Chainsaw chain dull in no time

How are you sharpening the chain? The depth gauges look to be very variable in size. Is the angle of the cutting edge on the cutter correct? - most are 35 degrees.

Finally, as others have said - the saw should be using an Oil tank of chain oil to a tank of fuel; any less and you have a problem. Without the chain and bar in place with the engine running there must be a flow of oil seen into the area of the bar mounting. There may be a hole through the width of the bar fed by the chain oil pump where the oil appears with the bar off.
You say the chain oil flow is adjustable - 'play' with the adjuster with the bar off to find out which give the greatest flow.
 
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I’ve not sharpened it at all.
The oil flows out fine at the screw setting at present.
I do top the oil up but not a tank full like the fuel tank full.
As mentioned the chain seems dry.
Smoked when in use & hard to cut. manualy poured oil on chain & cut the same log in seconds.
 
You must sharpen the chain and set the depth gauge.
There’s no point in doing any more until that is done.
 
I’ve never used a chain saw that uses a tank of oil to a tank of fuel.
I’ve found it to be more like two tanks of fuel to one of oil.
 
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I understand that the chain will require sharpening but my issue is after say 20 minutes of use it’s smoking & dull.

This post is to try & find out why after only 20 minutes of use it’s dull already.
 
Maybe because there was a nail or something in the wood you were cutting, you hit a stone or the chain wasn’t set properly.
The chain must be sharp and the depth gauge set properly or you are farting against thunder.
Do you have the proper tools to sharpen the chain and set the depth?
Can you post a picture of your tools?
 
No sharpening tools.
Ive purchased an Oregon chain but whilst I’m awaiting it to arrive I was fault finding so this new chain don’t end up the same state in same amount of time.
 
In that case, you must get the proper tools and probably some training on how to use both the machine and the tools, it’s important.
If the chain touches something that isn’t wood, it’s instantly blunt and will require sharpening.
Sharpening is a bit of an art, you get a feel for it and you won’t be good at it right away no matter how good your gear is.
 
I’ve taken note of what youve written thanks.
So the chain is dull but that still leaves me looking at why the chain isn’t oiled much.
Do all chains have oil holes in them as this one hasn’t so must be another way of getting on the chain.
For the amount of oil I had seen coming out of the oil feed hole in a very short amount of time doesn’t add up to why the chain doesn’t have anyway near that amount on it. It was flowing really nice but the chain didn’t show any signs at all of of it.
Tomorrow I will look to see if I can see how the oil gets into the chain.
In the photo I uploaded where the oil can be seen flowing there is a black plate that fits over those 2 posts & held by a small screw. I was expecting then a hole in the bar to align with this plate etc & that is how it’s lubricated but there isn’t.
 
Because youve used a chain with less drive links than intended, maybe pulling the bar right back to get the shorter chain on has put the oil hole out of line?
Did it oil ok with the original 53 link chain?
 
I don't think chains are particularly oily - they're not black and oily like a push bike chain. The oil isn't really their for the chain, the main purpose is to oil the bar the chain slides on, obviously it is important a bit of the oil gets into the rollers in the chain, but the oil is not their to oil the cut as in what you would find on a metal lathe.

I really can't figure out what is going on from what you say - don't even get why it suddenly cuts well when you pour oil over the chain and cut. Keep posting though I do want to know what the solution is.
 
Because youve used a chain with less drive links than intended, maybe pulling the bar right back to get the shorter chain on has put the oil hole out of line?
Did it oil ok with the original 53 link chain?


Valid point and might be the answer.
I will compare the bar location with the 52 & 53 drive link chain.
 
I will mark the bar with the 52 link chain fitted then check with the 53 link chain fitted.
Then see where it aligns with the oil feed.

Good answer thanks.
 
It’s not cutting more with oil on the chain. If that is the case, why do I bother setting my chain every time I use it, I’d be as well pouring oil on it.
The chain is blunt. Don’t fit a new chain until you know what you are doing.
You would have been better getting a new bar, chain, and the tools to keep it in condition, some Kevlar trousers and training because I have a feeling that you are not ready for a chainsaw.
 
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