Planning Kitchen Wall Electrics - Is This Good? [PIC]

[ILikeDIYS]

Just to clarify. I will be (hopefully) chasing the cavities either today or tomorrow:

So...

• 2 legs from ring main (top right) to extractor fan single socket, then 2 legs down to the double socket.
• Cooker radial in 6mm T&E. 1x 2.5mm T&E cable from the CCU to 20A DP switch to control the electric hob, then to single unswitched socket underneath.
• Ambient lighting switch... well I ain't too sure how the ambient lighting is going to be routed yet (need to do more research on that) but it will be under the wall units as well as the plinths only on the units along that wall.

Anything I've missed that people want in a kitchen? Thanks.

 

[deadshort]

You don't actually require the 20a switch for the hob. You could use a dual appliance conection plate and connect both oven and hob to the CCU.
I prefer to install a 32a cooker switch and twin socket from the rf instead of aCCU, you always need more sockets in a kichen ! I just don't like the look of an old fashioned CCU !

DS

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Just to clarify. I will be (hopefully) chasing the cavities either today or tomorrow:

Do you live in Wales?

2 legs from ring main (top right) to extractor fan single socket, then 2 legs down to the double socket.

What testing have you done to confirm that the cables you are using are in fact part of a ring?

Cooker radial in 6mm T&E. 1x 2.5mm T&E cable from the CCU to 20A DP switch to control the electric hob, then to single unswitched socket underneath.

1. Do you already have this circuit, or is it a new one?
2. What have you done to confirm that it will be OK to have a 2.5mm² cable protected by the cooker circuit MCB/fuse? What's the rating of the hob?
   
3. Do you actually want a switch for the hob, separate to the one for the oven? Do you plan to have it in series, or parallel with the oven switch?

Ambient lighting switch... well I ain't too sure how the ambient lighting is going to be routed yet (need to do more research on that) but it will be under the wall units as well as the plinths only on the units along that wall.

You really need to decide what sort of lighting, and where. If you end up needing to power a wall-wart supply for it, what will you do?

Anything I've missed that people want in a kitchen? Thanks.

You can never have too many sockets.

Also, what is going to happen with that gas meter?

Lastly:

I will be (hopefully) chasing the cavities either today or tomorrow

I really think you have more planning to do before then.

 

[ILikeDIYS]

You don't actually require the 20a switch for the hob. You could use a dual appliance conection plate and connect both oven and hob to the CCU.
I prefer to install a 32a cooker switch and twin socket from the rf instead of the CCU, you always need more sockets in a kichen ! I just don't like the look of an old fashioned CCU !

Thanks I didn't know the dual appliance connections existed. I did think about the RF socket but it would need an extra chase and to be honest some of the CCUs I've seen look not much different from a double socket.

Plus the plan is to put a CCU symmetrical to the duel socket on the right of the cooker.

 

[ILikeDIYS]

What testing have you done to confirm that the cables you are using are in fact part of a ring?

It's the ring from my other thread that I extended! You suggested adding a leg to the new washing machine socket as opposed to a JB which I did. Now you see one leg in the top right, then another leg in the top left (going to the kettle socket). Connecting another leg between them completes the ring.

1. Do you already have this circuit, or is it a new one?
2. What have you done to confirm that it will be OK to have a 2.5mm² cable protected by the cooker circuit MCB/fuse? What's the rating of the hob?
   
3. Do you actually want a switch for the hob, separate to the one for the oven? Do you plan to have it in series, or parallel with the oven switch?

1. Circuit is there, CCU just needs relocating (current position behind that free-standing cooker).
2. I haven't bought the hob or oven yet. The salesperson at John Lewis said the oven should be hard wired and the hob can be 3-pin plugged into the same 32A cooker circuit.
3. No, one switch for both is fine.

You can never have too many sockets.

Also, what is going to happen with that gas meter?

More sockets will be added to the left of the gas meter but I'm not there yet. Gas meter most probably be raised a bit and pipes boxed up (and box tiled around).

 

[aptsys]

The salesperson at John Lewis said the oven should be hard wired and the hob can be 3-pin plugged into the same 32A cooker circuit.
3. No, one switch for both is fine.

Did you not question this? An electric hob on a 13A plug?

 

[SUNRAY]

I love those brown tiles, we still have some of them here.


























behind the cupboards.

 

[ILikeDIYS]

Did you not question this? An electric hob on a 13A plug?

I went in assuming they were both hard wired. Sales person said only oven is hard wired and hob is 3 or 2 pin plugged into a regular socket but said they don't come with plugs on the end for safety reasons. I've never used a solo hob before - always had a freestanding oven with built in hob.

 

[SUNRAY]

I went in assuming they were both hard wired. Sales person said only oven is hard wired and hob is 3 or 2 pin plugged into a regular socket but said they don't come with plugs on the end for safety reasons. I've never used a solo hob before - always had a freestanding oven with built in hob.

Just realised the error here, I suspect you have these round the wrong way.
A single oven is LIKELY to be 3KW or under and can be on a 13A service BUT recheck YOUR particular oven.
The hob is VERY LIKELY to have 4 rings of 1 to 2KW each so at best 4KW with all running or over 17A.

 

[aptsys]

Just realised the error here, I suspect you have these round the wrong way.
A single oven is LIKELY to be 3KW or under and can be on a 13A service BUT recheck YOUR particular oven.
The hob is VERY LIKELY to have 4 rings of 1 to 2KW each so at best 4KW with all running or over 17A.

The fact the OP took the original suggestion at face value is concerning however.

 

[SUNRAY]

The fact the OP took the original suggestion at face value is concerning however

Just realised the error here, I suspect you have these round the wrong way.
A single oven is LIKELY to be 3KW or under and can be on a 13A service BUT recheck YOUR particular oven.
The hob is VERY LIKELY to have 4 rings of 1 to 2KW each so at best 4KW with all running or over 17A.

It is totally possible the hob has low energy 750W rings and the double oven has double grill etc but without knowing more I cannot make a definite statement of fact.
Either way I'd hard wire and ideally on different switches between the cooker and the fire escape route.

 

[flameport]

what is going to happen with that gas meter?

That is revealed in the other thread.

 

[securespark]

The salesperson at John Lewis said the oven should be hard wired and the hob can be 3-pin plugged into the same 32A cooker circuit.

Of those items, it would not be the hob with a plug.

I would ditch the electric hob as you have easy access to fit a supply pipe for a gas one. They are much easier to control and the fuel is way cheaper.

Your house looks like one my sister lived in: ex LA in MCR.

 

[securespark]

Is the back (front) door next to the sink unit?

That fresh plaster to the RHS of the gas meter - is that a cable chase? If so, is it in a safe zone?

 

[ILikeDIYS]

The fact the OP took the original suggestion at face value is concerning however.

You think I would have gone through with it without consulting you guys first?

Of those items, it would not be the hob with a plug.

I would ditch the electric hob as you have easy access to fit a supply pipe for a gas one. They are much easier to control and the fuel is way cheaper.

That's what I've been told. There is already a gas pipe coming out of the wall (15mm one) right behind where the oven unit is to be fitted that's been capped.

Disadvantages of gas is they are harder to clean and look less neat.