How do I fix this safely?

[steve1811uk]

Picture shows the cable going to my oven. Obviously damaged at some point then joined together using 2 way chocolate block and taped over. Don't know if the earth is intact or not! The cable goes up behind the T+G and then into the plaster after about 4 inches. What is the easiest acceptable way of fixing this safely? All help appreciated. Steve

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s304/steve1811uk/Electrics/Ovencable.jpg

 

[RF Lighting]

If there is enough slack on the cable then just replace the strip connectors with a joint box.

What rating is the fuse which feeds this circuit?

You need to ensure the joint box you fit has a current rating either equal to or greater than the current rating of the fuse / MCB

 

[Spark123]

Can't help but notice, in the CU there is a 45A MCB where I don't think it should be . 45A MCBs should only go in this type of Wylex CU if it is a 100A CU and then only next to the switch.

 

[steve1811uk]

Please explain about the 45A MCB. I am new to electrics but have been doing some reading. Do you mean that it should be in the first location on the bus-bar next to the isolating switch? Steve.

 

[Spark123]

Yes, they are normally keyed as to only fit there (unless some idiot has filed/snapped the keyway off). It is maybe a good time to look at having a new CU fitted, no RCD protection for sockets either.

 

[steve1811uk]

could fit a junction box but that would end up being hidden by the tongue and groove. Is that acceptable? The MCB is 30A so I guess I need a 30A junction box. Steve.

 

[Spark123]

No, a junction box needs to be accessable for inspection and testing.

 

[RF Lighting]

Can you get enough slack on the cable to get it inside the consumer unit before the damaged part?

If not, I notice from one of your other questions you plan on altering the switching and connection at the kitchen end so you might be aswel rewiring the circuit.




WRT the 45A MCB, I notice you have a brown wylex fuse box. AFAIK these are not designed for a 45A fuse on any of the ways. They must have a maximum of a 30A fuse / MCB per circuit.

 

[Adam_151]

*puts on dingbat's hat*

I also see cables which look like they are concealed where unprotected cables shouldn't be concealed, and considering the might be similar standards of workmanship elsewhere (we already have the dodgy joint, an incompatable CPD and out of zone cables) and considering it looks a few years old it'll probably be lacking in sockets a bit, a re-wire might in the long term be the best bet, you get things exactly where you want them and know that there are no more hideen nastys

 

[steve1811uk]

OK I'll cut back the T+G in that area and fit an accessible 30A junction box. It will look messy but no other reasonable options. I will be upgrading to a new consumer unit very soon with RCD protection. Just bought a 10 way split load Wylex from B+Q for £69 (including 10 switched 13A double sockets for free). Steve.

 

[Spark123]

Are you aware that changing a CU is notifiable to your local area building control under Part P of the building regulations?
A new CU will not change the state of the wiring and any other substandard work carried out. I agree with Adam151, a rewire may be the most viable option.

 

[steve1811uk]

Already got lots of sockets as our house used to be used as offices. Two ring mains one upstairs and one downstairs. Cannot afford a total rewire at the moment. From what I can make out the dodgyness was introduced by the previous owners who converted from the office to a house (So the shower and cooker for example are dodgy and only one double socket in the kitchen). My main aims are to sort out those problem areas first. Thanks for all the help. Any idea how much a inspect/test/certify would cost if I replaced the CU?

 

[davy_owen_88]

You can't just get a spark to inspect, test and certify work they didn't carry out because if you did something wrong which they couldn't inspect (badly routed cables etc.) it's their name on the certificate and their ass on the line - just one reason why most will not certify work they did not do.

You'll have to go through your BCO who will charge you a fee (I don't know how much). If you are intending on installing a new ring main into the kitchen then that is notifiable, along with any major work you intend doing to the shower circuit. It's probably cheaper for you to get a registered spark to do it for you than pay the BCO fees on a number of separate occasions.

Davy

 

[Steve]

WRT the 45A MCB, I notice you have a brown wylex fuse box. AFAIK these are not designed for a 45A fuse on any of the ways. They must have a maximum of a 30A fuse / MCB per circuit.

Once again, I feel the need to state that I had a wooden brown 100 amp wylex fuse box. They did exist, if only a few were produced. Wish I still had it! bet that electrician sold it on ebay or something, cobwebs and all!

By the way, sack the plasterer.

 

[securespark]

Yeah, cut back the T & G, then cut back the T & E and after all that hard work, crack open a G & T!!