The amount of times I've looked at them keys
. I've fixed the leak just a little tighten and it's fineI wasn't sure how much to bleed the radiator it comes out a little hole near the top but the water seems clear
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Would this be possible?
- Thread starter bettz1
- Start date
. I've fixed the leak just a little tighten and it's fineI wasn't sure how much to bleed the radiator it comes out a little hole near the top but the water seems clear
So I'm starting this today for some reason this makes me so nervous about messing it up.
The bottom pipe seems quite stable enough that it won't move.
I'm just going to set it up without using the glue to behind with.
I've used a 45 to go back to the wall then a tiny offcut of pipe to connect another 45..
Also with the picture you put on which I'm using as a guide there compression fittings?
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Just got to work out how much pipe I need to cut to put in between the 45s I think it's around 55cm,but does this look ok?
With fitting the tap tails do I need these
Tap tail adaptors
With fitting the tap tails do I need these
Tap tail adaptors
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Yes that all looks fine, wasn't exactly what I had in mind. As per the pic I sent, I meant to bring the pipe straight up the back of the unit vertically after the 45's and then just a 90deg bend and straight over to the bottle/p trap for the basin but no matter -
I would also maybe have gone with these isolation valves to keep the tap pipework at the back of the unit out of the way.
https://www.toolstation.com/flat-faced-male-angled-isolating-valve/p31424
They have flat faces too so no need for the tail adapters
I would also maybe have gone with these isolation valves to keep the tap pipework at the back of the unit out of the way.
https://www.toolstation.com/flat-faced-male-angled-isolating-valve/p31424They have flat faces too so no need for the tail adapters
I'll have another go later it's not welded just wanted to check so so thing like this would be better?
Yes those iso valves would be better hopefully screwfix do the as that's nearer. It's just when I had the smaller iso's on it was leaking more.
The only problem with changing them is hacksawing the olive on the flixi pipe again, or maybe it'll just fit the new one
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Yes, don't forget to dry install the basin waste and trap so you can get the height and length correct.
Unfortunately I don't think they do.
You could also use a 10mmx15mm stem elbow and use the ISO's you have, once the nuts cut off the current stem reducer, you will need new olives though.
I'll nip Toolstation today but knowing my luck ill install them iso valves and then they'll be leaking so will need to go screwfix to buy the stem elbows
Looks better and hopefully I can use shorter tap tails now
Attachments
I'd also look to see if you can push those pipes back into the wall more, just so it's tidier.
They don't seem to budge.
Ive changed the pipe so it goes straight up then into a 90, agree the pipes sticking out are a bit of a nuisance, especially the cold which seems to be Inline with the waste trap.
I take it I'd have to cut the plasterboard to feed them back if they even had the space? The current tap tails are 400mm I think I'd struggle with the angle if I tried 300mm
I take it I'd have to cut the plasterboard to feed them back if they even had the space? The current tap tails are 400mm I think I'd struggle with the angle if I tried 300mm
Yeah - have you loosed the pipe wall covers, they may be holding the pipe? If they simply won't push back in then the only other thing would be to cut the 10mm pipes shorter, that would mean getting a 15mm HEP demounting tool to take the stem reducers off, cut the 10mm plastic back and then refit the couplers. That's if the existing 10mm inserts actually stay in the pipe and don't get stuck in the coupler when demounting.
If they do then it's new inserts and reducing couplers.
If they do then it's new inserts and reducing couplers.
The pipe covers move no problem but the pipes won't budge at all.
Are these the parts I need if I were to shorten them. Also is there a easy way to cut through the pipe? I've got one of these but
Coupler
Inserts
Key
Pipe cutters
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Unfortunately those links don't work, apart from the pipe cutter link. There's something wrong with the site when imbedding links. Better just to cut and paste from the site address straight to the page.
As far as the pipes are concerned then there may be elbows behind it and they won't go back further. Those pipe cutters are fine and if you have one of the green keys
a couple of these 
and a couple of these, just in case 
then you can shorten the pipework
In fact if you have the inserts and new reducing stem couplers then you don't need the key as you just cut the pipe back, fit the inserts and the new reducers, then just take the ISO valves off the old reducers and refit onto the new ones.
As far as the pipes are concerned then there may be elbows behind it and they won't go back further. Those pipe cutters are fine and if you have one of the green keys
a couple of these and a couple of these, just in case then you can shorten the pipeworkIn fact if you have the inserts and new reducing stem couplers then you don't need the key as you just cut the pipe back, fit the inserts and the new reducers, then just take the ISO valves off the old reducers and refit onto the new ones.
I did wonder about the links not opening thought it was my phone.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-stem-coupler-f-10mm-x-m-15mm/7947f?ref=SFAppShare
Yes the stems and key are the same just checking the couplers are the same.
I'll get the key it'll come in handy for future projects.
I'm abit nervous about turning the hot water off at the stopcock as when I turn it back on it hasn't worked twice cue panic!! Sprayed it yesterday with some wd 40 left a few mins and it seems to have done the trick either that or by switching the cold back in it did something.
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