Use a 3 way WiFi switch for a single light?

[DIYpessimist]

Hi all,
I have a couple of spare 3 way smart switches. I have a single light switch in my shed and thought I might as well make it 'smart'! So I wondered if I can use my old 3 way smart switch...

I've attached a picture of the wiring for the existing switch, a pic of the back of the smart 3-way switch and a pic of the other wiring in the back of the light switch box. The front of the WiFi switch just has the one button.

There is just one light and just one switch in the shed, all working fine. Is it possible to use the three way switch? The WiFi switch make is Maxico. Had tucked away in the garage for a few years!

There are neutral wires in the switch box but not currently connected to the existing switch.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[JohnW2]

I have a couple of spare 3 way smart switches. I have a single light switch in my shed and thought I might as well make it 'smart'! So I wondered if I can use my old 3 way smart switch... .... There is just one light and just one switch in the shed, all working fine. Is it possible to use the three way switch? The WiFi switch make is Maxico. Had tucked away in the garage for a few years! .... There are neutral wires in the switch box but not currently connected to the existing switch.

Provided that the 'neutral wires' at the current switch are, indeed, neutrals, I see no reason why you cannot do as you wish.

Kind Regards, John

 

[DIYpessimist]

That's good to know. Thank you. Could you advise where the wires should go?

was thinking both blue neutral wires go into the N connection on the WiFi switch.

The brown wire currently going into Common on the existing switch, goes into either of the wavey line connections on the WiFi switch.

And the other brown wire currently going to L1 on the current switch, goes into the L/Load connector of the WiFi switch.

Does that sound right? Thanks again

 

[DIYpessimist]

That's good to know. Thank you. Could you advise where the wires should go?

was thinking both blue neutral wires go into the N connection on the WiFi switch.

The brown wire currently going into Common on the existing switch, goes into either of the wavey line connections on the WiFi switch.

And the other brown wire currently going to L1 on the current switch, goes into the L/Load connector of the WiFi switch.

Does that sound right? Thanks again

Does the way I've phrased this make it obvious I'm not a qualified electrician!?

 

[RandomGrinch]

Does that sound right?

It does sound about right to me

The circuit diagram shows that the switch should work with those connections.
But if it doesn't, just swap the 'L/Load' and 'wavey line' connections.

...and as above, hopefully the blue wires are neutrals!

 

[JohnW2]

Does that sound right? Thanks again

That sounds about right to me, too.

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

Does the way I've phrased this make it obvious I'm not a qualified electrician!?

Perhaps - but, for what it's worth, I'm not a "qualified electrician", either, so I don't think you need to worry too much!

What matters is "what one knows", not "what one is"

Kind Regards, John

 

[DIYpessimist]

Thanks everyone. This has given me the confidence to try it out. Will wait for daylight though!

 

[EFLImpudence]

Just to say for those who don't know -

These are to us known as two-way switches - three-way in the U.S.

 

[JohnW2]

Just to say for those who don't know - These are to us known as two-way switches - three-way in the U.S.

Indeed - and some of the listings for this product actually sort-of make that point. For example ...

MILFRA KS-641 is a luxury tempered glass remote control 3 way light switch. Most of the time, two way smart switch or three way smart switch refers to the same thing.

Kind Regards, John

 

[plugwash]

It doesn't inspire confidence in the manufacturer though when they use US terminlogy to describe a product aimed at the UK market.

 

[JohnW2]

It doesn't inspire confidence in the manufacturer though when they use US terminlogy to describe a product aimed at the UK market.

True. However, although it's described as an EU/UK version, and fits a UK backbox I rather suspect that the 'works' (and documentation) were originally intended for a US market.

In any event, for what it's worth, I personally wouldn't be too concerned about the extent to which the documentation "inspired confidence" - after all, it's only a light switch and, short of bursting into flames, it can't really do any harm, even if it doesn't work as intended (or not for long)!

Kind Regards, John

 

[ericmark]

These are to us known as two-way switches - three-way in the U.S.

That confused me too, two way it can switch to either output, so could supply a green and a red lamp, three way it can supply three lamps, red, amber and green for example.

We don't normally use the switch that way around, but that's how it got it's name, could also call it a change over switch.

I can't work out why one would call a switch shown here three way? This would be a three way pair of switched easy enough to count the three paths. However in real terms the switch needs power, the neutral is clearly marked but as to which line wires it can draw power from is not the one marked L/Load is clearly an output, but the diagram that @RandomGrinch shows has it as feed on one switch and load on the other, not sure if with an electronic switch if you can reverse them?

The two way smart switching I installed used a relay the connections at the bottom go to the original two way switches, but looks for a change in state, so does not matter if physical or wifi is used you can switch on/off from any.

The switches have a sensing wire, the slave is connected to master with a sensing wire, and the instructions which come with the switch shows how to connect.
This is the problem, there is no longer a single wiring diagram which fits all, and in some cases like the relay shown, we have extra low voltage and low voltage and they must not be mixed. So it is pointless using a diagram from another switch, we need to use the diagram which came with your switch and no other. I did find an advert for KS-641 smart switch with the diagram @RandomGrinch showed, however it states 100 - 240 volt, and your picture shows 220 - 240 volt, so clearly not the same switch even if it has same number on it.

And the incorrect labels like live instead of line, means you can't trust it has been translated correctly, so in really terms it is a suck it and see, unless you have some better instructions.

 

[JohnW2]

This is the problem, there is no longer a single wiring diagram which fits all, and in some cases like the relay shown, we have extra low voltage and low voltage and they must not be mixed. View attachment 298251

Since when was 100V AC regarded as ELV?

Kind Regards, John

 

[ericmark]

Not put a meter on the control wires, but sure well under 100 volt, and not even sure if AC. The sign says don't connect to between 100 and 240 volt AC.

The problem is we have no idea what the instructions which came with the switch says, and it seems odd to use two electronic switches, more likely one switch is a simple two way switch and one electronic.

What is missing is which termial/s need a line supply? it could take a supply from all three, or just the com which seems unlikely as marked load, or either of the two change over contacts.

It seems unlikely trial and error would cause any harm, but it really should say on the instructions, not require a suck it and see method.