How's my CU looking?

[ban-all-sheds]

Here's one i did the other week.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y159/Dazz0i/IMG_0003.jpg

appreciate any contructive comments!

There is 18 modules worth of space in there, and the N & E bars are labelled 1-18.

Modules 1 & 2 have the main switch and 3 & 4 one of the RCDs, so why are there conductors in positions 1-4 on the N & E bars?

 

[Dazz0i]

if i'd not used 1-4 it'd mean i'd have 2 circuits on the right hand busbar on the lefthand. neutral/earth bar. the busbar was already split into 2 preset halfs.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

So is the busbar split in a different place to the N bar split?

 

[Dazz0i]

the busbar is split into 2 halfs to allow for the RCCB at either end and then 6 breakers on each.

if i'd not used all 1-4 it'd have ment that the 6th breaker on the busbar would've been on the wrong side neutral/eather bar.

I thought the numbers were more to identify the neutral/earths as being "paired".

(obviously always happy to learn though! )

 

[sparkyspike]

So when I go to the wholesalers, I'll ask about the RCBOs(I'd have them for the ring finals and put all the lighting MCBs on the RCD side) and older style MCBs and if they have them, I'll neaten the whole sheebang.

Whilst you're there, ask for a copy of BS7671:2008.

Oh, and Part P.

 

[mo2]

So when I go to the wholesalers, I'll ask about the RCBOs(I'd have them for the ring finals and put all the lighting MCBs on the RCD side) and older style MCBs and if they have them, I'll neaten the whole sheebang.

You want to split your circuits so Upstairs lights are on RCBO and downstairs sockets are on RCBO. Then upstairs socket circuit and downstairs lights are on RCD. or vice-versa.

Could you explain why.

Also BS7671 looks a tad expensive given the amount of electrical work I do, most of my questions are answered by searching this brilliant forum, so thanks all

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Could you explain why.

If you knew enough to be installing CUs you'd know why.

What about those test results, BTW?

Also BS7671 looks a tad expensive given the amount of electrical work I do,

Fine - then please restrict yourself to changing the odd light, don't attempt tasks which are beyond what you're prepared to do properly.

 

[mo2]

Could you explain why.

If you knew enough to be installing CUs you'd know why.

What about those test results, BTW?

Also BS7671 looks a tad expensive given the amount of electrical work I do,

Fine - then please restrict yourself to changing the odd light, don't attempt tasks which are beyond what you're prepared to do properly.

I didn't install the CU, just the 3 MCBS. My guess would be so that the lights don't go off in the area where the fault is. And those test results are non-existant.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I didn't install the CU, just the 3 MCBS. My guess would be so that the lights don't go off in the area where the fault is. And those test results are non-existant.

It's so you have either light or power to supply lighting if residual device trips and installing MCBS needs schedules and certificates.
If you want to learn get BS7671, OSG and GN3, lots of good advice on here put you'll get pulled to bits mate

 

[kmeeres]

Not the neatest job, but seen worse.

There is copper on show on the neutral to the top of the RCCB.

The MCB's should bee in numerical order starting with the highest nearest to the main isolator and the RCCB

i.e. 32,32, 16

The MCB's look untidy with the gaps, perhaps you may want to check there tightness to the busbar

The picture is a touch fuzzy but you look to have the first earth terminated in the bonding termination, talking of which where is the bonding to gas and water (assuming this is domestic).

Iwould like to see more of the outer sheath removed from the tails showing the inner sheaths of blue and brown

I would suggest that F16 at 1/200 sec would give a much better depth of view thus eliminating fuzziness.

 

[LiamPope]

I would suggest that F16 at 1/200 sec would give a much better depth of view thus eliminating fuzziness.

As long as he has a big spotlight to point at it, or his camera goes up to ISO 1000000

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I've got a 1000W Braun Nizolux he can borrow - that's pretty bright.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I didn't install the CU, just the 3 MCBS.

And new cables too..

The old colours was because the shop had run out of the new colours

So, new MCBs, new cables... What does that add up to?

My observation still stands - if you knew enough to be installing new circuits you'd know why, and new circuits are also something you shouldn't be doing given your attitude to doing them properly.

And those test results are non-existant.

Completely unacceptable.

Don't mention part P thanks

Shall I mention that you are behaving stupidly and irresponsibly?

 

[Click-Sure]

Also BS7671 looks a tad expensive given the amount of electrical work I do, most of my questions are answered by searching this brilliant forum, so thanks all

I'm going to discontinue posting on this forumif this is what it encourages.

 

[sparkyspike]

If you don't want to buy BS7671:2008, then at least buy the On-Site Guide.

You CANNOT safely construct a new circuit without testing it. It is impossible to prove the safety and function of what you have done without testing. Even the most experienced electrician will test all circuits - why do you think you are any better? In fact it is likely, judging by your comments, that you have made errors.

PART P!