Replace energy saving GU10's with normal GU10's

[elsmore1]

Hello,

Our builders put in some spotlights for us which were energy saving bulbs. But they take too long to light fully. I checked them and they are energy saving GU10's and quite deep maybe 3 inches, can I replace these with just GU10' or are the fittings of a specific type for energy saving only?

Many Thanks

 

[ban-all-sheds]

In theory if they will take GU10 lamps then they should be OK, but in practice, these days, with the amount of cheap and dodgy carp on the market you need to refer to the instructions on or with the lights to see what maximum wattage they can take.

Does it matter that they take a while to get to full brightness? What do you use them for? How long are they on for?

If they are fluorescents, and suffering in the cold, you might try LEDs.

 

[elsmore1]

Hi,
They are downlighters in the bathroom and with no window its quite annoying that they take a while to get full brightness as its the only light day and night. I will maybe have to try the builders as not sure I have any manuals.
Thanks

 

[ericmark]

The L2 GU10 is designed to only take energy saving bulbs there is a hole between the terminals of the bulb and a corresponding spike in the holder. They are to allow builders comply with building regulations there are also other holders also designed so they can only be used with energy saving lamps.

The electrical regulations do not separate out below 100W and state unless manufacturer states otherwise they must be 0.5 meters from combustible materials (422.3.1) in a normal house we don't have 0.5 meters between ceiling and floor above and as a result many installations do not comply with regulations however with the originally fitted bulbs are safe.

To use 50mm spot lights for general lighting one has to bounce the light off walls or other white surfaces but the cold cathode lamp does tend to have a better spread then LED also a 3W LED GU10 lamp is around £3 but as you go up in wattage the price goes up and if you wanted to use LED likely you would need to increase the number of lamps used.

The heat from tungsten lamps is really a problem and the 150W quartz halogen lamps have been banned from many building sites because of the fire risk. OK yours would likely be only 50W at most but the fire risk is still there. My beams are not 1 meter apart and I would not think many houses do have beams far enough apart to comply the 422.3.1 so unless the lamp manufacturer states may be fitted within x meters of combustible materials then can't use them.

I would expect most do not comply with the BS7671 regulations when fitted in a house. Mine fitted on a chimney breast likely don't but I admit I never considered the regulations, mine don't because there is a surface over 90 degs C which need not be touched for normal operation and Non-metallic (TABLE 42.1) but now fitted with LED so no longer a problem. I am sure we all break the rules.

The thing is you need to do a risk assessment and decide is there a real risk of fire or not.

As to if you could complain to builder that the lighting is not fit for purpose is something else. The 11W cold cathode I tried were failures but the 3W LED have been great.

 

[elsmore1]

Hi,
Thanks for reply its a new build built 2012 so I assume will have to meet modern regulations.
Thanks

 

[RF Lighting]

I would really recommend you replace the existing lamps with LED GU10s.

They come on at full brightness straight away, they last for ages and ages and ages, and they use even less electric than your existing lamps.

Have a look for warm white lamps, and between 5 watts and 9 watts.

Toolstation have some good prices for LED GU10s.

Expect to pay about a tenner per lamp. Don't be tempted by cheap lamps on ebay and the like. They're cheap for a reason.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Please check carefully with the manufacturer of the downlight.

Some of these are made of ABS plastic which is NOT able to withstand the heat of halogen lamps. FOR EXAMPLE

As above. LEDs may be an alternative but please check with the maker.

 

[big-all]

keep in mind a normal spot around 50w will cost around 7p for 10 hrs at 14p a kw unit an led will cost less than 1p
or £25.50 a year as opposed to £2.80 or 89% less as a ratio off 9 to 1

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Some of these are made of ABS plastic which is NOT able to withstand the heat of halogen lamps. FOR EXAMPLE

Shouldn't lights like that only accept lamps with L1 bases?

 

[333rocky333]

The L2 GU10 is designed to only take energy saving bulbs there is a hole between the terminals of the bulb and a corresponding spike in the holder. .

Isnt that an L1 holder

 

[ericmark]

The L2 GU10 is designed to only take energy saving bulbs there is a hole between the terminals of the bulb and a corresponding spike in the holder. .

Isnt that an L1 holder

Thanks yes my mistake.

 

[JohnW2]

The electrical regulations do not separate out below 100W and state unless manufacturer states otherwise they must be 0.5 meters from combustible materials (422.3.1) in a normal house we don't have 0.5 meters between ceiling and floor above and as a result many installations do not comply with regulations however with the originally fitted bulbs are safe.

I've often wondered what 422.3.1 actually means. Particularly given that it is talking specifically about 'small spotlights and projectors', are you sure it is not referring to minimum distances to combustible material in front of (i.e. 'illuminated by') the light? That would seem to make more sense. If, per your interpretation, it was talking about the minimum distance in any direction, then, as you imply, it would be all-but-impossible to achieve compliance (if ceiling mounted) in most domestic situations.

What do you (and others) think?

Kind Regards, John

 

[securespark]

I was just about to post before I read John's reply to say just that: I have always understood the 0.5m rule to be pertaining to the FRONT of the fitting. IE, there must not be any surface or object closer than that to the lamp, effectively.

Of course, there is no way, unless in an open loft space, or other open space to comply with that ruling if it applies to the rear of the fitting as well.

 

[JohnW2]

I was just about to post before I read John's reply to say just that: I have always understood the 0.5m rule to be pertaining to the FRONT of the fitting. IE, there must not be any surface or object closer than that to the lamp, effectively. Of course, there is no way, unless in an open loft space, or other open space to comply with that ruling if it applies to the rear of the fitting as well.

Indeed - I really don't think the reg makes any sense if one interprets it as eric has, since it then becomes a regulation which usually going to be impossible to comply with.

However, I don't blame eric (or others who have made a similar interpretation) since this appears to be another example of a very badly worded regulation. In fact, I would suspect that 'a Court' would find it hard not to interpret the words as eric has!

Kind Regards, John

 

[stillp]

If you read 422.3, it applies to BE2 conditions, i.e. where there is a risk of fire due to the manufacture, processing or storage of flammable materials. This would not be the case in most domestic situations, with the possible exception of the garage.