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Hi,
I would like to give thanks to every member of this forum, I have been watching and read upon many posts for the past few years and have learned a lot. I apologize in advance but I would very much like some advice on electrical work which has been completely messed up by a cowboy kitchen fitter and subsequent electrician. I have attached a PDF with diagrams to better aid the understanding of my suitation.
My family recently refitted the kitchen with new flooring, ceiling, walls, units, appliances, etc. However, we were not aware that our kitchen fitter was not an electrician until it was too late. The fitter left our family without a working cooker circuit and we had to seek advice from an electrician. The electrician altered the cooker circuit but yet I am still not satisfied the installation is safe and correct. I have uploaded a PDF of diagrams detailing the wiring at each stage and my DIY proposal.
To begin with, I would like to list our appliances:
1. Existing gas hob with ignition (with flex)
2. Electric single oven 2.85Kw (Hotpoint SA2840) pre-wired with a 13Amp Fused Plug
3. Extractor Hood (with flex) - we did not have one previously.
In our old kitchen, the cooker switch was located directly above our hob so we requested the cooker switch be moved 300mm. The original cable was 10mm T+E on a 40A breaker at the consumer unit. The fitter extended the cables using 6mm T+E connecting each conductor with WAGO connectors. The connectors were not in an enclosure and were buried in the walls. Below the worktop, we had an existing cooker connection outlet and in addition to this, the fitter wired a 13 Amp socket for the oven and ran 2.5mm T+E in the wall to a 13 Amp FCU for the extractor hood above. The FCU was positioned incorrectly - it is hidden within the duct itself. The fitter connected all the switches and sockets in our kitchen just before he left (in the last hour) and at this point, we learned he was not an electrician and was speechless when our socket tester said "Missing Neutral". (At this point, the entire kitchen was built)
The next day, an electrician confirmed the "Missing Neutral" and broke the reverse wall which is our bathroom. He rewired the wall as shown in the attached diagrams and replaced the cooker connection outlet with a 13 Amp FCU for the Hob. But, this 13 Amp FCU is beside the 13 Amp socket for the oven which will be covered by our oven. On the opposite wall on the reverse. there is a cut-out that will have an access door panel where the connections have been made.
Inside the access hatch, there are two connector block strips. One strip is used to join the 10mm cable from the consumer unit with 6mm extended to the cooker switch into the supply terminals. On this same strip, two 2.5mm cables supply the 13 Amp FCUs (hob and hood). The other connector block strip connects the 6mm cable from the load terminals on the cooker switch with a 2.5mm cable for the 13 Amp socket for the oven. The electrician in that this is correct, however, the cooker switch no longer controls the hob nor the extractor hood - it only switches the 13 Amp socket for the oven. Additionally, in the future, if we ever upgrade our hob to an induction hob or an oven that requires more than 13 Amps, we will need to upgrade the cable and potentially reinstate the cooker connection outlet.
The electrician has left and the last page in my diagrams shows the changes I want to make MYSELF. I would like to connect the two 2.5mm cables feeding the FCUs for the hood and the hob to the same connector block strip as the load of the cooker switch - this way, whenever the cooker switch is turned off, everything turns off and vice-versa despite the FCUs and socket being completely inaccessible.
I understand what to do and am competent in doing it DIY but I would like advice if whether this is correct or not before I make the change. Thank you to everyone who has read my post and to those who contribute.
I would like to give thanks to every member of this forum, I have been watching and read upon many posts for the past few years and have learned a lot. I apologize in advance but I would very much like some advice on electrical work which has been completely messed up by a cowboy kitchen fitter and subsequent electrician. I have attached a PDF with diagrams to better aid the understanding of my suitation.
My family recently refitted the kitchen with new flooring, ceiling, walls, units, appliances, etc. However, we were not aware that our kitchen fitter was not an electrician until it was too late. The fitter left our family without a working cooker circuit and we had to seek advice from an electrician. The electrician altered the cooker circuit but yet I am still not satisfied the installation is safe and correct. I have uploaded a PDF of diagrams detailing the wiring at each stage and my DIY proposal.
To begin with, I would like to list our appliances:
1. Existing gas hob with ignition (with flex)
2. Electric single oven 2.85Kw (Hotpoint SA2840) pre-wired with a 13Amp Fused Plug
3. Extractor Hood (with flex) - we did not have one previously.
In our old kitchen, the cooker switch was located directly above our hob so we requested the cooker switch be moved 300mm. The original cable was 10mm T+E on a 40A breaker at the consumer unit. The fitter extended the cables using 6mm T+E connecting each conductor with WAGO connectors. The connectors were not in an enclosure and were buried in the walls. Below the worktop, we had an existing cooker connection outlet and in addition to this, the fitter wired a 13 Amp socket for the oven and ran 2.5mm T+E in the wall to a 13 Amp FCU for the extractor hood above. The FCU was positioned incorrectly - it is hidden within the duct itself. The fitter connected all the switches and sockets in our kitchen just before he left (in the last hour) and at this point, we learned he was not an electrician and was speechless when our socket tester said "Missing Neutral". (At this point, the entire kitchen was built)
The next day, an electrician confirmed the "Missing Neutral" and broke the reverse wall which is our bathroom. He rewired the wall as shown in the attached diagrams and replaced the cooker connection outlet with a 13 Amp FCU for the Hob. But, this 13 Amp FCU is beside the 13 Amp socket for the oven which will be covered by our oven. On the opposite wall on the reverse. there is a cut-out that will have an access door panel where the connections have been made.
Inside the access hatch, there are two connector block strips. One strip is used to join the 10mm cable from the consumer unit with 6mm extended to the cooker switch into the supply terminals. On this same strip, two 2.5mm cables supply the 13 Amp FCUs (hob and hood). The other connector block strip connects the 6mm cable from the load terminals on the cooker switch with a 2.5mm cable for the 13 Amp socket for the oven. The electrician in that this is correct, however, the cooker switch no longer controls the hob nor the extractor hood - it only switches the 13 Amp socket for the oven. Additionally, in the future, if we ever upgrade our hob to an induction hob or an oven that requires more than 13 Amps, we will need to upgrade the cable and potentially reinstate the cooker connection outlet.
The electrician has left and the last page in my diagrams shows the changes I want to make MYSELF. I would like to connect the two 2.5mm cables feeding the FCUs for the hood and the hob to the same connector block strip as the load of the cooker switch - this way, whenever the cooker switch is turned off, everything turns off and vice-versa despite the FCUs and socket being completely inaccessible.
I understand what to do and am competent in doing it DIY but I would like advice if whether this is correct or not before I make the change. Thank you to everyone who has read my post and to those who contribute.
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