Screw keeps spinning
- Thread starter Android 07
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Plasterboard
that's good. You can cut a new hole that does not interfere with the architrave. You can get plastic back-boxes for plasterboard wall, they have a sort of spung clip or latch to grip the back of the board.
a multicutter is ideal for cutting the hole, but you can scrape with a stanleyknife, or padsaw if you have one. Keep away from the cables though.
If there is a wooden stud in the wall, you can use a metal backbox and screw it into place. There are several depths so measure the distance from the stud to the surface.
Any chance of a pic?
a multicutter is ideal for cutting the hole, but you can scrape with a stanleyknife, or padsaw if you have one. Keep away from the cables though.
If there is a wooden stud in the wall, you can use a metal backbox and screw it into place. There are several depths so measure the distance from the stud to the surface.
Any chance of a pic?
Here you go JohnD
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Just to clarify, it's worth noting that just because the wall in plasterboard, there may well be a wooden stud or noggin that the old box was screwed to.
Dry-line box only work on completely hollow plasterboard walls, so check first if there is wood etc in the way.
Dry-line box only work on completely hollow plasterboard walls, so check first if there is wood etc in the way.
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In the bottom left it looks like a slotted countersink screw, , so somethings there
you're going to have to rip it out, so do that, then photograph it again and measure the depth. Turn off the electricity first, of course.
if you have some chocblocks, terminate the wires safely there. If not, buy some when you go out for your switch and backbox. They are cheap and useful. 6A will do. Also sold in hardware shops.
you cut through the plastic to make a block of as many terminals as you have wires. Probably about three.
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electric...=managedredirect-_-electrical-_-terminalblock
if you have some chocblocks, terminate the wires safely there. If not, buy some when you go out for your switch and backbox. They are cheap and useful. 6A will do. Also sold in hardware shops.
you cut through the plastic to make a block of as many terminals as you have wires. Probably about three.
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electric...=managedredirect-_-electrical-_-terminalblock
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Junior hacksaw blade would have cut that screw off in situ to remove faceplate without damage.
Two gang switch £3 hardly worth the effort
Two gang switch £3 hardly worth the effort
So, here is the latest pic as requested :
The good news is that you appear to maybe have an Earth parked in that back box.
I think the previous posts meant a photo with the white box removed, its hard to say what will fit until we know whats behind that box
From whats shown it looks like Dot and dob over a Block wall, so appers about 25mm Depth, so likely a Metal 25mm box will be best, though as per previous posts
Metal = Earthing, do you have any means of testing the earth, ie a multimeter
I think the previous posts meant a photo with the white box removed, its hard to say what will fit until we know whats behind that box
From whats shown it looks like Dot and dob over a Block wall, so appers about 25mm Depth, so likely a Metal 25mm box will be best, though as per previous posts
Metal = Earthing, do you have any means of testing the earth, ie a multimeter
Dispose of the remains of the plastic box.
Cut away plaster to the left to about 25mm / 1 inch.
Fix a 16mm metal box to the wall 25mm to the left of where that box is now, with the open rolled edge hole upwards (shown at the bottom in the linked product page)
Pass cable through the hole.
Fill the gap to the right of the box with filler / plaster, and any other gaps around it.
Connect earth wire to the metal backbox.
Connect the other wires to the new switch
Fix switch to backbox.
Cut away plaster to the left to about 25mm / 1 inch.
Fix a 16mm metal box to the wall 25mm to the left of where that box is now, with the open rolled edge hole upwards (shown at the bottom in the linked product page)
Pass cable through the hole.
Fill the gap to the right of the box with filler / plaster, and any other gaps around it.
Connect earth wire to the metal backbox.
Connect the other wires to the new switch
Fix switch to backbox.
I have bought the materials today and will work on it tomorrow.
I seem to be in a right pickle!
I bought this switch > https://www.toolstation.com/axiom-10a-low-profile-switch/p98193
The screw that came with the switch seemed to be too long and ended up hitting the rear of the metalbox that flameport suggested. I managed to remove one of the screws and replace it with a smaller screw that caused a tight fit on one side of the switch but the other side has another spinning screw!
As I was not willing to repeat everything, I applied some No-nails paste at the back of the box but now it has come off. I am also not sure how to fill up all that gap around the box/switch. I emptied half a tube of filler and this is where I am :
I bought this switch > https://www.toolstation.com/axiom-10a-low-profile-switch/p98193
The screw that came with the switch seemed to be too long and ended up hitting the rear of the metalbox that flameport suggested. I managed to remove one of the screws and replace it with a smaller screw that caused a tight fit on one side of the switch but the other side has another spinning screw!
As I was not willing to repeat everything, I applied some No-nails paste at the back of the box but now it has come off. I am also not sure how to fill up all that gap around the box/switch. I emptied half a tube of filler and this is where I am :
For starters that yellow cable should have been totally within the box, before you filled it.
where in Essex are you
where in Essex are you
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