg an a messy pan
if you get my train of thought
i know i should poach or boil for the healthier option
if you were frying an egg, you wouldn't heat the pan, put the egg in then add the oil, no, because you'd have a crap egg an a messy pan
if you get my train of thought
i know i should poach or boil for the healthier option
well be gobsmacked then. while your still waiting for it to mix and reading your book, were finishing up and going home!
I
imamartian
well be gobsmacked then. while your still waiting for it to mix and reading your book, were finishing up and going home!
I don't mind being wrong
that's why i like this site. So much to learn from the pro'sWish i'd have known this a couple of years ago though, when i was mixing the footings for my 3m x 4m conservatory - took me a whole day... didn't care what i was mixing towards the end.... but my conservatory is still there !
I just caught this thread and decided to join as this forum could be very useful.
I am building a 20'x12' hobby room in the garden this year.
I plan to buy a cement mixer rather than rent one. Something probably small to medium size. seem to be plenty on ebay etc.
My question is once the materials are in the drum, how do you know when you have the mix you need. Is it by the texture or plain material measuring?
Also for footings and a concrete floor, what additives should I consider.
Many thanks.
Garry
I am building a 20'x12' hobby room in the garden this year.
I plan to buy a cement mixer rather than rent one. Something probably small to medium size. seem to be plenty on ebay etc.
My question is once the materials are in the drum, how do you know when you have the mix you need. Is it by the texture or plain material measuring?
Also for footings and a concrete floor, what additives should I consider.
Many thanks.
Garry
if you are unsure then use a container to gauge the sand and cement.
it is good practice to do this all the time because less cement does tend to get added as people get tired/lazy late in the day.
face brickwork should always be gauged because the colour changes with the amount of cement added. (although its the sand that usually decides the colour)
does that answer what you mean?
the gauge box can be any size, just be careful not to over fill the mixer.
btw, learn quickly; how much water you need, so you can put it in first
it is good practice to do this all the time because less cement does tend to get added as people get tired/lazy late in the day.
face brickwork should always be gauged because the colour changes with the amount of cement added. (although its the sand that usually decides the colour)
does that answer what you mean?
the gauge box can be any size, just be careful not to over fill the mixer.
btw, learn quickly; how much water you need, so you can put it in first
Yeah mix your additives in a bucket with hose pressure. Add this liquid to mixer....then half the sand ....all the cement ......and rest of sand. Always remember...you can put more water in but you can`t take it out
The practice of mixing sand and cement together and then adding water goes back to the days of "hand mix" on two 8x4 spotboards. We dry mixed the sand/cement twice, then spread it out in a ring to put the hole in the middle for the water then pulled the "walls" of dry mix into the puddle etc etc.
This method was used for smaller jobs off site until electric mixers became generally available. The mortar was never quite as good though.
I`m sure more than me remember all this.......hopefully!
Alex
The practice of mixing sand and cement together and then adding water goes back to the days of "hand mix" on two 8x4 spotboards. We dry mixed the sand/cement twice, then spread it out in a ring to put the hole in the middle for the water then pulled the "walls" of dry mix into the puddle etc etc.
This method was used for smaller jobs off site until electric mixers became generally available. The mortar was never quite as good though.
I`m sure more than me remember all this.......hopefully!
Alex
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