Sweet, i'm sure we can all take it from there. After all it would be irresponsible to advise someone on how to do something if they didn't know that they didn't know things.
House Re-Wire Plan please critique
- Thread starter mattysmithuk
- Start date
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If you want to see what sparks really think about the whole LABC notification nonsense, I suggest you read this.
http://www.electriciansforums.co.uk...electrical-forum/27830-part-p-punishment.html
If you can read through the on-site guide and ensure you meet the regs, usae the correct test equipment (good vids on youtube how to do the testing) and do it cheaper, I would say go for it.
As long as you understand that technically you will be breaking the law.
http://www.electriciansforums.co.uk...electrical-forum/27830-part-p-punishment.html
If you can read through the on-site guide and ensure you meet the regs, usae the correct test equipment (good vids on youtube how to do the testing) and do it cheaper, I would say go for it.
As long as you understand that technically you will be breaking the law.
If you notify the building control department and can convince them you are competent to do the work and they will accept your signature on a form then you are NOT breaking the law.
Some building control department have provided the necessary form to the DIY owner to fill in and sign that the work has been carried out to the design submitted.
Some building control departments can check your design for compliance, others may require that you provide all the worked out calculations and copies of the relevant tables along with the design. Enough to enable them to jsut cross reference between your figures and the tables used in the calculation.
Most appreciate that the competant DIY working on his or her own house is less likely to intentional bodge work than a cowboy who is intending to cut costs and increase profit from a paying customer.
You will still have to pay for the priveledge though.
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You have to pay for the same privilege if you build an extension with your own hands, or do a loft conversion with your own hands, or install a WC with your own hands, and so on and so forth.
Is Handymantips back?
Hey Guys still here working on my design one thing I would like to ask is when you are making calculations for cables being run together and the resultant reduced current carrying ability of the cable within its thermal envelope it does not mention (that I can see) how much of the cable in length needs to be closer than the allowed minimum before you need to apply the deduction.
I.E I will have a lot of wires exiting the consumer unit they will be close perhaps touching for the first 10cm before they separate out also where I want to take the cables up and through the ceiling there is also a point at which I will need to run the cables together for a short period to avoid drilling 10 holes in the ceiling or cutting a large hole to provide the required separation do I need to adjust the spec of the whole cable if they are closer than the minimum separation distance for any period at all of the cable run? my outlook on this is that I will but I wanted to check as the application of the reduction in current carrying capacity due to this means I will require 4.0mm instead of 2.5mm for my kitchen final ring circuit and so there is a cost implication.
Thanks in advance, once I have this a couple more things ironed out I should be in a position to provide a list of all circuits, cable lengths with support calculations, protective devices with appropriate calculations and proposed testing plan once installed.
I.E I will have a lot of wires exiting the consumer unit they will be close perhaps touching for the first 10cm before they separate out also where I want to take the cables up and through the ceiling there is also a point at which I will need to run the cables together for a short period to avoid drilling 10 holes in the ceiling or cutting a large hole to provide the required separation do I need to adjust the spec of the whole cable if they are closer than the minimum separation distance for any period at all of the cable run? my outlook on this is that I will but I wanted to check as the application of the reduction in current carrying capacity due to this means I will require 4.0mm instead of 2.5mm for my kitchen final ring circuit and so there is a cost implication.
Thanks in advance, once I have this a couple more things ironed out I should be in a position to provide a list of all circuits, cable lengths with support calculations, protective devices with appropriate calculations and proposed testing plan once installed.
Grouping factors for domestic installations can usually be ignored.
This is because in virtually all cases, the cables will not be operating at anywhere near their maximum load, and even if they do, it will be for a very short time.
This is because in virtually all cases, the cables will not be operating at anywhere near their maximum load, and even if they do, it will be for a very short time.
Matty - see 523.5 and Note 9 to table 4C1.
H
holmslaw
..
Thanks, I'll look that up later when I get home to my BRB.
From the other replies it looks as if I can ignore this deduction which will make my maths a little easier.
What is peoples opinion on running power to a loft in the event of a loft conversion in future and to provide lighting, currently there is no power in the loft would someone recommend that I take the upstairs final ring into the loft with a socket and a obviously the lighting feed will allready be there for the 1st floor but should each floor be individually wired, I know what the limits would be for the cable length etc I'm just looking for advice from a practical everyday point of view do you bother with a sperate circuit or just use the first floor lighting radial and have that supply the loftspace/2nd floor.
Realistically you're only going to have maybe 2 or 3 additional lighting points in a standard loft conversion, and assuming this is just yoour average house there will be plenty of capacity on the upstairs lighting circuit to add these extra lights on.
Sockets. Hmm personally while you've got the oppourtunity I'd put in a seperate circuit. Maybe something like a 4.0mm² radial for a 20A or 32A circuit depending on length and how it's run.
Sockets. Hmm personally while you've got the oppourtunity I'd put in a seperate circuit. Maybe something like a 4.0mm² radial for a 20A or 32A circuit depending on length and how it's run.
It would be ideal on a seperate lighting circuit although not crucial. A ring final circuit for a loft conversion, infact a ring final circuit full stop, why? a 20A radial would be more than sufficient. You could of course run a 10.0mm2, 2.5mm2 and 1mm2 to the loft and leave them coiled up with the other ends near the CU if there is a chance you plan on a loft conversion, this will allow you a shower circuit, socket circuit and lighting.
I expect people who need to have.
By not making mistakes.
What's wrong with them, or that formula?
What makes you so optimistic?
After reading some recent posts here I am afraid many of those who need to wouldn't be able to
H
holmslaw
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