Testing heating elements

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Hi
Posted a while back about a faulty storage heater. I've replaced the thermostat and cut off, but it's still not working.

I tested with a multimeter, there's power going into the control module (both peak and off peak supplies), but I can't get a reading on the cables that attach to the off peak elements out of the control module.

Presumably this means there's power going into the module, but nothing coming out, therefore faulty control module?

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How are you measuring the elements? What range on your meter?
 
Same setting to check power to the control module. Should I be using a different setting?

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Hi
Posted a while back about a faulty storage heater. I've replaced the thermostat and cut off, but it's still not working.

It is a waste of money and time to randomly replace items when you have not ascertained they are faulty.
 
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I keep seeing you repeating this rather unhelpful statement, but don't notice you coming forward with any positive diagnostic suggestions.
 
I keep seeing you repeating this rather unhelpful statement, but don't notice you coming forward with any positive diagnostic suggestions.

Well perhaps people will learn not to needlessly waste money.

He could have tested the thermostat and cut off with his meter rather than replacing then needlessly. The control module needs investigating next. Could simply be poor connections couldn't it?
 
Well if you knew how to do it, why didn't you make these suggestions before? Afterwards is totally pointless and will just get people's backs up. Or is that what you are aiming for?
 
This is just a follow up to the original thread, where the OP was asking for advice how to proceed.
You always come up with these snide unhelpful comments as though you were really worried how another person spends their money. Actually it's none of your business.
 
Thanks for the replies. When it first failed I didn't have my multimeter, it was at a property I'm working on in another part of the country and wasn't getting it back anytime soon, didn't want to buy another just for this and wanted to get this fixed asap as it's winter. New stat was only £17 so thought it was worth a go, as they are quite a common fault on these.

Anyway, stat replaced but it's still not heating up overnight. There's off peak power to the control module, but no reading out to the elements, so I suspect failed control module (£110). I'll do a continuity test on the elements, what setting is that on this multimeter (above), the one at 5 o'clock position? Or what else can I do go test control module functionality? I looked at the connections, all appear to be ok.

Found this on a other forum, same heater same problem. Control modules at fault & replaced..

https://talk.electricianforum.co.uk/topic/31722-dimplex-duo-heat-storage-heater-faults/
 
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Continuity uses the OHMS setting, this looks like between 6 and 9 oclock on your meter
The 200 setting i quess will do

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Thanks. Set the meter to that, applied points to the cables attached to heating elements. Getting a reading of 22-23 in all 3 elements.


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Not sure how your heaters wired as it has a control module, but with a BASIC heater all 3 elements are in parallel, therefore all 3 readings would be the same with the elements connected.
I would suggest pulling 1 wire of each element then testing through the element terminals, the chances of all 3 elements failing is slim, i would say their not the problem.
If you know the total wattage of the heater and it has 3 elements, then simple ohms law will give you the expected ohm reading of each element
 
Thanks. Set the meter to that, applied points to the cables attached to heating elements. Getting a reading of 22-23 in all 3 elements.
Not sure how your heaters wired as it has a control module, but with a BASIC heater all 3 elements are in parallel, therefore all 3 readings would be the same with the elements connected..... If you know the total wattage of the heater and it has 3 elements, then simple ohms law will give you the expected ohm reading of each element
If what is being said is that he's getting a reading of about 22Ω with all three elements in parallel, that would seemingly equate to a total power of ~2.4 kW (at 230V), which sounds fairly credible.

Kind Regards, John
 
If what is being said is that he's getting a reading of about 22Ω with all three elements in parallel, that would seemingly equate to a total power of ~2.4 kW (at 230V), which sounds fairly credible.

Kind Regards, John
John, your good at maths, what if one element was open circuit what reading would he get.
 

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