Rewire or not?

You might find the switch drops are in metal conduit so pulling new cables would be much easier.

You need to “brief” the spark doing the EICR on what you want to know, then allow them the time to investigate properly
 
Though Eric rightly metions RCBO/RCD and ins res I woud have assumed that any decent electrician would be looking for a well above maximum ins res reading and commenting at least.
Same with borrowed N they should not be there in the first place and are not safe but would seldom be noticed in the field of use prior to RCBOs in practice, again that should be checked.
 
PS I would never use an angle grinder in a house that is occupied even if the owners are on holiday for a couple of weeks. Empty house no carpets or carpets rolled up maybe.
 
PS I would never use an angle grinder in a house that is occupied even if the owners are on holiday for a couple of weeks. Empty house no carpets or carpets rolled up maybe.
Whats that got to with the price of fish? :whistle:
 
I've now got a qualified electrician calling on Wednesday

This forum is full of posts from people who have employed an electrician to do an inspection and they have invented all sorts of unnecessary but profitable works.

Of course it may be that 99% of electricians are honest and will correctly tell you that your PVC wiring that has never had any faults will be absolutely fine for another 25 years and nothing needs doing. But, cynically, I think that getting an inspection is the wrong thing for you to do: if they say everything is fine, well you knew that anyway; if they say it needs rewiring, you spend lots of money and suffer lots of disruption.

Fitting a new consumer unit may be wise, depending on whether the 31-year-old unit has any RCD protection.
 
This forum is full of posts from people who have employed an electrician to do an inspection and they have invented all sorts of unnecessary but profitable works.

Of course it may be that 99% of electricians are honest and will correctly tell you that your PVC wiring that has never had any faults will be absolutely fine for another 25 years and nothing needs doing. But, cynically, I think that getting an inspection is the wrong thing for you to do: if they say everything is fine, well you knew that anyway; if they say it needs rewiring, you spend lots of money and suffer lots of disruption.

Fitting a new consumer unit may be wise, depending on whether the 31-year-old unit has any RCD protection.
Thanks, I understand fully what you mean, I was intending to approach this in a more crafty way when the electrician calls, I haven't yet asked for the full EICR, but will get his opinion on the Consumer unit, first which i already know is needed, I will then ask his opinion on the rest of the wiring, he will then tell me either the truth or the big sell, and then I will ask him to qualify that with an EICR, but not until I get a 2nd quote.
 
As part of a consumer unit change I would insist on an EICR first, it would be foolish to do otherwise!
 
As part of a consumer unit change I would insist on an EICR first, it would be foolish to do otherwise!
Thanks mate, will do, and thinking about it that makes good sense, am i right in think it would be highly unlikely to expect 57 year old pvc cabling to last much longer, if it passes the EICR tests as satisfactory
By the way the consumer unit was replaced when we moved in 31 years ago its a plastic MEM and its full to capacity
 
An EICR requires the inspector to do a lot of work, which is not required if the result is a re-wire.

I only really needed to remove one ceiling rose cover, to see the rubber cables were crumbling.

It will take maybe an hour to fit a consumer unit with no outputs, if that, it is the putting of each circuit into the consumer unit which takes time, so think mine was fitted in around 6 hours, so you're throwing away 5 hours of work if you fit a consumer unit then have a re-wire.

There is also the point if it needs a re-wire then the electrician can't really power up any circuits.

I have had this argument with a code C1 with an EICR, it should never exist, as if that bad, it should be isolated, and once isolated it is no longer a code C1.

So really needs a more honest approach. Be honest with the electrician, so you ask, will you have a quick look first, and say if you think it will need a full rewire, as hardly worth doing an EICR if it is clearly going to need a full re-wire, if it's not going to need a full rewire, then do the EICR to work out which bits can remain.

OK, we can take it as read it will need a new consumer unit, but the main point is how it is going to be done. Mothers house as it was by time it was rewired, would be re-wired cheaper if she was not there, well in real terms no option, could not do a re-wire with a person with alzheimer's in the home. She was in a care home while it was re-wired, which mean speed was a big thing due to cost of care home.

My son put his family in a caravan in the garden while it was rewired.

If the re-wire team need to make it safe each night, it will cost more. The same applies if they need to keep a supply on to a freezer, some may have generators or power banks to bridge the gap in supply, others will not.

Also decide what you want, no good asking one to also run internet cables and the other not, I would get a price on a basic re-wire, if you then decide you can afford more, that's OK.

Decoration is another thing, a painted wall is easy, a papered wall is far harder, so with the papered wall the socket was in the corner, technically not permitted, but trunking down the corner does not look too bad, down the centre of the wall it would look quite bad.

Even the two way switch in the bedroom needs considering, pull switch over the bed is quite easy, chasing down to wall with a bedside lamp and switch each side of bed is clearly more work, and a smart switch with Alexa means you don't need two way switching, consider all this first.

I use Nest Mini speakers, and voice commands for a lot of my lights, some have smart bulbs, some have smart switched, one has a smart relay, asking for deep back boxes to take smart switches, or neutrals taken to switch to power a smart switch, or neutral to light to power a ceiling fan, now is the time to think about it.
 
@ericmark Many thanks for sharing your experiences and great tips based on the experience, I hadn't thought about this in the same common sense way you have presented.

I will adopt this method in organising what
happens next with the electrician.

Thanyou, I've had some great help of all of you, I very much appreciate your time.
Kind regards
 

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