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Wylex metal consumer unit..how to remove a knockout

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by nicam49, 21 Nov 2018.

  1. nicam49

    nicam49

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    Title says it all really, don't laugh, (ok, you can laugh) but the knockouts are determined to stay put! Don't want to scratch the paint to bits, so anyone any tips for best practise please?
     
    Last edited: 21 Nov 2018
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  3. stem

    stem

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    I usually use a centre punch. The sharp point stops it skidding and it's short enough to fit in confined spaces (usually)
     
  4. crystal ball

    crystal ball

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    Sometimes if the pressing has been a bit out of spec they can be hard to remove, I have nearly destroyed some metalclad sockets before now, but as above with a smart blow
     
  5. ban-all-sheds

    ban-all-sheds

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    I prefer a small cold chisel.
     
  6. seasickstevie

    seasickstevie

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    I've got a small cross pein (never knew it was spelled that way 'till I googled it) hammer. Some may call it a tack hammer.

    A sharp strike (or several) with the corner usually does the trick.
     
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  7. nicam49

    nicam49

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    Thanks everyone for your suggestions I'll certainly give them a bash now that I know that's the correct technique.
     
  8. JohnD

    JohnD

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    there are lots of techniques. the trick is to break one of the little nibs holding them in place without bending the box.

    I like to stab them with long-nosed pliers and then grab the twisted disk and wiggle it free, then pull it out.
     
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  10. ban-all-sheds

    ban-all-sheds

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    The key thing is to give it a good hard smack. Be too timid and you risk it bending - what you want is for the strike to be so fast that the joins break before the knockout has time to deform.
     
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  11. sparkwright

    sparkwright

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    Creep up on it at 3am and take it by surprise.
     
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  12. andy11

    andy11

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    Knockouts can be total b*stards, but the ones in metalclad back boxes are easy; stand them on a firm surface and hit the rearmost nib of the knockout hard with a hammer and punch (or cold chisel). The rearmost nib mind, not the front one, as the rear one has the support of the back of the box to stop the box caving in. These are very satisfying to do! Churchill liked to lay bricks for relaxation - I could hammer out knockouts!

    In cheap metal adaptable boxes the knockouts are horrible; they fall out as soon as you look at them.

    The worst are those in thick gauge plastic boxes, where the knockout is sunk in a few mms, has no weak spots or nibs, and the hole has a thread leading up to the knockout. Just how to you get these out? You cant hammer them; they are too thick to cut with a knife, and if you use a hole saw or drill you risk ruining the thread.
     
  13. seasickstevie

    seasickstevie

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    Bubble-wrap for electricians.
     
  14. ban-all-sheds

    ban-all-sheds

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    I find that screwing in a brass conduit bush works.
     
    Last edited: 23 Nov 2018
  15. mattylad

    mattylad

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    We get a cheap brand of boards and sockets in at work, total nightmare to knockout - some sort of double/elongated hole.
    With the socket back boxes if your not careful the whole box deforms when your trying to knock them out.
     
  16. DIYnot Local

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