Disconnected light

[billozz]

The previous occupier disconnected the downstairs hall light, I'm trying to reconnect it the light is controlled I think with one of the switches to the right of the picture, is it possible that the 2 red wires joined in the connector block need to be in one of the connections. No power at the ceiling fitting.
Thank you very much.
Bill

 

[billozz]

Forgot to attach the pic

 

[Deryck Tintagel]

Do you have a multimeter?
What do the other two switches operate?
The earth on the cable to the right needs connecting to the other earth connections in the backbox

 

[billozz]

The other switches operate an outside light in the porch and the landing light, that earth is connected at the back of the box. Don't have a multimeter, do have electrical screwdriver

 

[Deryck Tintagel]

What connections are at the light?

 

[foxhole]

At a guess the connector in centre on black cable is a switched live for hall, but never safe to guess with electrics.

 

[billozz]

At a guess the connector in centre on black cable is a switched live for hall, but never safe to guess with electrics.

There's no power to either of the black cables, thanks for replying

 

[billozz]

What connections are at the light?

Thanks for reply this is the end from the ceiling, was pushed up into ceiling void

 

[securespark]

The left hand switch is a two-way. Landing light, I guess.
The next switch along is a one way. Porch light, I guess.

These two switches have their commons linked to the third switch from the left, which is in turn connected to the black conductor.

For the lights connected to the two switches on the LHS of the plate to work, that black has to be a live feed, no?

I find it odd that there are plenty of connectors in the switch box. Could one of these contain the disconnected switch wire for the hall light?

And the two reds connected in the back box also intrigue me.

You will deffo need a multimeter at least to try and sort this out.

Edited for clarity.

 

[securespark]

I would get a multimeter set for AC voltage and test between earth on the back box and that common with the red and black in.
Then between earth and the connector with two reds in.

It's difficult to see what is connected to the other terminal blocks. But I would check between earth and those too and see what voltage readings you get.

But...be careful when doing live testing. If you are unsure, leave it to someone who is.

You could also do a dead test: with the power off, connect a lead to the red conductor at the hall ceiling position. Make it long enough to reach from there to the hall switch position.

Then set the multimeter to continuity and connect it between the long lead and any conductors that are in terminal blocks on their own in the switch box.

If you get continuity (usually a beep and/or a reading of zero), that's the correct switch wire.

 

[opps]

There's no power to either of the black cables, thanks for replying

If the black cables are the neutrals, there should not be any "power" at them.

I am not an electrician, but I have had to troubleshoot messes left by supposed electricians.

With the power turned off, I use a cheap multimeter and spare bits of cable to run from the ceiling rose, back down to the multi meter and then light switch- effectively extending the oppertional length of the leads on my multimeter. I then check for continuity. Thus far, it has not let me down.

 

[billozz]

I would get a multimeter set for AC voltage and test between earth on the back box and that common with the red and black in.
Then between earth and the connector with two reds in.

It's difficult to see what is connected to the other terminal blocks. But I would check between earth and those too and see what voltage readings you get.

But...be careful when doing live testing. If you are unsure, leave it to someone who is.

You could also do a dead test: with the power off, connect a lead to the red conductor at the hall ceiling position. Make it long enough to reach from there to the hall switch position.

Then set the multimeter to continuity and connect it between the long lead and any conductors that are in terminal blocks on their own in the switch box.

If you get continuity (usually a beep and/or a reading of zero), that's the correct switch wire.

Appreciate your reply, I will have another look tomorrow( when it's light) believe me I am very careful, there are trips on the circuits so I can try different configurations without causing a major problem.

 

[billozz]

If the black cables are the neutrals, there should not be any "power" at them.

I am not an electrician, but I have had to troubleshoot messes left by supposed electricians.

With the power turned off, I use a cheap multimeter and spare bits of cable to run from the ceiling rose, back down to the multi meter and then light switch- effectively extending the oppertional length of the leads on my multimeter. I then check for continuity. Thus far, it has not let me

Thanks for the reply that's a good idea I might use that.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Appreciate your reply, I will have another look tomorrow( when it's light) believe me I am very careful, there are trips on the circuits so I can try different configurations without causing a major problem.

No, you must work out what is what first with the power OFF.

 

[securespark]

Yes, I apologise profusely.

I should have laid out my text so that the dead tests were suggested before any live testing.