Saw thanks. Ok so 10mm2 is plenty even with insulation. Future proofed at least in case I end up having to use an all electric cooker.
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All electric cooker
- Thread starter TryAgain1
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- cooker wiring
10mm² yes, but not the type of cable you used.
Just put in a 32A RCBO then all is good despite your mistakes.
I used a Prysmian 6242Y Grey 10mm² Twin & Earth Cable. Says max operating temp is 70oC.
My DP switch has no socket outlet
That youtube video says "first 10A of rated current plus 30% of remainder"
So say I use a 32A RCBO. Then if I use a 12 kW electric cooker (12,000W / 230V = 52.1 A. So using diversity it's 10 A + (52.1 - 10A)x 30% = 10 A +12.63 = 22.63A.
I could use a 14kW electric cooker (14,000/230V = 60.8A, diversity it's 10A + ((60.8 - 10A)x30%) = 10 + 15.24 = 25.24A.
16kW electric cooker (16,000 /230V = 69.5A, diversity it's 10A + ((69.5 - 10)x30%) = 10 + 17.86 = 27.86A
electric calc says a 70oC 10mm2 cable is fine with the worst case scenario (any option) of the installation method for a 32A load.
So in theory I can get up to 16kW electric cooker. Though 14kW more likely
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Ok.
Yes.
Yes - near enough.
20kW @ 240V is the maximum with 32A MCB/RCBO.
Yes, but you must use a 32A MCB/RCBO
Well yes, either would be ok but, as above, 20kW @ 240V (19.167 @ 230V) is the maximum.
I already have a 32A RCBO with 6mm2 going to a 45A DP switch. In theory that should be enough to power an electric hob.
So I could use this second 32A RCBO with 10mm22 going to a second 45A DP switch just to power an oven
So I could use the 1st 6mm2 32A cooker outlet to power an electric hob and use the 2nd 10mm2 32A cooker outlet to power an electric oven. Just an idea
Not theory. It is all most dwellings have for the cooker circuit for some reason.
Obviously but it was not needed.
Or, as above, You could have used the original circuit for any cooking appliances you are likely to get in the future.
I think that , by now, you might have started to envisage that you could use the existing cooker circuit for that total load after applying diversity and therefore not actually use any other cable or any other circuit and it would be very very unlikely to cause any foreseeable problems.
You might feel that using a 10.0 circuit loses less volt drop therefore less energy wasted in the cable and more for the actual cooker - only a tiny smidgeon even by smidgeon standards so is it really worth it?
You might even run one cable for part of that load and the other cable for the other part of the load, again an almost worthless smidgeon.
When considering the total load of the cooker circuit it might be one bog standard cooker design of an oven, an eye level grill and a 4 ringed hob.
It could even be separate appliances each a small distance apart , that does not changing the load circumstances as far as your calculation for total load and usage.
If it`s pretty standard-ish type of use for a standard domestic family of two adults and approx 2.4 children or thereabouts, that changes absolutely nothing either.
If you were running this all as say 4 cooking appliances in high usage for prolonged periods 24/7 then yes things might change some.
So, in the real world, do the simple calculations and keep things simple, do not waste time and money doing something with no realistic benefit.
In reality the UK voltage is 240V aways has been and always will be.
Nowadays it has re-declared as 230V by the stroke of a pen by many reps in a smoke filled room and the plus/minus limits was opened up so just about any European country fits in (or can do) and we then have a common standard for all of those circuits and all of those appliances being able to work well enough in any of those countries.
If you want to do those calculations using either of those voltages for each calculation accordingly to arrive at the worst case scenario for that particular calculation you will not be far off whichever voltage you consider but if you use the worst one each time you will be very fractionally better.
If you have a consumer unit with ten 40A MCBs that does not mean you will ever draw 400A (although you could do if you chose to and the system could take that).
Your MCB (or any other Overcurrent Protective Device such as a rewireable fuse for example) is matched to suit the cable for one or two or three possible functions. 1/ Short Circuit. 2/ Earth Fault & 3/ Overload. Some have additional devices - example an RCD as the sole protection for Earth Fault or (more likely) as additional protection for Earth Fault.
Standard circuits for standard solutions are near universal but you can if you want to use sound engineering judgement to use non standard considerations, but why go to the bother unless it really is of likely great benefit?
KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid - is the first step to achieve happy wiring.
Comply in all ways with all regs in a KISS manner unless situations dictate otherwise.
And if you want to do it a bit better then OK its up to you.
You might feel that using a 10.0 circuit loses less volt drop therefore less energy wasted in the cable and more for the actual cooker - only a tiny smidgeon even by smidgeon standards so is it really worth it?
You might even run one cable for part of that load and the other cable for the other part of the load, again an almost worthless smidgeon.
When considering the total load of the cooker circuit it might be one bog standard cooker design of an oven, an eye level grill and a 4 ringed hob.
It could even be separate appliances each a small distance apart , that does not changing the load circumstances as far as your calculation for total load and usage.
If it`s pretty standard-ish type of use for a standard domestic family of two adults and approx 2.4 children or thereabouts, that changes absolutely nothing either.
If you were running this all as say 4 cooking appliances in high usage for prolonged periods 24/7 then yes things might change some.
So, in the real world, do the simple calculations and keep things simple, do not waste time and money doing something with no realistic benefit.
In reality the UK voltage is 240V aways has been and always will be.
Nowadays it has re-declared as 230V by the stroke of a pen by many reps in a smoke filled room and the plus/minus limits was opened up so just about any European country fits in (or can do) and we then have a common standard for all of those circuits and all of those appliances being able to work well enough in any of those countries.
If you want to do those calculations using either of those voltages for each calculation accordingly to arrive at the worst case scenario for that particular calculation you will not be far off whichever voltage you consider but if you use the worst one each time you will be very fractionally better.
If you have a consumer unit with ten 40A MCBs that does not mean you will ever draw 400A (although you could do if you chose to and the system could take that).
Your MCB (or any other Overcurrent Protective Device such as a rewireable fuse for example) is matched to suit the cable for one or two or three possible functions. 1/ Short Circuit. 2/ Earth Fault & 3/ Overload. Some have additional devices - example an RCD as the sole protection for Earth Fault or (more likely) as additional protection for Earth Fault.
Standard circuits for standard solutions are near universal but you can if you want to use sound engineering judgement to use non standard considerations, but why go to the bother unless it really is of likely great benefit?
KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid - is the first step to achieve happy wiring.
Comply in all ways with all regs in a KISS manner unless situations dictate otherwise.
And if you want to do it a bit better then OK its up to you.
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It's enough to power the hob and the oven(s).
Have you really got a 17kW+ oven?
Yes, it is an idea.
Whatever other characteristics it may have, it is undeniably an idea.
I don't have a 17kW oven but I could get one
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With a 6mm 32 amp circuit? Yes you could.
Or with a 10mm2 32amp circuit. Even a 17kw oven off a 10mm2 32A circuit. Lots of potential.
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My house only has a 60 amp main fuse thats less than all your cookers
"Whatever other characteristics it may have, it is undeniably an idea."
Hmm, well Yes
an idea yes.
But are you not going a bit OTT?
It might be said by some that I myself sometimes go a bit OTT with arrangements or redundancy or safety or convenience and those that say it are not always wrong.
And yes I have sometimes considered trying to mitigate, to some extent, admittedly rare events.
Take flying, some people are frightened of flying, fair enough.
As an overall generalisation it is bloody safe.
Probably the most dangerous moments are take off and landing.
Once you at a considerable height you get more time to correct a risky situation such s dropping a few hundred feet.
Take off and landing a six foot drop could be catastrophic, for a start.
Yet flying is, comparatively safe.
When you jet off on holiday the most dangerous part is not the flight - not any of it!
The dangerous part of the journeys by far is from home to airport and airport to resort, very dangerous perhaps, but flying isn`t, yet we all understand someone being a bit apprehensive of flying though.
Humans are not always totally logical but it`s best we make some effort to try to be.
Supposedly, someone once said he had studied the flying situation and concluded that, if you lived to be 300 years old, and flew everyday of your life, you could reasonably expect to crash once, and "probably" survive it!
I wish it was so relatively safe to travel to the local supermarket a couple of miles by car!
Of course whatever figures you put into that little fable does not really matter, it just explains we sometimes go a bit OTT with our thinking.
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Fair enough. What wire strippers do I need for 10mm2 cables?My house only has a 60 amp main fuse thats less than all your cookers
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