How's my CU looking?

Does anyone here actually sleeve red conductors brown? I just stick on harmonised label. (just after others opinions)

Also how long did that cu take? Ten mins?!
Take another ten mins to straighten each conductor and form them into right angles. That will make it look 1000x better.
 
Breakers not in size order
Not the neatest job, but seen worse.
The MCB's should bee in numerical order starting with the highest nearest to the main isolator and the RCCB
i.e. 32,32, 16

Why ?? Lots of sparks seem to do this is it just force of habbit ? It certainly isn't worth changing it. Or will the reply be so that the bus bar should take the most load on the shortest sections :lol:


sparkyspike said:
Oh my God - the entire neutral bar is uninsulated! (:lol:)

This made me smile - people do get hung up on copper showing on terminations when there are dirty great connector blocks and busbars inside the CU - thats what the cover is for ! Just look at the manufacturers links inside most CU's ! I think you are more likely to get a sound termination with more insulation removed than too little.
 
It is often nessacery to have the CU main switch turned on with the lid off either both to allow certain types of testing and because sometimes it is not reasonable to have every circuit isolated (more of an issue on commercial than domestic). That's why CUs have things like busbar covers.

In this case it's only a neutral so not so bad but it's still sloppy IMO.
 
Don't mention part P thanks :wink:
EAWR, HASWA etc etc etc :P

Personally I don't like the look of the newer MCBs - just look cack the way that they stick out further albeit there is little you can do about it. Just a lack of pride from Crabtree who were once a reasonably good make.
Nothing technically wrong with using them.
 
Thanks for all the comments. I've still got to neaten up the new cables going into the CU with some trunking as they're only clipped roughly at the moment to prevent movement.

So when I go to the wholesalers, I'll ask about the RCBOs(I'd have them for the ring finals and put all the lighting MCBs on the RCD side) and older style MCBs and if they have them, I'll neaten the whole sheebang.
 
Here's one i did the other week. :)

IMG_0003.jpg


appreciate any contructive comments! :)
 
cheap tat? as in, cheap board?

I didn't supply the board, boss got it. spose he see's it as "his profit margin" using one. To be fair though, there's plenty of room in them, and they're solid enough. not sure on the quality of the breakers and how long they'll last though.
 
sounds about right from my ex boss..... if he could ever save a pound he would, regardless of quality.

but then on other things he'd waste money like no-ones business.
 
So when I go to the wholesalers, I'll ask about the RCBOs(I'd have them for the ring finals and put all the lighting MCBs on the RCD side) and older style MCBs and if they have them, I'll neaten the whole sheebang.
You want to split your circuits so Upstairs lights are on RCBO and downstairs sockets are on RCBO. Then upstairs socket circuit and downstairs lights are on RCD. or vice-versa.
 
that neutral on the left is supposed to go UNDER the earths.. it's pushing them down by the looks of it..

it means that you'll have to fiddle with that neutral to get the earths out for periodic inspections..

tails also look undersized, and old colours too..
 
They are old colours. But are 25mm.

along with 16mm earth and 10mm main's bonding.

See what you're saying about the netural, it's not pushing on it, but agree, is certainly in the way!
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top