Wiring modular switche

[endecotp]

a 2G modular frame with a single unswitched 13a outlet and a switch which switches an outlet in another location

Madness.

 

[JohnW2]

Mine is red - I have no plans to get any more colours.

Mine is also red.

Kind Regards, John

 

[milbo1990]

Sorry to resurrect this - having now spoken with the manufacturer direct - 16a DP switches are what I need. These have the terminals 'live 1' and 'com' and the manufacturer reassures me that they're normally used for what I want.

So - does anyone know how I get the live feed to my switch and what to do with the neutral going to the appliance socket? See first page if this doesn't make sense.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Taylortwocities]

This does not make sense. Which manufacturer are you talking to? What model of switch?
Normally one would use 20A DP switches. DP switches allow both the live and the neutral both to be switched and terminated.

 

[JohnW2]

16a DP switches are what I need.

This does not make sense. ... Normally one would use 20A DP switches. DP switches allow both the live and the neutral both to be switched and terminated.

The OP seems to be proposing to use a DP switch. It's all a bit confusing, but I think each of these switches will be controlling a single (13A) plug/socket. If that's the case, then 16A switches would presumably be adequate, wouldn't they?

Kind Regards, John

 

[Taylortwocities]

Yes, 16A switch would be sufficient, I suppose. But I have never seen a DP 16A grid switch. Why would they make such a thing?
Eaton do a twin switch 16A switch module but it is SP only.


PS I am still strugling with the need for this. A double DP switched socket will do exactly the same thing, without all this badinage.

 

[milbo1990]

They're RPP Easyclick switches, from City Electrical Factors. They do produce 16a switches with appliance names printed onto them - so I've got no reason to disbelieve that these are the correct switches.

So do I just run a live feed from the 13a outlet module to the 'live1' terminal, run the live supply to the appliance socket from the 'com' terminal and put the neutral into a terminal block? Seems a bit dodgy to me!

 

[JohnW2]

Yes, 16A switch would be sufficient, I suppose. But I have never seen a DP 16A grid switch.

Nor have I, but the OP appears to be referring to one.

Why would they make such a thing?

Your guess is a good as mine - maybe for uses such as the OP proposes?

PS I am still strugling with the need for this. A double DP switched socket will do exactly the same thing, without all this badinage.

Agreed, electrically - but I think the perceived issue may be that the DP switch on the socket would not be accessible.

Kind Regards, John

 

[milbo1990]

PS I am still strugling with the need for this. A double DP switched socket will do exactly the same thing, without all this badinage.

I was originally told by a kitchen fitter friend that you have to be able to remotely switch integrated appliances. If that's not the case, I've always got the option of fitting normal 2G 13a outlets with the appliances spurred off each. That said, I'd like to make this work if I can.

 

[milbo1990]

[QUOTE="Taylortwocities, post: 3426534, member: 36058] But I have never seen a DP 16A grid switch. [/QUOTE]

How do you identify a DP switch, over an SP?

 

[securespark]

They have incoming and outgoing terminals marked with an "N".

 

[Taylortwocities]

1. its written on the description/specification. And I retract my post above. The CEF/RPP switch is indeed a 16A DP switch.
2. the DP (double pole) switch will have 4 terminals. 2 for the supply in, and 2 for the load out connection (to the socket in your case).
Here's a description Double Pole Switches & Cooker Control Units - MK Electric

So you would have somewhere to connect your neutral connections.

 

[JohnW2]

1. its written on the description/specification. And I retract my post above. The CEF/RPP switch is indeed a 16A DP switch.

Don't feel bad - as I said, FWIW, I've never seen or heard of one, either!

Kind Regards, John

 

[securespark]

But we all know we cannot connect DP switches <32A that are not to BS1363 to a 32A circuit...

[Dive for cover...]

 

[JohnW2]

But we all know we cannot connect DP switches <32A that are not to BS1363 to a 32A circuit... [Dive for cover...]

Hmmmm It's probably best if the OP does not let himself get confused by that statement! If one did take that view, there would be very few uses for 20A DP switches, yet they are ubiquitous!

There is certainly nothing in the regs that says that only BS1363 accessories can be connected to a ring final (if that's what we are talking about) - and the 'current rating' of a switch presumably relates to the current passing through the switch (in the OP's case limited by a 13A downstream fuse), regardless of the OPD (32A or otherwise) of the circuit feeding it.

Kind Regards, John