Update: Magnetic central heating filter worth it or just flush system with Sentinel X800?

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Been doing minor work to my Central heating system consisting of replacing one single radiator for a double one (same width and height) along with refitting a another poorly fitted radiator which brackets were loose and wonky.

When I drained the radiators, small black particles came out what are magnetic:

Black particles:



My System is a modern Vaillent EcoTech Plus 937 boiler along with 10 radiators, three of which are reused old ones from when I first moved in, the rest of which are a few years old.

My question is; in addition to me flushing my system with Sentinel X800 followed by using the Sentinel X100 Inhibitor what I shall do in the next couple of days, is it also worth fitting one of these magnetic filters? (i.e. Fernon TF1 Total Filter, etc...)

Baring in mind that these magnetic filters have become more popular over the recent years, are they really worth it or are they just a marketing gimmick?

Regards: Elliott
 
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I'd avoid the TF1 it will leak at some stage.
My preferred filter is the spirotech MB3

I'd also avoid x800 unless u are using a proper power flush machine.
If x800 is not 100% removed it can cause issues with sticking pumps.
 
I'd also avoid x800 unless u are using a proper power flush machine.

So what would you recommended, I ideally want to put some cleaner in the system, let it run for a few hours and then fully drain and refill the system before finally adding the inhibitor. Or is it best to let a slow acting cleaner work over several weeks and use something like X400 rather than trying to clean it quickly without a power flush machine?

I'd avoid the TF1 it will leak at some stage.
My preferred filter is the spirotech MB3

I was only using the TF1 as an example; never had a magnetic filter before so don't know if it's worth it. I have a unused radiator point in my kitchen (15mm supply & return) for a radiator that was designed in but never fitted, could I attach a magnetic filter here or does it need to go as close to the boiler flow return as possible?
 
U want the filter on the return pipe ideally as close as possible to the boiler.

I use fernox f5
 
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If x800 is not 100% removed it can cause issues with sticking pumps.

I guess it not easy to remove then without a power flushing machine. Simply draining and refilling a couple of times will not work I guess.

I use fernox f5

Thank's for your opinion; doubt many others will be on here on New years day to give their view.

U want the filter on the return pipe ideally as close as possible to the boiler.

That makes sense to have it on the return before the boilers heat exchanger, but is it really worth it once I have cleaned and inhibited the system. After all my old CH system at my old house with 18 radiators what was un-vented did not have a magnetic filter, and if it was that important, then surely one would have been fitted when my boiler was installed 3 years ago.
 
Entirely up to u.
I fit one on every boiler I install.
They are not expensive and are easy to install
 
I cleaned out my system a couple of years ago using Sentinel x400 and then fitted the Spirotech MB3 before refilling. The Spirotech MB3 may not be as effective as the Magnaclean but it is a solid piece of kit.

I drain the filter twice a year (and top up the FE tank with a small shot of inhibitor once a year) and on each drain I get a small but lessening amount of rust. In other words you'll never get 100% of the rust out by manual cleaning, the filter is a good insurance to keep the rust from building up elsewhere that may cause damage or blockages.
 
Update; Just ordered the Spirotech MB3 along with the Fernox Express F5 cleaner & F1 Protector from JTM Plumbing.
 
If the system is really clean then a magnetic filter is not necessary. After all they have only been popular for the last 10 years or so.

I have found that many installers don't do a proper cleaning job and just rely on the magnetic filter to do the job.

It is only the boilers with plate heat exchangers which are very susceptible to dirt in the system.

Tony
 
Does any rad manufacturer make rads that don't rust internally, say like a zinc coating or something similar inside?
 
Does any rad manufacturer make rads that don't rust internally, say like a zinc coating or something similar inside?

Only iron/ferrous based radiators rust :sneaky: (rust is iron oxide); now for materials that don't oxidise (aka rust), Try a internally gold plated radiator, or a platinum one perhaps. :D

For a more realistic and oxidizing resistant metal, then stainless steel or titanium coated I guess.
 
Does any rad manufacturer make rads that don't rust internally, say like a zinc coating or something similar inside?

Only iron/ferrous based radiators rust :sneaky: (rust is iron oxide); now for materials that don't oxidise (aka rust), Try a internally gold plated radiator, or a platinum one perhaps. :D

For a more realistic and oxidizing resistant metal, then stainless steel or titanium coated I guess.
Gold plate, Pfft...All my rads are 18 carat solid gold. :D
 
there are of course other particles in the heating water that are not magnetic, so won't be stuck to your magnet. Power flush system when needed.
 
there are of course other particles in the heating water that are not magnetic, so won't be stuck to your magnet.

And why would I think non magnetic particles would be attracted by a magnet!? :rolleyes: I guess products like the Spirotech MB3 are good in the long run over many years; yes my system is relatively new at the moment with only 3 old radiators; but it wont be new any more in 10 years time or so.

On a side note, how often do you lot come across direct central heating systems these days, they must be pretty rare. I am talking about the type where the hot water that is drawn of from the HW tank is the same water as circulated and heated by the boiler? Did these systems ever have radiators connected up to them?, Limescale must have been a real issue with the water constantly being replaced?
 

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