Reposition plug socket for new cooker hood/extractor

Hi all,

Been planning a remodel of the kitchen and replaced the old cooker hood with a shiny new one. However the old design had a cupboard bridging unit which hid the plug socket for the old hood but since the new hood doesn't use panel, I don't want an ugly socket smack bang next to a stainless steel unit. As you can see from the pics, I want to hide this as it will be on show. After a quick test it seems this socket takes power from the upstairs ring main as it goes dead when the consumer switch for upstairs sockets is turned off.
The instructions for the hood installation show the socket hidden behind the 'flue' part of the unit. A chocbox won't fit between the plasterboard and wall as it only deep enough for standard depth socket back plate and I know that connector blocks are treated as temporary only which kind of rules out plastering over.
Am I right in thinking this socket is a spur off ring main or still part of upstairs ring main? Any advice please?








Cheers
Doc

 

Buy a nice stainless steel single socket

 

I like the way you think.

Would save a ton of work too.

Doc

 

It looks like the cable comes into the top of the back box - ie from above?

What you really need to do is carefully remove this section from out of the wall, and move it over so it comes down through the centre of the new chimney - this would probably mean lifting a floor board in the room above and extending the cable using a permanent means (ie crimps and heatshrink sleeving)

You'll also need to make sure the circuit is RCD protected as you are moving the socket.

I won't say anything about part P

SB

 

Sparkybird's suggestion is the better way of doing it.

If you use the existing socket position, swop it for a stainless FCU, then the feed cable to the hood can go in the wall and be hidden.

 

It might be OK to have a 30A terminal block behind a blank plate to provide a spur down to a new socket behind the chimney.

Fit a second blank plate on the other side of the chimney ( nothing behind it ) with wood screws in rawllplugs to match and make it symetrical.


Or move that socket up into the room above ( extra sockets always useful and bring a spur from it to the new location behind the chimney

But don't quote me on that

 

Thanks for the replies/advice. Here's where the hood chimney will be positioned. You can see why I need to move this socket. I realise it's not firmly fixed I was merely demonstrating where it will be positioned. Luckily the chimney is a trim panel only. There is a separate flexi pipe that feeds exhaust to outside.





Doc

 

In a convenient place install a switched FCU. Can be SS if you want. Can be engraved "Cooker Hood" if you want.

If you have multiple items you'd like to switch, consider a grid plate with switch and fuse modules.

From there run a cable concealed in the wall to a flex outlet plate behind the chimney. Use earthed steel conduit if the route makes this necessary.

 

Could that existing socket position be moved a bit to the left so that cable enters via the top-right knock-out, and won't then foul the chimney? Saves moving the cables supplying it.
You would have the option of the SS FCU as well.

 

Good idea but I really want the area around the hood uncluttered as the rest of the kitchen will be smooth and modern. The only plug sockets I want on show are the usual work-top height ones for kettle, toaster etc.

Many thanks

Doc

 

Seems a bit daft to spend money on SS accessories, a shiny new hood, and whatever else is involved in the remodelling of the kitchen and leave something as horribly naff as a socket up there with a plug and a flex running off to the hood....

 

My thoughts exactly. From a time/money aspect I can see why there are suggestions of leaving it in place and in other circumstances I would simply move it slightly and replace with a shiny socket but from asthetic reasons - hidden and uncluttered is the way to go.

Cheers
Doc

 

1 or 2 grid switches in strategic locations will probably do the lot.

Is it a gas hob?

 

To remove that socket you need to remove the cables completely, which will mean joining them in the ceiling void. You cannot have live cables buried in a wall without them going to a visible accessory and no one will know they are there, so there is a risk of drilling them.

You need a new feed for the extractor. You could consider running the existing cables to a socket or switched fused spur mounted on one of the wall cupboards, but you would have to ensure cables would run vertically down from the ceiling. You would need to pull them up from their existing position to above the ceiling, extend if necessary, and out of the ceiling where the new socket would go.

You cannot simply extend the cable from the existing socket location, as some or all of the wiring won't be in a 'safe zone'.

The flex of the extractor can be brought to the new socket location, horizontally if it is clear that the cable enters the wall at above the cupboard.

 

It might be abit tight, but would this work ?

You also wouldn't have to extend the cables, but the circuit would still have to be RCD protected.