What am I doing wrong?
- Thread starter ban-all-sheds
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impact resistance, fire resistance, chemical resistance, mechanical rigidity?
any number of factors..
9 times out of 10 you don't specifically earth the conduit, you just screw it to the socket box or the trunking etc and don't make any attempt to remove paint for a good electrical connection..
any number of factors..
9 times out of 10 you don't specifically earth the conduit, you just screw it to the socket box or the trunking etc and don't make any attempt to remove paint for a good electrical connection..
So you need a good connection then, agreed.
do you test your continuity on the conduit by using a 20A continuity meter? there's a special one for conduit you know..
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We are talking about two different things here.
1. I run a cpc with the phase and neutral of the same size this is in my opinion the main earth. This is connected at the back of any accessories to the relevant point.
2. I DO NOT use the conduit to carry the earth it only for mechanicle proctection... END OF STORY
At the main board the conduit is bushed into the board and board is earthed-- yes the conduit is earthed BUT NOT as the main earth.
Am I the only person who runs a cpc for the circuit and then does r1+r2???
1. I run a cpc with the phase and neutral of the same size this is in my opinion the main earth. This is connected at the back of any accessories to the relevant point.
2. I DO NOT use the conduit to carry the earth it only for mechanicle proctection... END OF STORY
At the main board the conduit is bushed into the board and board is earthed-- yes the conduit is earthed BUT NOT as the main earth.
Am I the only person who runs a cpc for the circuit and then does r1+r2???
no, everybody else does too..
if you use a knockout and do the same on the socket then odds are that it's not earthed. there's a layer of paint between the bush and the box, and the box and the coupler... unless you specifically remove the paint or drill a hole ( in which case the swarf MAY provide a decent earth ) then you can't rely on that as it being earthed..
if you use a knockout and do the same on the socket then odds are that it's not earthed. there's a layer of paint between the bush and the box, and the box and the coupler... unless you specifically remove the paint or drill a hole ( in which case the swarf MAY provide a decent earth ) then you can't rely on that as it being earthed..
Coljack thanks for the support.
Why are the others going off on a tangent about perfection with threading ??? if its threads up it will do. Or do they work in a different world to me ???
Time is money we are not looking for perfection on a thread.
I would remove the swarf from inside the conduit at the end with a reamer.
Why are the others going off on a tangent about perfection with threading ??? if its threads up it will do. Or do they work in a different world to me ???
Time is money we are not looking for perfection on a thread.
I would remove the swarf from inside the conduit at the end with a reamer.
once the dies start cutting anywhere near that standard it's time for a new set, but I don't expect every thread to be perfect..
on the contrary, that mangled therad my grip better in some of the couplers or conduit boxes because it's not perfect, slightly fatter than usual or has a slightly shallower groove in the bottom of the thread.
I too own an electric threader, and on some jobs it's a godsend.. when you have to put in hundreds of lengths at 2m centers ( so 1950 threaded ) for a lighting grid in a hospital it soon gets painfull on hands arms and elbows if you're threading all day long..
on the contrary, that mangled therad my grip better in some of the couplers or conduit boxes because it's not perfect, slightly fatter than usual or has a slightly shallower groove in the bottom of the thread.
I too own an electric threader, and on some jobs it's a godsend.. when you have to put in hundreds of lengths at 2m centers ( so 1950 threaded ) for a lighting grid in a hospital it soon gets painfull on hands arms and elbows if you're threading all day long..
I have never needed to use, or ever even seen anyone using an electric threading machine.
Are you not strong enough to use a hand threader?
Are you not strong enough to use a hand threader?
In no particular order
1) I used Trefolex.
2) The die is brand new. In fact the whole tool is - this was its very first outing.
3) I did back it off now and then - couldn't say if it was after every turn, or if it was by half a turn.
4) I did not try taking it all the way off and cleaning the die.
5) Don't see how I could reverse the die even if I wanted to - it only fits in one way round.
6) It may "do" - I tried a coupler and it screwed on and didn't wobble, but I didn't try tightening it up to see if it could take that. But that isn't the point - it's carp, and I don't put up with carp. Were I an apprentice I'd fully expect to hear the words "cut it off and do it again", interspersed with a few observations on my skills, parenthood and onanistic tendencies.
Anyway - thanks for all the replies - I'll just practice some more - I didn't expect to get it 100% right first time, but I thought I'd check in case I was doing something obviously wrong.
1) I used Trefolex.
2) The die is brand new. In fact the whole tool is - this was its very first outing.
3) I did back it off now and then - couldn't say if it was after every turn, or if it was by half a turn.
4) I did not try taking it all the way off and cleaning the die.
5) Don't see how I could reverse the die even if I wanted to - it only fits in one way round.
6) It may "do" - I tried a coupler and it screwed on and didn't wobble, but I didn't try tightening it up to see if it could take that. But that isn't the point - it's carp, and I don't put up with carp. Were I an apprentice I'd fully expect to hear the words "cut it off and do it again", interspersed with a few observations on my skills, parenthood and onanistic tendencies.
Anyway - thanks for all the replies - I'll just practice some more - I didn't expect to get it 100% right first time, but I thought I'd check in case I was doing something obviously wrong.
I am not saying to use the conduit at the circuit protective conductor.
The conduit however still needs to be earthed otherwise there is little point in using it. It is an exposed conductive part.
In order for the conduit to be earthed along it's length the connections need to be good.
The conduit however still needs to be earthed otherwise there is little point in using it. It is an exposed conductive part.
In order for the conduit to be earthed along it's length the connections need to be good.
it's not your fault.. some stocks and dies are just crap..
I take it they came in a box, and the ends of the handles are sort of squared off ( slight dome to it but a definite sharp corner )
it may be that they are "oversharp", or that the conduit is cheap and nasty stuff..
they may "wear in" after they take the swarf off the cutting edges a bit..
are they photos of 4 different ends or just the first one you did?
I take it they came in a box, and the ends of the handles are sort of squared off ( slight dome to it but a definite sharp corner )
it may be that they are "oversharp", or that the conduit is cheap and nasty stuff..
they may "wear in" after they take the swarf off the cutting edges a bit..
are they photos of 4 different ends or just the first one you did?
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BAS the die can be run onto the thread the other way around. Its a bit tricky to get it started, but you can do it. However, the die has a small taper that therefore normally cuts a tapered thread - reversing it destroys this. The socket starts to tighten on the taper as it reaches the end of the thread.
Some electricians would reverse the die when cutting the long running thread of 'running coupler'.
Some electricians would reverse the die when cutting the long running thread of 'running coupler'.
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