Would this be possible?

[Madrab]

Looks like it's been leaking out from around the nut. Was there any water on the floor below it, If not it may have stopped.

I think the more concerning thing about it, from a central heating perspective, is the colour of the system water, that isn't good.

 

[bettz1]

Looks like it's been leaking out from around the nut. Was there any water on the floor below it, If not it may have stopped.

I think the more concerning thing about it, from a central heating perspective, is the colour of the system water, that isn't good.

No water but the grout had a tiny orange stain, noticed the spare bedroom is the same a little mark, but no water.

This doesn't sound good

All the tiles are up now, just a little to clear once i take the basin out

 

[Madrab]

There you go, plenty of pipe there to cut it tight to the base of the fitting and then do the re-route. Is there play on the pipe up and down? If so you'll need a way to hold the pipe tight from dropping as you glue and push on the new 45deg fitting.

 

[bettz1]

There you go, plenty of pipe there to cut it tight to the base of the fitting and then do the re-route. Is there play on the pipe up and down? If so you'll need a way to hold the pipe tight from dropping as you glue and push on the new 45deg fitting.

I take it there's no way to get that 45 off? I'm just worried if I cut it and the pipe doesn't move I'll have a little space to play with or can I put the new black pipe in?

I'll have a look in the morning the vanity units arrived and it's damaged although the sink is fine so I'll have to see what they say.

With the orange water could that be due to us hardly having the heating on

 

[CountryFan]

Yes you can get the 45 off by cutting it across the socket part lengthways being careful not to cut into the pipe and once you’re through so far it can be broken on the collar socket and cleaned up

 

[Madrab]

I've seen others remove some SW couplers but TBH if it was put on correctly I've never had any real success in getting them off properly so I could then fit another coupler onto it. You have enough pipe there to add a new coupler onto it but as suggested, you would need to grab the pipe to stop it dropping down when the new coupler is pushed on.

Unfortunately no, the system water colour wouldn't be because the systems been off over summer, it's more down to the system not having a suitable amount of inhibitor in it. The way to test would be to bleed off a glass of water out of a radiator and see what the actual colour of the water is. Do ensure you can top the system back up again first before you do it, if it's a sealed system.

Or get your system serviced by a recommended gas bod and ask them to check.

 

[bettz1]

I've seen others remove some SW couplers but TBH if it was put on correctly I've never had any real success in getting them off properly so I could then fit another coupler onto it. You have enough pipe there to add a new coupler onto it but as suggested, you would need to grab the pipe to stop it dropping down when the new coupler is pushed on.

Unfortunately no, the system water colour wouldn't be because the systems been off over summer, it's more down to the system not having a suitable amount of inhibitor in it. The way to test would be to bleed off a glass of water out of a radiator and see what the actual colour of the water is. Do ensure you can top the system back up again first before you do it, if it's a sealed system.

Or get your system serviced by a recommended gas bod and ask them to check.

Thank you, I'll bleed a radiator at some point, I'm not sure how to refill I was shown this lever by a plumber once,which seems to do something.

Got to the point of removing the sink before finding out the water supply hasn't got iso valves so I'm waiting on them now.

 

[Madrab]

OK so yes you have a sealed system and yes that's the filling loop where the pressure is topped up, just make sure it works ok before bleeding anything.

 

[bettz1]

Ive spent so long trying to get the old olive off the white pipe it won't budge, managed to do the cold and I've had to tighten it alot hoping it's not dripping anymore, I take it I should have taken the old olive off?

At this rate the white pipe is going to be useless.

 

[Madrab]

The olive won'[t come off the plastic pipe without being cut, the olive compresses when tightened and it bites into the plastic. Only way to remove is to cut the pipe below it.

Is the pipe coming up out the floor/wall 10mm? If so that 10mm to 15mm stem reducer really needs to be replaced.

 

[bettz1]

The olive won'[t come off the plastic pipe without being cut, the olive compresses when tightened and it bites into the plastic. Only way to remove is to cut the pipe below it.

Is the pipe coming up out the floor/wall 10mm? If so that 10mm to 15mm stem reducer really needs to be replaced.

I've hopefully managed it, carefully used a dremel.If I cut the pipe I didn't have enough room to put the isolation valve on. What would I need to replace that part? I've not done any plumbing with that stuff.

I'm not sure, I've taken another pic. I think there hepo.

Thought I'd sorted it but it's still got a slight leak. For some reason the cold isolation valve seems to reopen slowly

 

[Scally-Ho]

What is the writing on the top face of that nut? From the look of the thread, I expect it would be 1/2" BSP threaded.

 

[bettz1]

What is the writing on the top face of that nut? From the look of the thread, I expect it would be 1/2" BSP threaded.

Which one?

 

[bettz1]

So ive changed the smaller iso valve for a bigger one which seemed to go further on up the pipe.

Only a v slow drip I'm tempted to unscrew it and wrap ptf or jointing compound around the olive.

 

[Madrab]

A wrap or 2 of GAS PTFE tape around the olive may do the job. It's leaking because the stem's been damaged.

If replacing you would need a 10mm HEP demounting tool and one of these -

https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-plastic-push-fit-stem-coupler-f-10mm-x-m-15mm/89950

That's a JG but you get them in HEP and other brands too.