Wiring Hell

[Jimbo]

I have a 3-gang, 2-way switch in my kitchen. One gang is the master switch of a 2-way setup for the lounge (the switch in the lounge itself is the slave). I want to convert this to a one-way setup, this would be easy if the kitchen switch was the slave not the master.

What's the best way of going about this? My initial tempation is to strip-connect the live, neutral and earth cables of the master feed to the red, blue and earth of the 3+E, effectively extending the T+E master feed to what is currently the slave switch. I know this is not the ideal solution, but would it be safe? I don't really want to rip up the floor upstairs because in some places it's laminate over floorboards and this is just one of many jobs in the kitchen I need to finish this weekend!!

The other gang appears to be a slave for something, but switching it has no effect anywhere and the wires aren't live so I plan to just wrap them in insulation tape and leave them in the switch box.

The final gang is a simple one-way switch for the kitchen light. I want to replace the whole arrangement with a single-gang dimmer for the kitchen, hence my need to make safe the wiring for the other gangs.

I have a sneaking suspicion that I've made the electricians among you cringe. I need advice!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I have a 3-gang, 2-way switch in my kitchen. One gang is the master switch of a 2-way setup for the lounge (the switch in the lounge itself is the slave). I want to convert this to a one-way setup, this would be easy if the kitchen switch was the slave not the master.

I take it that what you mean by "master" and "slave" is that your live feed and switched live to the lamp go in and out of the kitchen switch, and that the living room one is connected with the 3+E.

What's the best way of going about this? My initial tempation is to strip-connect the live, neutral and earth cables of the master feed to the red, blue and earth of the 3+E, effectively extending the T+E master feed to what is currently the slave switch. I know this is not the ideal solution, but would it be safe? I don't really want to rip up the floor upstairs because in some places it's laminate over floorboards and this is just one of many jobs in the kitchen I need to finish this weekend!!

That's basically what happens now with your switch - if it's all been wired up in the conventional way, the live feed is already connected to the yellow conductor, and the switched live to the blue. What I would do would be to use 10A choc-block connectors to replicate the function of the kitchen switch in one of its positions - i.e. [live feed + yellow] connected, [switched live + blue + the red from COM] connected.

The other gang appears to be a slave for something, but switching it has no effect anywhere and the wires aren't live so I plan to just wrap them in insulation tape and leave them in the switch box.

Don't do that - put them into two more choc-block terminals. Insulating tape is not a permanent solution, and although the wires are currently dead, you don't know what a future occupant might do to the other end, nor what a potential fault could introduce.

The final gang is a simple one-way switch for the kitchen light. I want to replace the whole arrangement with a single-gang dimmer for the kitchen, hence my need to make safe the wiring for the other gangs.

If the decor can stand it I would strongly advise fitting a second patress to take the new dimmer switch rather than trying to fit that, and all the wires and connectors into the existing one. Cover the old one with a blanking plate.
As a favour to any future wirers, I would document what you've done on a couple of small notes inside the kitchen & LR patresses.

I have a sneaking suspicion that I've made the electricians among you cringe. I need advice!

I think my solution is perfectly safe, and I'd be quite happy with it in my house. A better method would be to use proper ratcheted crimps, but that is going to be an expensive solution for just a few wires. Also there may be something in the wiring regs or guidance notes which say you shouldn't do what I've suggested. I think it qualifies as "All joints must be durable, adequate for their purpose, and mechanically strong", but I'm not an expert.

 

[Jimbo]

Thanks for the reply. I managed to squeeze all the choc-blocks etc. into the existing pattress okay, so left it as a single. And everything works so I'm a happy man!

Jim